Can a problem in the electrical system that is "external" from the alternator cause the alternator to generate an excessive voltage-output?. It's important to know that the volatge-regulator is "internal"-- the alternator/ regulator is comboned in one unit. As best I know, this is a "feed-back" system. The "input" to the regulator "voltage-sensing" circuit is the output-voltage to the battery. The "output" from the voltage-sensing circuit is an "error-signal" to the " field voltage-control" circuit. If the "error signal" is indicating excessive output-voltage, the field voltage-control circuit of the regulator should reduce the magnetic flux of the rotating field-coil, resulting in a reduced output-voltage. If this was a purely mechanical feed-back system, there would be a time-lag between "sensing" a deviation and correcting the "error", but with electronic components the responce time is instantaneous. As best I know, the service shop has tried 2 or 3 alternators, but the problem , which seems to be intermitent, re-occurs. The warning-lites are illuminated, the engine hesistates when starting after a full-stop. Also, the needle on the temperature guage is affected. Thanksto all who respond---

Outgassing from conventional batteries have corroded my battery tray, inner fender and frame. The corrosion appears to be superficial at this point, but it needs to be addressed. I used a battery mat and and plastic grid tray, but acid is still damaging the area. This is my 3rd battery tray, although the car is a 1974, but I think it's time to step up to an Optima red top or Exide Orbital. They are comparably priced and warrantied, but does anyone have a preference and why? They next question, should I also step up to the larger 78 series vs the smaller 75 series? P.S. What is the best thing to neutralize the battery acid that is wreaking havoc, until I switch batteries?