car repair/92 chevy cavalir/3.1 V-6
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car repair/92 chevy cavalir/3.1 V-6
I Have A 92 Chevy Cavalier Wagon,v-6 3.1
The Car Cuts Off When I'm Driving, I Took Apart And Clean The Body Throttle With The Stp Throttle Cleaner Use Two Can And Toothbrush, Got All Carbon Build Up,until It Was Clear.
Crank It Up Same Problem, What I Did Do Was Turn The Adjusting Screw, To Like A 1 Reading On The Rpm Tach, Ran Good For Awhile, But It Still Cut Off Sometimes, In The Morning No Problem,should I Change The Map Sensor And Air Intake Value, Can I Get Them From My Junk Yard,how Much Do They Cost. Like A Said When I Turn The Screw It Idle Steady. What Should I Do. All In All It's A Great Car. A Mechanic Did Tune-it Up And Put A Cayacltic Converter On. But The Problem Was Still There Until I Turn The Idle Screw Up.
The Car Cuts Off When I'm Driving, I Took Apart And Clean The Body Throttle With The Stp Throttle Cleaner Use Two Can And Toothbrush, Got All Carbon Build Up,until It Was Clear.
Crank It Up Same Problem, What I Did Do Was Turn The Adjusting Screw, To Like A 1 Reading On The Rpm Tach, Ran Good For Awhile, But It Still Cut Off Sometimes, In The Morning No Problem,should I Change The Map Sensor And Air Intake Value, Can I Get Them From My Junk Yard,how Much Do They Cost. Like A Said When I Turn The Screw It Idle Steady. What Should I Do. All In All It's A Great Car. A Mechanic Did Tune-it Up And Put A Cayacltic Converter On. But The Problem Was Still There Until I Turn The Idle Screw Up.
#2
Google "Cavalier CPS" and click on link (has picture also).
This might be your issue.
Last year I tried helping out this woman who borrowed about a '91 Cavalier from a friend and she got me involved and I found timing way off and it behaved like yours where it would start cool, and run just fine. But drive it, park it and try to restart it and it would not. The actual owner of the (beater)car said he was almost certain he knew the trouble was with the CPS (crankshaft postiooning sensor).
That car was a 4 cylinder though. But this might still apply.
Found and pasted this from some educational type (not discussion board opinion)website:
"CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. Used on engines with distributorless ignition systems, the crankshaft position sensor serves essentially the same purpose as the ignition pickup and trigger wheel in an electronic distributor. It generates a signal that the PCM needs to determine the position of the crankshaft and the number one cylinder. This information is necessary to control ignition timing and the operation of the fuel injectors. The signal from the crank sensor also tells the PCM how fast the engine is running (engine rpm) so ignition timing can be advanced or retarded as needed. On some engines, a separate camshaft position sensor is also used to help the PCM determine the correct firing order. The engine will not run without this sensor's input.
There are two basic types of crankshaft position sensors: magnetic and Hall effect. The magnetic type uses a magnet to sense notches in the crankshaft or harmonic balancer. As the notch passes underneath, it causes a change in the magnetic field that produces an alternating current signal.
The frequency of the signal gives the PCM the information it needs to control timing. The Hall effect type of crank sensor uses notches or shutter blades on the crank, cam gear or balancer to disrupt a magnetic field in the Hall effect sensor window. This causes the sensor to switch on and off, producing a digital signal that the PCM reads to determine crank position and speed.
Crank Position Sensor Strategies: If a crank position sensor fails, the engine will die. The engine may, however, still crank but it will not start. Most problems can be traced to faults in the sensor wiring harness. A disruption of the sensor supply voltage (Hall effect types), ground or return circuits can cause a loss of the all-important timing signal."
Maybe this can help you some if this applies to your car.
This might be your issue.
Last year I tried helping out this woman who borrowed about a '91 Cavalier from a friend and she got me involved and I found timing way off and it behaved like yours where it would start cool, and run just fine. But drive it, park it and try to restart it and it would not. The actual owner of the (beater)car said he was almost certain he knew the trouble was with the CPS (crankshaft postiooning sensor).
That car was a 4 cylinder though. But this might still apply.
Found and pasted this from some educational type (not discussion board opinion)website:
"CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. Used on engines with distributorless ignition systems, the crankshaft position sensor serves essentially the same purpose as the ignition pickup and trigger wheel in an electronic distributor. It generates a signal that the PCM needs to determine the position of the crankshaft and the number one cylinder. This information is necessary to control ignition timing and the operation of the fuel injectors. The signal from the crank sensor also tells the PCM how fast the engine is running (engine rpm) so ignition timing can be advanced or retarded as needed. On some engines, a separate camshaft position sensor is also used to help the PCM determine the correct firing order. The engine will not run without this sensor's input.
There are two basic types of crankshaft position sensors: magnetic and Hall effect. The magnetic type uses a magnet to sense notches in the crankshaft or harmonic balancer. As the notch passes underneath, it causes a change in the magnetic field that produces an alternating current signal.
The frequency of the signal gives the PCM the information it needs to control timing. The Hall effect type of crank sensor uses notches or shutter blades on the crank, cam gear or balancer to disrupt a magnetic field in the Hall effect sensor window. This causes the sensor to switch on and off, producing a digital signal that the PCM reads to determine crank position and speed.
Crank Position Sensor Strategies: If a crank position sensor fails, the engine will die. The engine may, however, still crank but it will not start. Most problems can be traced to faults in the sensor wiring harness. A disruption of the sensor supply voltage (Hall effect types), ground or return circuits can cause a loss of the all-important timing signal."
Maybe this can help you some if this applies to your car.
Last edited by ecman51; 09-28-07 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Added info found on CPS
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your description of the problem isnt that great to be of much help if it dies when does it die does it ever die while your pressing on the accelerator or is it always when your just idling.
after it dies does it restart?
would check codes for a starting point by jumpering the a and b terminals on the aldl connector under the driver side dash after retreiving any codes would probably disconnect the battery to clear the codes as if youve raised the idle would expect possible false codes may have been set from just that alone you should also disconnect the battery anytime you adjust the idle speed and you really need a scanner to set it correctly, but disconnecting the battery will reset the tps throtle percentage wich should of changed from raising the idle, and you will probably find it will idle lower after restarting.
after it dies does it restart?
would check codes for a starting point by jumpering the a and b terminals on the aldl connector under the driver side dash after retreiving any codes would probably disconnect the battery to clear the codes as if youve raised the idle would expect possible false codes may have been set from just that alone you should also disconnect the battery anytime you adjust the idle speed and you really need a scanner to set it correctly, but disconnecting the battery will reset the tps throtle percentage wich should of changed from raising the idle, and you will probably find it will idle lower after restarting.
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92 chevy cavalier
hi bejay
the car do start back up,when it's idling or when i'm driving it dies out, now on good day no problem morning time,sometimes runs rough, but if i keep foot on gas she's run. man it's a pain in the butt,but will do the battery disconnect. also will take this print out to my mechinc same with ecman51 comment. but you don't think it's the map sensor. thanks will try all ideas. i'll do follow up let you know how i made out..
the car do start back up,when it's idling or when i'm driving it dies out, now on good day no problem morning time,sometimes runs rough, but if i keep foot on gas she's run. man it's a pain in the butt,but will do the battery disconnect. also will take this print out to my mechinc same with ecman51 comment. but you don't think it's the map sensor. thanks will try all ideas. i'll do follow up let you know how i made out..