92 Olds Achieva

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  #1  
Old 01-18-07, 01:27 PM
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Question 92 Olds Achieva

92 Achieva 2.3 quad 3 speed auto, 107,000miles. car was stalling, poor accelerating, wouldn't idle. I replaced the plugs, gapped at .035 replaced the fuel filter, vaccum hoses to everything I could find. Now car starts ok, but the idle is rough. At 2000 rpm, it's fine. Jumpered the data link connector, and I get a 12 code. Where do I go from here. What is the 12 code telling me?
Any help is appreciated, Jerry
 
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Old 01-18-07, 02:19 PM
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You will always get a code 12 when reading OBD1 codes. You will get the 12, then any trouble codes that might be stored will be after the 12.

Have you checked your timing?
 
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Old 01-18-07, 08:27 PM
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92 achieva

Thanks Mark, and no I haven't checked the timing, on these computer cars, I'm not even sure how to do it. I have a Haynes manual, hopefully, it will tell me how.. I don't know if it's flooding or missing at idle, any ideas??? Thanks, Jerry
 
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Old 01-19-07, 04:31 AM
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Probably wouldn't hurt to run some injector cleaner through it and even some Heet (aka dry gas) in the event it is a dirty injector or some water in the tank. Also I would try cleaning the throttle plate and surrounding intake throat area; carb cleaner and a toothbroush works good.

Don't think you can adjust the timing on a 2.3.
 
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Old 01-19-07, 01:05 PM
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92 Olds Achieva

Thanks Tow Guy, I assume I just dump the injector cleanor in the gas tank, or is there a better way to do it? Will the cleaner dislodge all the gunk in the tank and clog the fuel filter? I'm guessing the throttle body is where the air filter housing connects to the intake on the engine, correct? Working on computer cars is a new experience for me. I'm used to the points/carb motors, so please excuse my many questions. As I'm not getting any codes other than code 12, is it reasonanble to assume the sensors are working properly? Thanks again, Jerry
 
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Old 01-19-07, 05:45 PM
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In the tank, I wouldn't worry about it knocking stuff loose. For the throttle plate, locate where the throttle cable connects to the intake. Remove the rubber/plastic duct right next to it and you'll see the throttle plate, a round disk. Open throttle fully (engine off). Blast the crud on both sides of the plate with the carb cleaner and give it and the surrounding inside of the intake throat a scrubbing with the toothbrush. Final blast of cleaner. Release throttle and connect ductwork. Start up and see if any difference.

As to the sensors, welllllllll maybe. Would be better if there WERE codes which can give you a starting point. The absence of codes, THEORETICALLY, means they're all working, but it's not a 100% certainty. As HotinOKC says, the code 12 is just a code to tell you the computer is alive and well. If you had codes it would go 12 - XX - XX - 12, the two "XX"'s being trouble codes.

On a different thought, are you losing any coolant, i.e. needing to top off the reservoir very often? Car's old enough to have a gasket issue.
 
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Old 01-20-07, 10:10 PM
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92 Olds Achieva

Towguy, today I managed to get to the throttle body and cleaned the plate and surrounding area with carb cleaner and a rag.. It was fairly dirty with black gunk, After reassembly, I got it started, but it still won't idle well, it goes down to 500 rpm or less and I have to throttle it manually to keep it running. Took another code reading, and still got a 12 code. I'm missing something, I just don't know what? Should I take a compression check? I occasionaly have to add water to tank. I think I will pull plugs again to see if they are wet or dry. The car has IDI ignition system, really different then anything I've ever tinkered with. I appreciate everyones help with this. Jerry
 
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Old 01-20-07, 10:42 PM
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Jerry, for the injector cleaner to have a chance to work you will have to burn off at least one tank of fuel that is if it is dirty injector/injectors and also to get rid of water in the gas tank by using the gas dry. If by the time you have burned of that tank of fuel and no improvement the injector may and I say may have internal problems if it is the injector (Throttle body). If you still have the problem after that tank of fuel do a compression check just to rule out the combustion chambers.
 
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Old 01-21-07, 01:29 AM
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what exactly is the car doing now hard to tell from your original post if replacing the plugs and vacum lines helped any at all, is it still running rough? how about acceleration does it accelerate ok now?
injectors do not fail very often and on many models never need cleaning.
if its still running rough maybe you should pull the plugs and see if you can tell wich cylinders are not hitting as they will probably be wet with gas or might even be black if you do find you have one or more cylinders not hitting would probably look into the ignition system a little better to see if that may be where the problem is.
 
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Old 01-21-07, 06:53 AM
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Or you might find a plug that is sparkling white like it had been steam-cleaned indicating a possible head gasket problem. How often and how much coolant (you said water, but you should use coolant or over time you could end up with very little protection in the cooling system) do you have to add?
 
  #11  
Old 01-24-07, 11:03 AM
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Well Guys, I think I found the problem, a blown head gasket. cyls 1&4 are 180lbs and cyls 2&3 are 80 lbs. Looks like it's time to junk it as it isn't worth the price of repair. Many thanks to all that took the time to help me, you guys are good. Jerry
 
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Old 01-24-07, 09:15 PM
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Tough break. Sorry to hear that.
Another good way to see if the head gasket is bad is pop off the coolant overflow/resivoir cap and see if bubbles are coming up.
Or smell the exhaust for a sweet syrupy smell.
Have you considered doing the head gasket yourself ?
It's just a lot of labor not rocket science or a beating heart I like to say.
Parts will probably cost you about $ 100.00 if the head isn't craked.
If you do decide to do it yourself have the head checked at your local parts house.
That's what this forum is all about. (Doityourself)
But if you don't, that's OK to.
 
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