2000 S10 Heating Problem

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  #1  
Old 05-19-07, 09:49 AM
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2000 S10 Heating Problem

I have a 2000 Chevrolet S10 Pickup that I am having a problem with the heating system. I can't seem to get any heat out of any of the vents. Water temp is normal, air flow is normal, but air is always cold. After the engine runs for a while, both the inlet and outlet hoses to the hearter core are both warm.

1 - Someone said it could be the diverter flap not working properly. How do I check this?
2 - I was planning on fluching the heater core. I am going to cut both hoses and directly flush the core. Directly into the outlet hose and catch the flush directly out of the inlet hose. Is there something that I could pour into the core to dissolve anything that may be blocking the passages? Also, I am not sure which is the in and out, there is a 5/8" and a 3/4" hose, which is which?

Any advice or help anyone could give me about my problem would be appriciated. Is there anything else I can do or check about my heating problem.

Thanks,
mrt19
 
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Old 05-19-07, 11:19 AM
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If both your hoses coming in and out of the firewall are hot, then it's not your core. Most likely it is your blend door/actuator.

This door opens when heat is selected to allow the heat coming off the core to enter then air box. Sometimes you can get down real low under your dash and actually see this little motor turn the blend door.
 
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Old 05-19-07, 12:36 PM
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what was cause this

Thanks for the reply first of all. When I turn the knob to select heat the air flow changes a little and a different sound is made coming from under the dash. The air sounds a little different but I don't think the blend door is making the sound. What was cause the blend door to stop working? Could it be a loose vacuum hose in the dash or a bad actuator? How would I go about confirming the blend door is my problem? thanks for the help, mrt19
 
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Old 05-19-07, 02:20 PM
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Most likely your truck is electrically controlled and not vacuumed, but, you can check. Pull the control panel off, if there is no vacuum lines going to it, you have electric.

The blend door itself is usually not the problem, but the actuator that actually opens it. What noise is coming from that area, a clicking/popping type noise? If so, that is your problem.

The actuators over time go bad. It happened on my wifes Stratus a few months back.
 
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Old 05-20-07, 11:03 AM
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Old 05-20-07, 01:14 PM
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I have my glove box off and some off the under dash panels and there are alot of vacuum lines running everywhere. I do know that the flaps that control to which vent the air is directed is vacuum controled. I am going to remove the control panel to find out how the blend door is control and if I can see any problems in that area. I will let you know what I find out, thanks again, mrt19
 
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Old 05-20-07, 02:33 PM
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Old 05-25-07, 07:29 PM
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Ok, I have my control panel off and it is electric controlled. Is there a way I can ckeck the switch. I have a meter but does anyone know what ohm readings I should be getting and which prongs are are what. There are 3 and I am guessing that one in hot, one is ground, and one goes to the actuator. Where exactly is the blend door located, in the middle low, high, over to the pass side, etc..? Can I use a jumper wire at tht plug going to the atuator to bypass the pot to activate the actuator? Again, any help is appriciated? MRT
 
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Old 05-25-07, 07:58 PM
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I can only answer as to the location of the blend door;

These are usually located behind the center console and almost touching the floor. It will have a wire harness attached to it. There will be two, one blend door actuator and the other one, usually on the left side, will be the mode door.
 
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Old 05-25-07, 09:31 PM
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Do you know if or how I can test the blend door operation? Do you know how I can test the switch and the actuator before I start buying new parts? I do not think it is my heater core but would hate to start tearing the dash out and replace the core and that not be the problem. Both the heater hoses are hot when the engine have been running awhile so the water must be circulating. When the heater switch is turned the pitch of the air coming out of the vent changes but not the temp. Even if the heater core was not working I still should get warm air out on a hot day, right? What do you think about bypassing the switch to check the operation of the blend door? Again, thanks for the help, MRT19.
 
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Old 05-26-07, 06:58 AM
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I doubt your heater core is the issue. If it were clogged, you would have overheating problems.

If you get way down underneither your center dash, sometimes you can see the actual blend door actuator turning.

It's difficult too troubleshoot the control panel without a computer diagnostic machine.
 
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Old 05-26-07, 09:17 AM
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I own a 99 Sonoma, open your glove box, on the left is a stop, push it out of the way and the glove box drop down. Now you can see all the HVAC stuff. Way in the behind everything on top is the electric temp actuator.
 
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Old 05-26-07, 02:05 PM
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Ok, I have found the actuator, it is a little black box sitting on top of on one of the ducts, right? In the middle on top of the box I can fell something turning back and forth as I move the heater control switch back and forth, does this mean that the actuator is ok, or could there still be something wrong with it? How in the world do you get it out, do you have to remove the dash?

Thanks for everyones help on this,
MRT19
 
  #14  
Old 05-26-07, 02:20 PM
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Well according to the factory SI, to remove the temp motor the dash needs to come off.
From what I have read the normal failure is a clicking noise and no motor activation, sounds like your motor is working.
I guess you could tell more by removing the motor and see what gives.
 
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Old 05-26-07, 02:23 PM
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Dodge claimed that I had to remove the entire dashboard to remove my actuator. They wanted close to 800 in labor. It turned out I just had to remove lower center console to replace.

The point is, see if you can remove this actuator without removing the entire dash.

If you can feel the actuator moving, then either the door itself, or the connection point from where the door goes into the actuator maybe broken.

Either way, your back will be hurting when you are done.
 
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Old 05-26-07, 03:32 PM
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I can not tell if anything else is stuck, all I can feel is the actuator moving and I don't think there is enough room to remove it without tearing the dash out. So before I start doing that I am going to flush out the core real well to eliminate that issue. Will let ya'll know if that changes anything or what that does. A BIG THANKs to all you have helped so far, MRT19.
 
  #17  
Old 05-28-07, 09:58 AM
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I NOW HAVE HEAT!!!!!!!!

I removed the heater hoses and flushed the core in both directions through just the hoses. I did not see much of anything that could of been clogging it, mostly clear water. I may have also had air in the system causing the problem so when I reinstalled the hoses I top the system with water a bleed the hoses at the same time to make sure I got the air out. So I do not have a blend door problem because I could switch back and forth between hot and cold air. So we'll see how long this lasts, hopefully a really long time, and go from there.

AGAIN, THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME WITH THIS PROBLEM, MRT19.
 
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