Check Engine light for '99 Toyota 4-Runner

Hi, I am a new member and this is my first post. I have a 1999 Toyota 4-Runner w/ 123K miles. Last year it failed a smog test and had transmission problems which were costly but I got fixed.

Recently I started to feel the same transmission problems slowly coming about such as the car 'revving' when I don't press the gas pedal and it moves forward. Last year it got so bad that it would make a loud noise and burn fuel as if I was pushing down on the pedal full force yet breaked so not moving and would not go fast so obviously it failed the smog test but as I said I had it fixed.

Now I am noticing the early stages of this same problem coming about. Then two weeks ago the 'check engine' light came on. I had the oil changed in case it was due to that and they did the scan thing and said the code was 1135 but didn't know what it stood for as their book only reported the newer models that have 3 numerical codes.

Does anyone know what 1135 stands for? Also if you know what the other problem I am experiencing is and if it is related to it? My fuel efficiency has gotten really really bad and I can smell fuel like odors while driving. I just am hating my car at this point and know a lot of money is going to go into it before I can sell it and still have 510/month payments on it

 

Toyota OBD-II Trouble Codes

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Toyota Specific Trouble Codes:

Code ...... Description
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P1135 | Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response. (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

 

Ok thanks. I guess I'll just take it to a mechanic but I'm scared to since I don't understand what the problem is exactly especially the heater circuit response. Hope they don't rip me off, what a nightmare, I hate dealing with car trouble.

 

That's a O2 sensor. It may be that bank one sensor or something else causing it to report trouble.

 

Well I had a great idea as I was waking up this morning, which is to take it to the shop that fixed it when it failed the smog test last year. At least they were honest so I don't have to go risking a new mechanic shop which has been my fear. I'm filling up the tank almost every 3 days at $3.03/gallon so I get wait to get rid of this baby as much as I liked it back when it was at 60K miles on it when I bought it.

 

I would not dump it so fast. It might cost a few bucks at first but dont give up. Here is what I would do replace the sensor about 120 bucks. Then look for reasons why it failed in the first place. My bet is all you need is a good tune up. How long has it been since plugs were changed,new air filter, butterfly valve cleaned etc. The sensor fails because it gets conaminated with raw fuel. I really think a good tune up is required. If you keep going and just replace the sensor it will also fail in a few months. Not only that your cataletic convertor will have a melt down and those are really not cheap.

 

I wonder if I should just get a tune up first then and if that will take care of the problem. I know the light is not on in error - i smell a lot of fuel while driving and the car seems to accelerate without my pressing on the gas pedal, and it's getting worse and worse to the point I am trying to avoid additional avoidable driving until I figure out how to take care of the problem.

Another problem it has is that it 'struggles' to drive uphill. I usually can't get it to go faster than 50mph and stopped using the toll road because it gets steep and the car is too slow for the traffic.

I've never gotten a tune up for the car before, I've always thought all you have to do is get oil changes so maybe I should look into it. It's just that I have had so many really bad experiences with taking my car in, always ending up causing me a fortune so I avoid taking it in like the plague unless it is at the same oil changing place I've taken it for years where the guys don't hassle me or rip me off but they're limited to doing oil changes, fluids, checking the tire pressure and replacing my window wipers.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Bank one sensor one is the forward O2 on the side that has #1 cyl........The forward O2's can ALSO have an adverse effect on fuel economy.........You may kill two birds with one stone (er...........One O2 ????)....and a good tune up wouldn't hurt either........

 

Sorry to sound stupid but what is an O2 (is that a zero 2 or the letter O?)
And what does cyl stand for?
Hope you're right, so I go to the mechanic sounding informed. Thanks!

 

O2 is an oxygen sensor..........Your vehicle probably has 4 2 in front of the catalytic convertors 2 behind them............When you talk to your mechanic, refer to them as "O2's".........This'll make him think you're really into this stuff and maybe know more thanhe does..............????

 

Thanks!! I feel prepared to take it in and face the music now!

 

Sorry there is more then oil changes even these days. Coolant flush transmission oil change, rear axle oil change, and some more items. Oil change is just one thing.
If you keep up on these items you will save money down the road. The saying you can pay me now or pay me later is a good one. The sad part is later will cost more and leave you broken on the side of the road.

 

I've never even heard of a coolant flush before and doubt I've ever had one since I bought the car (used but with low mileage few years back).

Going to the mechanic they always give a long expensive to-do list so I just think the oil is what's needed and go with that. Last year I had the transmission fluids replaced for close to $500 at Jiffy Lube and shortly thereafter my check engine light went on and whatever the problem was got really really bad and the car would accelerate dangerously without pressing the gas like now only much worse and failed the smog test and I had to get it fixed for a lot of money. Now I'm having the same problems so I hate taking the car in, it's hard to trust that they're doing the right thing when I know nothing about the car, also if they're charging a fair price.

I'm still procrastinating to take it in but my goal is to do it before the end of the week.

 

Go to the Toyota dealer and order a copy of the Toyota sceduled maintenance requirments for your truck. It comes with every new Toyota as a supplement to the owners manuel.. Dont let them sucker you into the dealer service schedule as they add stuff to pad there pocket book.
The Toyota one is the one you want. Or/and got to a web site of 4 runner owners kind of like this one and join it. Is your a a 4wheel drive? if so that is a higher maintenance cost truck as you will have more fluids.

I dont want to be rude but being a girl many guys will try to take advantage and even worse if you go in there not knowing anything about cars.

 

Those are great tips, thanks. And yes I am aware that being an unknowledged girl is what they are taking advantage of. The one time I talked my brother to take the car in for me a couple of years ago, they quoted a low price for something I thought was a big problem so I'm so fed up now I have contempt towards mechanics but I know it can happen in any field where people take advantage of others. I feel better venting it out.

Fortunately it is a two wheel drive but twice a mechanic insisted it was 4 wheel and tried to make me feel stupid and charged more for the oil change.

 

Sometimes a simple shot of lubricant free Electrical contact cleaner on the MAS sensor, just behind the Air box can clear up a lot of MIL light issues.

On the 99 Taco's, it's common to get a MIL code for Bank 0 or Bank 1 rich. At face value, one might think it's an injector or O2 related issue, when in fact the MAS just isn't getting a good reading.

I find this especially on vehicles where owner opt to use afternmarket oil type air filters such as the K&N. If over-oiled, the MAS sensor in the intake tube can get fouled over time. Not necessarily related, but thought I'd throw in there as a common preventative maintainance measure that cost's less than $5 to remedy.