How Bad Did I Taken Advantage Of

I figured this might be fun(probably not for me though).. I just have this aching feeling I got screwed big time on some service done to my car. Wondering if some of you who actually know a thing or two about cars(unlike me) might be able to throw out a number for what all this was really worth. I will let you know what I paid later and see how off the mark.

2002 Dodge Neon with 25,000 Miles on it:
(before I list what was done, it sat outside in the elements(cleveland fall/winter) without being driven for about 4-5 months due to being recalled to the military, so thats what they think the cause was given the low mileage.. I couldnt stop my car without emergency brake). Thanks.
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2 New Disc Brake pads
2 New Rotors
Resurfaced 2 rear brake drums
Rear Brake preventative maintenance(lube and flushed)
2 New Lower Control Arms(said to be almost falling out)
2 Sway Bar Links
Alignment
Labor(obviously)
Oil Change
2 brand new tiger paw front tires

 

Sure there's a few bad apples out there but most reputable shops will give you a fair deal , mechanics labor is not cheap and has never been cheap, if they actually did all that you are listing I would expect to pay around somewhere south of 2K .
Just a guess.

 

For reference the time on that labor was 3 hours(mostly for the control arms).

Thanks for your reply, see if I can get a few more estimates and I will let you know what I actually paid.

 

I dont know why control arms were replaced or sway bar links. Oil change yes, and all the brake stuff. Tires only needed if worn or dry rotted. I would say 1500 hundred clams for all the work you had done and IMO some was not required.

 

Would a third of what your car is worth be close?

 

Sway bar and controls arms almost falling out with only 25k miles on it? Hmmm

I can see them replacing the pads and rotors, but the rest seems a bit much.

I wouldn't pay more then $1k for all of it.

 

As someone who has driven mostly $500 or less cars I'd say if it won't stop you fix the brakes and you only fix what is bad with the brakes. Once had a national brake repair chain quote me an outrageous repair like you mention. They wanted to rebuild the master cylinder. I pointed out I'd bought it not two weeks before and it was new not a rebuilt. Their reply they always rebuild the master cylinder. They wanted to replace the front wheel bearings. I asked if that was causing my problem of soft pedal (of course it wouldn't). They said it didn't matter they always changed the wheel bearings. And on it went... well you get the Idea.

Took it to an independent mechanic who found a leaking wheel cylinder as the only real problem and fixed it for a whole lot less.

As to tires I have always driven on Maypops. Many were probably older then the ones you replaced when I bought them. I usually got lots of mile out of them before the belt showed. (I've also had lots of practice handling a blow out and driving on flat tires thanks to using $15-18 tires.)

Now all that said you have to weigh safety against what you can afford. If you could afford what you paid then you weren't ripped off because you were getting a heaping helping of safety by fixing soon to be problems.

 

I would say something between Mark and Michael, $1000-1500. I am also skeptical that it all needed to be done, although on a 5 year old car in winter road-salt territory undercarriage parts could be rusting off. If this was dealership work it could easily run to $2k.

And thank you for your service.

 

And thank you for your service also Tow RW

 

I would say they got you pretty bad. When you tried to stop did the pedal go to the floor easily? Did the brakes lock up? Was there a loud pop or crack when you pressed on the brake? If the pedal went to the floor, most likely Master Cylinder or calipers or slave cylinder. Locked up brakes (skidded easily), tires. Loud crack or pop, pads/rotors, and/or drums. Did you ask you ask them to show you the wear on the old parts?

 

no, pedal didnt go to the floor easily. It just stuttered trying to stop the car and it was like it was trying to stop but it wasn't able to grip the rotor. It also clicked when I drove a little bit.

I took it to this same place about a year ago, and they said that my brakes were really bad with rust(after it sit for 5 months)... they said I could try and use them and hope it scraped off naturally but they were in pretty bad shape.

Well I drove it for about 9 months after that and finally the breaks just died and wouldnt stop at all, which is when I took it in.

They asked me if I wanted to see the old parts a few times but I said no because I wouldnt know what to look for... I know the rotor was rusted and the pads, but I wouldn't be able recognize the control arm issues anyways.

The tires and oil change were my idea, they didn't push those.. i needed an oil change and the front tires were worn because of the alignment being so off, i would have had to get them before winter anyways I figured, and the ones I had were all stock from 5 years ago.

 

Well, don't keep us in suspense!!!

 

Yes, hurry up and tell us how you got robbed before we lock the thread.

 

i would hope they gave you a good deal. you went to serve for us. shame on them if they did'nt give you a discount. thanks for your service.

 

Since you stated the front tires were worn because of alignment problems, and the brakes had failed. I would say everything on the list should have been changed. Ball Park est. 1000 to 1500.

 

Must of really got burned!

 

Ok, well I guess from what you guys have said here I might not have got hit to bad on it.

I paid $1200 for everything including taxes.

I thought it seemed high but maybe it was just about were it should have been.

Thanks for everyone's participation and help.