My 1994 Buick

I need some help here guys!!! I have a 1994 buick Century custom with a 6 cylinder, and as I was driving I noticed my temp gauge was starting to show on the hot side, never went into red, and the light never came on. I have owned this car for 5 years now and it has 85,000 miles on it. I have checked the hoses and clamps and I have not leaks anywhere. I drive this car back and forth to work, about 15 miles maybe so if there is a problem it maybe escelating now? Anyway, I am not mechanicaly smart but I cannot locate my thermostat housing I have read it is on the engine side where the upper radiator hose is at? The radiator has not been drained since I have had it so I thought it was time to change it anyway, but they say if you are going to do that then change the thermostat as well? It does not get hot on the highway, but does when I am stopping and going alot in traffic. I am just trying to catch something early before it does overheat on me. I also read that the heater has something to do with the radiator? I noteced the other day it took alot longer to warm up than usual and our weather in Gerogia is only in the 50's can you all help me first pinpoint what it might be, and then tell me where my thermostate is located so that I can do this right. thanks

 

If you follow the uppermost hose from the radiator to the engine, the thermostat will be under that housing. Drain the old coolant by opening the petcock at the bottom of the radiator. You will need a new thermostat, a gasket, and some waterproof gasket sealant. Pay close attention to the way the old thermostat comes out and orient the new one the same way. Refill with a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and distilled water. Fill over several minutes and allow the radiator to burp as much as it will. Replace the radiator cap and start the engine. When the temp guage approaches normal operating range, the upper hose will begin to get warm as the thermostat opens and water begins to flow to the radiator. Check for leaks. Make sure your coolant resevoire is filled to the normal mark and keep an eye on it for several days. Add more 50/50 fluid as necessary as the heating and cooling cycles expel more air from the system. Check it again after a week to be sure.

 

Welcome to the Forums!

Do what jmm706 states, but I need to add something. Check your oil as well. If the oil seems milky, then you have a more serious issue at hand. You do not want anti-freeze in your oil.

 

If you can run your car on the highway and it doesn't get hot then you don't have a thermostat or radiator prob. If you only have problems in slow moving traffic, then most probably your radiator fan is not working. To check this start your car and let it run. Your radiator fan should not come on till it gets to about 220 degrees farinhieght, so it may take a while for it to come on. The fan should come on before the guage starts reading hot. If you have air cond. &it works turn it on , your fan should come on then. If not remove the plug in at your fan,check for power & ground at your plug in. If you have power & ground you need a new rad. fan motor, which is not uncommon for older GM products. MAXCHEVY WORKIN' ON CARS SINCE 1972

 

thanks for the advice it looks like I may need to replace my fan motor. I went to the local auto store and the guy there told me it could also be a relay switch or a sensor but would the check engine light come on if it was a sensor? I am trying to pin point it because it looks like the motor itself is $148 for the push or pull motor? I am not sure which one? Any advice as to how to check what it could be if it is possibly a sensor or relay. Thanks

 

You can test the fan by disconnecting the plug at the fan.

Then get yourself two insultated wires-

Attach two of the wires to the plug, and connect the other ends to the battery. If the fans turn on, your fan is fine.

 

If your A/C works, turn it on...........the fan should run when the compressor kicks in...........If it works thusly, you know that A)the fan is OK B) the relay is OK C) the ECM is capable of giving ground and turning ON the relay........If the fan DOESN'T come on.........then it's voltage checks at the fan itself.......then back to the relay. There should be 12 volts at one of the four terms all the time, 12 at another with IGN ON......One goes to ground (ECM) the other to the fan The 2 thick wires run the fan.....the thinner ones are the trigger wires that turn on the relay