'98 Ford Windstar Codes P0340,P0171,P0174

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  #1  
Old 11-21-06, 04:28 PM
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'98 Ford Windstar Codes P0340,P0171,P0174

1998 Ford Windstar codes read at Inspection Station .
OBD System Diagnostic Results, Emisions Failure

Codes Read; P0340, P0171, P0174

MIL Command Status_ FAIL
Overall OBD System Result_FAIL

Anybody know what these codes reference ?
Car does run like garbage and engine light is on steady.

Thanks in advance,

Mackey.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-21-06, 05:46 PM
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Yah, the 171 and 174 mean you are running real lean left and right bank

It's the 340 that's the doozy
The van's computer can't read the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP)
Maybe it's skunked, maybe a loose wire
The code just says it's a problem in the circuit, not whether it's wiring or a damaged sensor shield or what

It's best to fix the CMP problem first, then if the lean readings still exist, tackle them
 
  #3  
Old 11-21-06, 06:11 PM
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Dumb question but where is the cam sensor located on this motor ?
Is the cam sensor located on top of the timing chain cover about where a distributor use to mount ?
It's a 3.8 L V6
 

Last edited by Mackey; 11-21-06 at 08:48 PM.
  #4  
Old 11-22-06, 06:40 AM
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Here you go:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/35/d1/0900823d801d35d1.jsp
 
  #5  
Old 11-22-06, 01:38 PM
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My repair manual doesn't show code 0340. But the other 2 codes are saying that fuel too lean (bank 1 and bank 2).
I have a 00' Windstar and code 171, 174 also came up when doing the scan.... please keep me posted on the repairs.

Duran
 
  #6  
Old 11-22-06, 06:09 PM
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171-174 are lean codes.........Check the PCV lines........(Plastic tubes) At the ends you'll find rubber "elbows" to connect to the intake...........I'll almost guarantee ya one them is ruptured and collapsed, this is a NOTORIOUS Ford fault
The cam sensor is where the distrib USED to be. Take the sensor off and see if the "flag" running around in the driver is intact...........75% of the time it won't be.........and they often squeak like a serp belt and can drive an inexperienced tech to drink finding the source of the noise
 
  #7  
Old 11-22-06, 06:43 PM
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Towguy, wrench, slickshift and deestylez,
I am amazed at all of the TOP NOTCH advice and information I have received here.
The AutoZone Repair website was excellent !
I am going to do the testing and mechanicals on it on Friday
being tomorrow is Thanksgiving and I do have a backup car (2001 Malibu that also needs help).

I will get back with the results of the repair.

Have a GREAT Thanksgiving !

Mack.
 
  #8  
Old 11-24-06, 06:32 PM
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Can I just replace the sensor or should I replace the syncro with the sensor.
The flag is still intack on the syncro.
The instructions say to get #1 cyl at TDC. First of all where is the timing plate and timing mark located ( don't see it down there) and where is #1 cyl. Near the radiator or against the firewall ?
I'm no stranger to replacing distributors so in theory I shouldn't have a problem replacing the syncro, right ?
Are there any other pitfalls I should know about before doing this job ?
 
  #9  
Old 11-25-06, 05:22 AM
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If the synchro is quiet and intact all you need do is replace the senor up top. There's a tool set for installing synchros but I've never had a problem dropping one in by simply observing where the flag is..........or was.........
 
  #10  
Old 11-29-06, 06:57 PM
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OK, I replaced the camshaft pos sensor and Wrench47 you were right about the elbows. It was the elbow on top of the intake plenum that was bad the other ones were OK.

The flag in the syncro was OK but I thought I should replace it for good measure anyway until I realized it wouldn't clear the fuel rail so I put it back together replacing only the sensor.

How much difficulty is involved in removing the fuel rail ?
Do I have to remove the intake plenum ?"
I'm affraid I will open up a can of worms if I upset that fuel rail and plenum.

After all of that my "service engine soon" light came back on.
I did disconnect the battery and it cleared the light but it came back on again.

The engine runs much better and the exhaust smells much better but I still have a sputter to it.

Any other suggestions ?
 
  #11  
Old 11-29-06, 08:07 PM
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Remove the hold down screws and ever so gently pry the rail up with a large screwdriver.........I like using STP(Stay Together Please?????) when I reassemble o-rings............Makes em drop into place much easier with less chance of pinching...........
Do you know which code keeps returning????? If you replaced that perforated elbow we should be down to one.........
 
  #12  
Old 12-02-06, 11:00 AM
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Still has the 340 code

The 171 and 174 codes are gone (CAUSE_ruptured vacuum elbow on intake plenum) but the the 340 code ( cam shaft position sensor) keeps coming back.
I replaced the cam shaft pos sensor and the the code just won't clear.
What else could be causing this ?

I did buy a re-manufactured syncro and it had a re-manufactured sensor with it. I ONLY replaced the sensor not the syncro. And it did run better.
Could the re-mftrd sensor be the problem or could it be that I did not replace the syncro causing the 340 ( I'm not convinced on the syncro) but I do have doubts about the re-mftd cam shaft position sensor.

I could really use some with this.

