2000 ford excursion

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  #1  
Old 08-18-07, 04:55 PM
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2000 ford excursion

I have a 2000 ford excursion(diesel). About three months ago I noticed my front tires were wearing unevenly and I had a shake in the front end. I took it into a alignment shop and they told me I needed new ball joints. I replaced the upper and lower ball joints, since the 4x4 drive axles were out I figured that I may as well replace the ujoints in the axles, I replaced the axle seals, all 4 rotors were replaced and new brake pads installed, I put 4 new tires that are balanced, I had the front end aligned, I changed the fluid in the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case, I changed all the fluid in the trans and torque converter and fut in a new filter. Everything was great until about a week ago when I noticed a little vibration only when I would let off the gas. Ikept driving it and now it shakes on acceleration also. I notice the shake at about 40+ mph. I assumed that I needed to replace the driveline ujoints. I went to replace them today and there is no movement or play in any of them. I checked the tire wear, ball joints, tie rod ends, brakes, transmission fluid, and all other fluid levels and everything seems tight and full. The trucks engine runs great and has no power loss, the transmission pulls fine and, shifts through the gears great. I don't know if there could be a problem in the rear end, transmission, or suspension. Ijust don't know what else to look for. The truck does have 150,000 miles on, but this is the only problem I have. I've put the last 60000 miles on the truck and I do all the maintenace. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. sorry about the length, I just wanted to give all info I could. Thank you Dave
 
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Old 08-18-07, 05:14 PM
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Is your first "front end shake" you spoke of, the same symptoms of the new "vibration"? Could be just a coincidence and unrelated, where old age has simply now caught up to something else. I once got fooled in thinking my rear u-joints were good after I removed load from them and tried to turn back and forth and they felt tight, only later to discover needle bearings inside them all skewered up inside the cups and locked up.

Also are you leaking any transmission fluid out rear seal to indicate your splined end of shaft is wobbling around in the rear of transmission?

Do you see any signs where there appears maybe too much fore and aft play in driveshaft in and out of transmission or rear end? You can see the mark on driveshaft or yoke where you can see how far it went in, then slid back out, - if that could indicate excessive internal wear that maybe is caused by too much play between rear-end gears perhaps. Or perhaps bad rear end bearing where the yoke slips in.

I don't know, but am pointing out some stuff to look at.
 
  #3  
Old 08-18-07, 05:43 PM
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Thanks ECMAN for your reply--The old shake was due to the tires being worn down only on one side, due to the truck being out of alignment. The transmission does not leak anywhere. I moved the driveshafts up, down, pushed, and pulled on them and they are tight. I think that they are original because there aren't any grease fittings on them. Is there any other way to tell if they are bad. I was going to change them just because of their age, and when I went to take them off of the differential, two of the four bolts came out, but not easy. The other two bolts, I couldn't budge. It appears that a twelve point twelve mm socket is needed to remove the bolts. I will eventually get these out and change the u-joints, but I would rather spend my time fixing the actual problem. I just don't know what the actual problem is. Thanks again for any opinion. Dave
 
  #4  
Old 08-18-07, 06:21 PM
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Vibrations can be time-consuming to pin down. Does it feel more like it is in your seat rather than the steering wheel? Have you altered the height of the vehicle? Have you carefully looked at where the axles attach to the frame that there has been no shift? Have you looked at any rubber mounts you might have? How does your vehicle coast after you let off the gas? Any indication it tries to prematurely slow down or pulls to one side?

Regarding the u-joint: I am not sure how common this is, but the one that failed on mine, it caused some needle bearings inside it to climb piggy back or otherwise jam inside and caused the bearing to lock up as if it was actually good. I only discovered something wrong at the last minute when I was about to give up, that the u-joint was shifted a certain tell-tale way that I could tell something was wrong. But I did not have that classic slop feeling (associated with bad u-joints)when I tried rotating the shaft back and forth, in my case.

Regarding using 12-point socket. You may want to use 12-point box end. Here is why: The point of leverage is more on-plane with what you are torquing. It gives you better leverage that won't try as much to have the 12-point slip off the heads and potentially round it. Think about it once: If you use a short socket, it's not toooo bad; But if you use a deep socket, that effect I am refering to becomes worse when you encounter something that won't come off. Therefore, the box-end is even more sturdier than the shallow socket, because of it's lower center. Less likely then, when you reef on it, to round off the corners.

Hopefully more chime in here.
 
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