'95 1/2 ton Ford F150 2wd rear wheel broke off

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  #1  
Old 06-27-07, 12:21 PM
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'95 1/2 ton Ford F150 2wd rear wheel broke off

As a result of loose lugs nuts, the driver rear wheel broke off my F150 at 70 mph the other day. The three questions I have are:
1. Besides removing all of the brake shoe components and springs (the drum was lost in the incident, how do I remove (and replace) the bent lug nuts?
2. The thick metal disc that all of the brake shoes and hardware are secured to was ground down by the skidding on the pavement. What is this part called, and how does one remove and replace it?
3. How do inspect for a bent or out of place axle before I go investing in new parts and labor?
Thanks for any help in advance
 
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  #2  
Old 06-27-07, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Umby View Post
As a result of loose lugs nuts, the driver rear wheel broke off my F150 at 70 mph the other day. The three questions I have are:
1. Besides removing all of the brake shoe components and springs (the drum was lost in the incident, how do I remove (and replace) the bent lug nuts?

You may have to cut them off with a hacksaw or die grinder than hammer them out with a chisel or air chisel. You can draw the new ones in with lugnuts and washers being careful that they are drawn in all of the way otherwise the wheel could loosen up again.

2. The thick metal disc that all of the brake shoes and hardware are secured to was ground down by the skidding on the pavement. What is this part called, and how does one remove and replace it?

Thats the backing plate. I think it unbolts fron the axle assembly from the backside of the plate, if you see bolts behing the plate, thats them. i don't think its welded on.

3. How do inspect for a bent or out of place axle before I go investing in new parts and labor?

The best way is using a dial indicator, you secure it to the backing plate and turn the axle shaft. I am not sure of specs, probably within .003 to .005 though that is a guess. If the shaft is straight thats a good sign that the axle housing is still ok. I would visually inspect it all for cracking or obviously a visual bend. If the runout on the shaft is ok and it doesn't bind you should be ok I would think.
Thanks for any help in advance
Hope this helps, Goodluck!
 
  #3  
Old 06-27-07, 01:44 PM
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Civicminded,
How does one remove the backing plate (once unbolted) from around the 'wheel' where the lug nuts go through? Does this 'wheel' (name?) have to be removed as well?
Thanks
 
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Old 06-28-07, 12:05 AM
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axle

Pretty sure the axle has to come out to get backing plate off.
 
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Old 06-28-07, 06:38 AM
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OK (now I'll show my ghetto approach car repair), is it possible to still use this damaged backing plate even though part of it has been flattened during the skid? None of the brake shoe components were affected nor where their anchor points. I.e. the flattening stops just short of the gear wheel that adjust the shoes.
 
  #6  
Old 06-28-07, 09:27 AM
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really depends on how damaged it is if its not affecting the brake components and the drum will go on without rubbing on the backing plate it may be able to be reused you may also be able to bend the edges back some where it was flatened if needed.
 
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Old 06-28-07, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Umby View Post
Civicminded,
How does one remove the backing plate (once unbolted) from around the 'wheel' where the lug nuts go through? Does this 'wheel' (name?) have to be removed as well?
Thanks
You have to remove the axle shaft by opening the rear differential cover and removing the pin that secures the spider gears, then without turning anything you push the axleshaft in, remove a little clip, and then the whole axleshaft will pull out.
The axle shaft is the piece that the studs for the lugnuts go into.
 
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Old 06-28-07, 01:33 PM
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On a different note, have you determined how the lugnuts got loose in the first place? Vandalism or maybe you had the rear tires replaced and the tire place didn't snug them up (seen that more than once).

And yes, the axle would have to come out to replace the backing plate. If you continue to use the damaged plate you may be more prone to problems resulting from dust/dirt and water intrusion; depends on how big a gap there is when everything is put back together.

I doubt the axle itself would be bent since the weight would have been on the backing plate, although the brake drum could have slammed down and made contact before it went flying which could have stressed the shaft. Was the flange on the end of the axle (where the lugs are mounted) ever in contact with the ground?
 
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Old 06-29-07, 10:40 AM
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No the flange was never touched. I pounded out the old studs and still checked the flange for any bending or stress and could see none. I actually went back to the sight of this nerve-racking event and collected the drum. It looks good, some minor chips in the outer edge and very orange in color (from the one rain storm we had), but overall it looks very round. as for the backing plate, it was ground flat right up to (and including) the adjustment wheel (this would be about 1.5-2" up from the original bottom of the plate). This is the only internal part that will need to be replace. (I already have full complement of replacement parts because I was fixing to do this brake in a couple weeks). As you may know, the backing plate already has a lip that runs all the way around it, to fit into the edge of the drum. This lip of course was compromised during the skidding and subsequent flattening of the plate. So along the entire flat bottom of the plate now, this new lip is twice as wide and has melted bits of I-94 asphalt on it: it is more of a horizontal shelf now. I got out my 4.5" angle grinder and have begun cutting away at left and right sides of this shelf so that the drum will once again fit over it. I will need to cut away some more of this shelf (if not all of it) in order for the shoes to move freely and to put into place the new adjustment wheel. HOw the lug nuts got loose is a bit of mystery and whole other story. But one thing is for certain: it gave me plenty of warning that I chose to ignore because I have been in a 'hurry' lately. I am ashamed to admitt that, but there it was! The vehicle vibrated harshly during braking AND just throttle-off/slowing down, and the biggest indicator of all was the rear end swaying at highway speeds. I could kick myself...
I intend on put the other axle on a jackstand as well, remove its tire and put lugs on both drums and place the vehicle drive. This should help identify the old drum is really out-of-round and or the axle is compromised. Let me know what think.
 
  #10  
Old 06-29-07, 01:54 PM
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would probably just replace it you can probably get a backing plate at a salvage yard that is in good shape this will help keep water or moisture out of the brakes wich can cause problems with drum brakes grabbing or locking up not to mention reduced brake performance.
 
  #11  
Old 07-05-07, 01:29 PM
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Took my 4.5" angle grinder and and cleaned up the new edge. Installed new shoes and springs, made sure nothing was binding or obstructed. Actually put on old drum (recovered from freeway two days after incident). Cleaned and and sanded inside of drum first. Fit pretty good. Took several test dirves and no real vibrations, noises or heat build up. So I drove on into work at 70mph today with no issues. Only a 1 -2 inch gap remains open. We'll see if braking performance is affected during rain. Thanks for the help.
 
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