What are your thoughts ?
 

Last edited by Mackey; 12-02-06 at 11:19 AM.
  #13  
Old 12-02-06, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by slickshift View Post
It's the 340 that's the doozy
The van's computer can't read the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP)
Maybe it's skunked, maybe a loose wire

The code just says it's a problem in the circuit, not whether it's wiring or a damaged sensor shield or what
I'm reasonably sure I have a test for that around here someplace
I'll post it up if I find it before someone else answers
I'll have to find it first
(I don't want to go by my memory)

But before I scrounge that up...how many on/off cycles have you run through on the "new" sensor?
 
  #14  
Old 12-02-06, 04:07 PM
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I'm not familiar with this engine. Does it have an egr valve, or are egr gases regulated via a VCT (variable cam timing) solenoid at the exhaust cam?

I once had a 340 code on my ZX2, which - after replacing the cam position sensor - was attributed to using too thick an oil (20W-50 in the summer). This precluded proper operation of the VCT solenoid and kept tripping the code. After some research, I found this is a common problem on these engines, and the Code 340 can appear if the engine is sludged (neglected oil maintenance) or if too thick an oil was used, often resulting in needless expensive repairs to the uninitiated. Do you think this situation can apply to your engine?
 

Last edited by Kestas; 12-02-06 at 04:46 PM.
  #15  
Old 12-02-06, 05:24 PM
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I've allways regulary changed the oil and the original owner.
The van has just over 150,000 miles so at this point anything is possible.
I use 10W 30 oil. I do know it is supposed to use 5w 30.
 
  #16  
Old 12-02-06, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mackey View Post
I... the original owner.
The van has just over 150,000 miles ...

When was the last time the plug wires were changed?
 
  #17  
Old 12-02-06, 08:36 PM
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I replaced the ignition wires with OEM wires.
They cost about $ 90.00 but there worth every penny.

Thank you everyone for your help !

To recap:
The P0171 and PO174 codes ( left and right bank too lean) were fixed by replacing the ruptured vacuum elbow on the intake plenum.

The P0340 code( bad camshaft position sensor) was fixed by replacing the aftermarket sparkplug wires with OEM wires.

Apparently the signal from the CMP sensor was receiving interference noise from the crappy sparksplug wires tripping the P0340 code.

I hope my experience helps others.

Mackey.

Thanks for the update
Glad you fixed the problem
 

Last edited by the_tow_guy; 12-07-06 at 05:47 AM. Reason: Merged with original post
  #18  
Old 12-07-06, 05:53 AM
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I moved your post to the original thread so we can see the history all at once.

Note to slick: I goofed and think your last reply went away, sorry!
 
  #19  
Old 12-07-06, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mackey View Post
Apparently the signal from the CMP sensor was receiving interference noise from the crappy sparksplug wires tripping the P0340 code.

I hope my experience helps others.
This statement actually helped me a couple days ago. I was getting codes from my car. Rather than replacing sensors, I remembered your statement, and found the wires from these sensors were running alongside the bundle of spark wires. I separated the two and problem is solved!
 
  #20  
Old 12-07-06, 12:29 PM
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Amazing what a little stray high voltage can do roaming around under the hood AND how often it is overlooked in the troubleshooting.
 
  #21  
Old 12-07-06, 02:31 PM
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The EEC-IV computers are very sensitive to electronic parts that way
That's why I mentioned the wires, and recommend the OEM ignition parts for these guys

Thanks for the update Mackey
Glad you fixed your problem!
 
  #22  
Old 12-07-06, 04:15 PM
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I'm grateful for these forums.
Before the internet age this correspondence could not be possible.

Special thanks to Slickshift and Wrench47

Technology is king !
 
  #23  
Old 12-09-06, 03:02 PM
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Notes on replacing syncro shaft

In order to remove the syncro shaft on a 3.8L V6( formerly the distributor shaft) the fuel rail that supplies the left bank injectors ( or the side against the firewall) must be seperated and moved out of the way. To do this I had to remove the intake plenum to get to move the fuel rail out of the way.
I shreaded my hands trying to remove all of the brackets and vacuum hoses located on the back of the intake plenum.
I also had to buy a fuel line disconnect tool to seperate the fuel tube.
Word of Caution: De-pressureize the fuel system before seperating the fuel supply tube and disconnect the battery. It looks like a tire valve stem located under the right side of the intake plenum ( or front side ).
After lifting up the fuel supply rail the syncro can be completely removed but be sure to mark were the syncro and the flag are BEFORE you remove the syncro shaft !
When lifting out the syncro shaft their will be a 8" long, shaft exstention attatched to the bottom of the syncro shaft. It drives the oil pump.
Remove the exstension shaft and snap it in to the new syncro shaft.
Then be sure the new syncro shaft and flag locks back in exactly where the old one was or your you'll be looking to line up #1 clyinder and timing plate marks with the crank pulley.
I hope this helps for the next guy.
P.S. After replacing syncro shaft and sensor the PO340 code was still there.
Now go back and read post #17. the posts are out of order.
 

Last edited by Mackey; 12-23-06 at 08:48 PM.
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