i got a quote for a tune up on my 91 mazda b2200...the repair shop gave me a quote of $150 for a tune-up...

this is what he said they would do for the $150: replace spark plugs, plug wires, rotor button, air filter, pcv valve, and set the timing...

i can do all of that except set the timing...

is it expensive to set the timing or should i not worry about the timing...??? i had the timing belt changed about 25000 miles ago...

it seems to me i can save some money by doing all of it myself (except for setting the timing)...

any thoughts...

michael

 

You just need a timing gun.

You adjust the timing by loosening up the distributor cap and turn the rotor until you find your degrees.


It's always cheaper to do it yourself if you have the tools.

 

that is another problem...i really don't know what to even look for on the timing...

how do i set it after finding the degrees??? do i have to turn the engine on for anything to do this...

like i said...don't know how to do it...

 

Here's another way of doing it.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/f5/cb/0900823d8019f5cb/repairInfoPages.htm


Is the timing actually the issue? If your truck runs fine after the plugs and wires and distributor cap is changed, there should be no need to adjust the timing.

 

I agree; with modern electronic ignition systems there's really no way for it to get out of time. I would replace all the items mentioned and let it go at that unless you are having specific performance problems.

FWIW, $150 would not be a bad price for having all that done; it would cost at least half of that just for the parts.

 

If you have the tools for the rest of the job and you like doing things like that, then I would suggest you buy a timing gun with the money saved and do the job yourself.
I have found that in the long run I get a better job done when I do the job myself. The people in the shop are not as meticulous about doing a job that I am. I would buy a good book on the vehicle and follow the directions.
I would investigate the timing when doing it because it is an opportunity to know if the timing is out or not and if the belt/chain has stretched.
If the base timing is out then the valve timing is likely out some also.
It depends on you and how much " do it yourself " you want to do.
Checking timing is not hard to do and in my book it is beneficial.
Get back to us if you have questions.

 

thanks frankie...

i just have no idea with what to do with a timing gun...i know they exist, but i don't know what to point it at...

i didn't grow working on engines, so i have no experience...i can change spark plugs, change oil, change plug wires, pcv valve, change a battery, etc...

any help on the use of the timing gun would be appreciated...

michael

 

Should find everything you need to know here:

https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/f0/a6/0900823d8019f0a6/repairInfoPages.htm

 

do i have to take the timing belt cover off???

i can tell exactly where to point the timing light...i think i may just have someone do this...

thanks...

 

No, the timing marks are external. There will be a notch in the edge of the crank pulley and a scale or pointer in a fixed location on the engine or timing cover (see link above for diagrams).

 

can't find a notch or mark anywhere...it is so tight and close quarters down there, i can't see to see all that i need to see...

i think i will have to let someone do this for me...

darn it...

thanks for the help...

 

found a great site about timing and the mazda b2200...

however, i have a few questions about the timing marks...

is the small triangle above the pulley what i line the arrow up with???

what are the marks i need to look for with the degrees at the bottom pulley???

plus, i read this site and looked at your posts, but i am still confused of where to point the timing gun and what am i looking for when i do this???

http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/B22TimeCheck.html

is this too much for me in your opinion from my posts??? also, the reason i am doing all of this is that i have carbon soot on my spark plugs...running rich...rotor button doesn't look to good...i am hoping by changing the spark plugs, rotor button, plug wires, and checking the timing that it will run a littler smooter...is idles really rough...it runs fine when i am traveling down the road, but it doesn't idle well...would a bad air filter or pcv valve be the cause of this...also, if leaves a black mark on the concrete driveway and the black soot on the spark plugs be an indication that it is running rich??? if so, would a simple tune up do the trick???

thanks...michael

 

I doubt changing plugs wil fix the soot. Sounds like improper fuel air ratio. What set-up do you have for fuel getting in your engine?; like a carb, or throttle body injection or individual port fuel injection? Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? Do you have a choke linkage of any tyope that opens up when the vehicle gets warm?

 

i have a 2.2L 4 cyclinder engine with a carb

i don't anything other than that...i have read all kinds of forums about the parts of a tuneup...i have that a bad pcv valve can cause it to run rich, as well as a bad air filter...

just thought i would try a few things i can do first...

trying to save money...

 

Do you have a choke that is maybe staying closed during idle (when warm), but then releases when you step on the gas? Or maybe you have a needle and seat leak in the carb, or a float inside is sunk lower than normal and letting too much gas pour over the top (inside).

Keep the dialogue going so others can jump in.

 

In line with ecman's dialogue, I don't know if your Mazda had the problem, but some older carbureted vehicles had problems with the carb float becoming less bouyant over time (essentially gas-logged) and causing flooding.

Back to your original post and subsequent dialogue; I'm not sure you wouldn't have been better off spending the $150. Among other things, the mechanic could have checked any other possible problem areas if you let him know ahead of time of any symptoms. Unless it's the choke ecman suggested, it may be time to have the carb overhauled or replaced (although a replacement unit might be a little pricey).

 

i had it checked out by a reputable mechanic...

the carburator is messed up...they told me it would need to be replaced...it running extremely rich...they tried to lean it up, but it was still running rich...

price for the carb: $700 plus labor costs...

oh well...let's run it til it dies i guess...

thanks for the help and info...

michael

 

A carb rarely has to be fully replaced. They have rebuild kits which are alot cheaper. I would look into it before dumping all that money for a new one.

 

There's a couple of external diaphragms in that system that can make a carb LOOK bad...........or worse than it really is.........And while I really enjoyed overhauling carbs.........The Japanese ones were extremely touchy....a first timer would have fits trying to set float levels and deal with the choke settings................and then you need a 5 gal pail of small parts cleaner to soak it in for 1/2 a day.........not really feasible for one carb........

 

here is the updated update...

took it back in...talked about remanufactured carbs...that is the route we are taking...he said he could get a carb kit, but those sometimes have problems...he said we could do a kit, but it may not fix the problem...i can't remember everything he said about the kit, but i do remember him telling me that it wouldn't be a good idea in his opinion to dump the money involved in a kit and all the labor because we still might be where we started...he mentioned that the problem was in the computer controls on the carb or something...the computer was sending the signals, but the computer portion of the carb wasn't responding...something of that nature...this guy is one that we really trust...have known him for over 20 years...he is an honest man and has a very honest business...

it is the type of carb i believe that is the problem...old 91 mazda b2200 japanese carb...

 

Another route could be a used one from a auto wrecker
You could shop around for a good price

 

I know you have AC from another post of yours, so that makes checking the timing a little tougher, tougher to see the mark and pulley (I have a 1988). As to the carburetor, these are the most complicated carbs in the world (by that time everyone else had changed to fuel injection). So don't rebuild yours, and/or could also be the ECU sending/not sending certain signals to the carb solenoids, etc. Does your area have emissions checking for your year? I replaced my stock carburetor with a Weber 32/36 DGEV kit 3.5 years ago, runs fine; I even adapted my aftermarket cruise control to it.

 

This thread is over a yr old.......