Dakota HVAC

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Old 12-29-06, 03:41 AM
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Dakota HVAC

96 Dodge Dakota, 5.2, auto, 4wd & ac. Looking for a complete HVAC wiring diagram. Clutch is not pulling in and no power to the clutch itself. Fuse is good as is switch. Haynes manual is useless other than wiring from fuse to switch. I know there's a relay in there somewhere but will need the electrical schematic to fully troubleshoot. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 12-29-06, 05:52 AM
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Thanks, but found the schematics at autozone. If anyone has experienced the same problem though, I'd like to hear what you found.....would prob save me a lot of time!
 
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Old 12-29-06, 02:13 PM
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A/c

1st, You need a set of A/C gauges and check for proper refrigerant pressure's. Low or no pressure while not activate the low pressure / cycling switch and high pressure (less likely) will shut the high pressure switch off..

If pressure is OK... then test pressure switchs / Electricail system.

If pressure is low, need to find and repair leak.

Important Note; Only Certified Technicians should handle A/C refrigerant.

David
 
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Old 01-01-07, 04:17 AM
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Thanks for the reply DKM....I have gauges and I am certified. It appears the low pressure switch is bad....opening early (higher pressure). What pressure is the low press switch supposed to open at? Would you know if the switch is schradered or will I have to evacuate before replacing? Appreciate your response(s)!
 
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Old 01-01-07, 12:38 PM
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Many chrysler products fromthe mid 90's dont use a low pressure switch, but rather a 3 wire "Resistance " sensor.Theyre usually part of a hose or manifold and are not replaceable by themselves. Make sure of what type of switch you have , as they are very fragile and can be quite costly.
 
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Old 01-02-07, 03:16 AM
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The switch is definitely a low-pressure switch - 2 wire. Roamed throughout the sites yesterday trying to find the specifications of the switch but no luck. My switch is breaking (open) at about 30 psi that I feel is too early. AC pressures are good and everything checks out except the LP switch...still looking for the low-pressure cut-off if anybody knows. Thanks!
 
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Old 01-02-07, 10:04 AM
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I Don't know Exactly, but it should be around 17-20 psi. 30psi is definetly to high. Useally the LP switch works corretly or not at all. What is the high pressure reading??? What is the ambient temp? Could be High pressurecut off. I usally try jumping the low pressue swith (Paper clip) and recheck pressures to make sure there is not a restriction or another fault in system. If everything test OK still with ambient temp of at least 68 F, I'd renew LP Switch.
 
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Old 01-02-07, 10:36 AM
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Thanks DKM....the 17-20 psi sounds about right from what I was figuring and I agree 30 psi is way too high. The temp in my garage yesterday was about 70'F and the high pressure was about 150-165 psi. I ran it for about 30 minutes with the LP switch by-passed and the pressures seemed good and was cooling very well. The pressures seemed to stabilize at 30/150 after running for awhile (AND provided I could keep her from opening the garage door every ten minutes or so letting all my heat out!). One last question: is the switch protected by a schrader or will I have to evacuate? Thanks for all your help!
 
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Old 01-02-07, 10:59 AM
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Not Sure

[QUOTE=lhewitt;1100228] One last question: is the switch protected by a schrader or will I have to evacuate? /QUOTE]

Sorry, It should have scharer valve, but I'm Not sure. Been a while since I've done one on a Dodge. Recommend get new vavle and look at it. I could tell that way. If you still can't tell, error on safety and evac system.
David
 
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Old 01-04-07, 09:10 AM
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The LP switch solved the problem....new switch breaks at 21 psi and yes, it is shradered. Thanks, especially to DKM, for the assistance. Now, if it were only warmer outside!
 
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