What do you think?

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-08-06, 08:49 AM
TheOaf's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 55
What do you think?

Ok time for quiz the mechanic. I have a 92 Chrysler 5th Ave with a 3.8L SO on my way to work today the check engine light came on and then the digital battery guage that usually reads over 3/4 was at the dirt bottom and the battery was flashing. I also noticed that my window when I rolled it down (power window) it seemed to go slowly. I got to work and shut off the car and restarted it and the battery guage was at about 1/2 but check engine light still on. 2 1/2 hrs later went back out and it started right up with no problems, check engine light still on but did not seem to crank hard or anything. Got down to about 2 degrees last night and it was 10 when I started her up this morning. So I am trying to decide weather my battery is going or alternator. I don't have a volt meter and the blower fan seemed to run a bit slow as well. So what does everyone think I should do?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-08-06, 09:16 AM
the_tow_guy's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SW Fla USA
Posts: 11,575
I would suspect the alternator, but I would have it scanned to see what codes come up. Pretty easy to have the charging system checked; a lot of places will do it for free.

Tow Guy grew up in Waukesha County - Pewaukee.
 
  #3  
Old 12-08-06, 09:23 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Michigan
Posts: 923
I believe the codes from that car can be read from the driver's seat. Insert the key into the ignition, turn the key ON (no start) - OFF - ON - OFF - ON (leave on). The check engine light should start flashing giving you a series of two-digit codes, ending with 55 (end of message). Count the pulses. Report back what the codes are.
 
  #4  
Old 12-08-06, 09:26 AM
the_tow_guy's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SW Fla USA
Posts: 11,575
Thanks for that info, Kestas; I couldn't remember how the heck you self-read that vintage.
 
  #5  
Old 12-08-06, 10:13 AM
TheOaf's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 55
well I don't know if you meant codes on the diagnostic machine (which I don't have available) but I did the on/off/on etc thing and now my overhead console (which has not worked for about a year) suddenly works so that is a plus. Battery guage is still at about half and still started right up. My overhead console said "Service Reminder" so that must be check engine light which I could care less about I guess I was more concerned with the battery guage, I will stop at Autozone after work and have them test the battery for me.
 
  #6  
Old 12-08-06, 12:09 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Livonia, Michigan
Posts: 923
I double-checked. Using the key ON-OFF method, either the CHECK ENGINE light or POWER LOSS light should start flashing.
 
  #7  
Old 12-08-06, 05:04 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Jersey
Posts: 526
First start by cleaning the battery terminals and see if your batt gauge goes up.
Then buy a cheap Digital Volt Meter ( DMM) at Radio Shack for about 12 bucks.

Set the meter on VOLTS and put the black lead on the negative battery clamp and the red lead on the positive clamp with the engine running.
You should read about 13 to 15 volts no less, then put the leads on the battery posts. You should have the same readings.

Shut the car off and do the same test, you should have about 12 to 12.5 volts no less.

If you get lower than 13 volts with engine running or the same reading with engine on or off, you most likely have a bad altenator ( not charging).

If you get 13 volts or higher with the engine running and lower than 12 volts with it off, your battery is most likely bad.
How old is your battery ? If it is about 4 years old you should replace it anyway or it is guarrenteed to leave you stranded when you need it most !
 
  #8  
Old 12-11-06, 12:38 PM
TheOaf's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 55
so I put a new alternator in which was a nightmare and when I connected the neg. terminal I got a lot of sparks, a popping sound, some smoke and the alternator was hot hot hot. So I have no 12 volt going to the alternator so now I have to trace the short somewhere, this sucks.
 
  #9  
Old 12-18-06, 10:19 AM
TheOaf's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 55
well the nightmare is finally over, the spark and light show was from the defective alternator that they sold me which ended up blowing out my fusable link. The wonderful people at Autozone did not test the alt before they sold it to me. So I ended up replacing everything including the fuse link and all is good now but man oh man what a project that was, thanks for all the suggestions though.
 
  #10  
Old 12-18-06, 11:23 AM
the_tow_guy's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SW Fla USA
Posts: 11,575
Yow, got lucky on that one, Oaf!
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes