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battery problem

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04-03-07, 02:45 PM

krbdy1

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battery problem

The battery is about 2 to 3 years old,i only drive the car from november to april...and in that time frame it doesnt get used that much..maybe 2 xs a week for short trips..heres what makes me wonder....after maybe 36 hrs of non use the battery goes dead...when i jump start it...it starts right away without having to wait....and the dash reads the battery at 14.2 volts.I do have a remote starter with alarm that cant be turned off....I believe that the starter might be going bad and over drawing power..Is there any way to test the starter or battery,so i know which one replace......thanks Russ

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04-03-07, 02:53 PM

HotxxxxxxxOKC

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It could be a bad battery, but it maybe other things as well such as the alternator.

You can have Autozone test your battery and alterator for free, but sometimes these tests are not completely accurate.

I'm not sure if they can do a load test on the battery, but this will determine how much juice your car is drawing when it is off. There will be some juice used for the alarm and clock, etc, but it will be minimal.

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Passenger Cars, Mini Vans, SUV Service and Repairs. (No Trucks)
What would cause a whirring noise and slow signal

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Marie12345 on Jul 09, 2006

Hi. I posted last week re my '90 Corsica. It was making a whirring noise, and was stalling, I'd restart and it'd go 30 feet or so, and stall, etc. Anyhow - I was thinking it was the alternator. However - the shop tested the alternator and said it was fine. They said the problem was the fuel pump, so they replaced that. I specifically mentioned to them that sometimes the turn signals seemed to get a tiny bit slower the longer they were on, and that I was wondering about the alternator, but they said no.... The alternator is fine. The car didn't make the whirring noise at all for them. The car no longer stalls. However, it still makes the whirring sound (but not constantly), and the signals still seem to get a bit slow. I got my brother to come listen to the car, and he lifted the hood and immediately said it sounded like the alternator to him. So he phoned down to the shop and said that he thought it was the alternator making the noise, but they said they had checked the alternator, and it was fine. So now I don't know what to do. I am afraid to go out of town for fear the car will quit again. What are your thoughts? How could the turn signals seem a little bit slower (not alot, but a bit) if the electrical system is fine? It just doesn't make sense to me. If the problem is not the alternator, what else could cause the whirring noise and the slow signals? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again.Read More
Passenger Cars, Mini Vans, SUV Service and Repairs. (No Trucks)
need help second opinions 91 chevy corsica 3.1

M

maddog75 on Apr 03, 2007

The car I am asking about is a 1991 Chevy Corsica with a 3.1 motor. Problem one- This car has first off had the a fluctuation of a possible over heating problem when idling. It would rise up near 210 degrees or so then once started driving would cool down back to normal. This is my father’s car as has been occurring for nearly a month now. He said it only overheated to where he had to pull over and let it cool down once. I checked it the last time it over heated, looked for leaks seen none, checked fluid level was topped off and he said it was a while since he added any coolant. I checked the fan operation and it appeared to be kicked on when it was supposed to. I checked the hoses and it seemed like heat disbursement was equal. I also checked the radiator for cold spots and felt none. I don’t know if the car has actually over heated or if my dad just pulled off because the gauge was showing it was red lining. I attempted to check it with coolant pressure tester but I didn’t have the proper adapter to check it as it is the place threaded neck style on the reservoir. One last thing the oil seems clean notice no signs of coolant in the oil or that coolant is being burned in the chamber. My second problem is the more prominent one. This occurred the day after I checked it out for it’s overheating problem. We were driving down the interstate and the vehicle just died it didn’t sputter or anything it just all of the sudden had no power, lights and everything were on. We pulled to the side of the road and it restarted right away we went an addition 10 miles or so and then it died again this time sputtering bad. Initially I pulled one of the spark plugs and checked for a strong blue spark which I was getting I also put a pen in the fuel rack check valve to check for adequate fuel pressure it seemed to be a strong pressure. I took over the wheel and keep my foot on the gas peddle the whole time as when I would let it idle it wanted to die. I was able to coast home before it died completely and wouldn’t start. I wasn’t able to look at it again until a few days latter I checked all for cylinders for good spark and was getting a good spark and seemed in time. I then check for fuel pressure at the fuel rack and was getting 40lbs of pressure at the fuel rack. The vehicle wouldn’t start although when I sprayed it with starting fluid it started right up initially I was thinking the crank sensor was sending the signal to the ecm to be relayed the injectors. However the next day after I got out of work I went to read an engine code as the engine light had come on before. I got no code just 12 the beginning code. So I tried to start the vehicle to retrigger the code to come on. It started a little rough but ran until I put my foot on the gas peddle and then it would die I did this several times it would start and then die as soon as I put my foot on the gas peddle. After the forth try I let it build up for a little bit until it seemed to be running smooth and then revved it up no problem at all it seemed to be running fine I ran it for a while trying to get it to act up again. I turned it off and restarted it about 10 times with no problem and it seemed to rev fine although it did seem like the peddle at a second or two hesitation as far as me revving the motor and then taking my foot off the peddle till the time it came back to an idle position. This is my dad’s car and he doesn’t have a whole lot of money and this is not something I want to throw parts at. I thought one of two things based on dieing and then starting back up, I was thinking that the ignition control module may be failing when it gets hot. I was going to take this off and test it for a while to get the part hot and see if it fails. The other thing I was thinking is probably the most obvious I think the fuel pump may be failing intermittently. I was going to replace the fuel filter and the thermostat relating to my previous problem for basic maintenance and possible trouble spots. Like I said before originally I was thinking I had a bad crank sensor but I am doubting that explanation now. As far as my first problem with this car I was thinking the propeller blades on the water pump have worn as I don't hear a bearing squeal and don't see any leak at the weap hole. I was a diesel mechanic for about 7 years so I have a pretty good mechanical knowledge but semi trucks are a little different beast and am not knowledgeable on every single model of car and what problems they tend to have.Read More

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