I go out after it ran GOOD the prior day to start it up this morning, and the weather was cooler than normal last night, AND THE MOTOR REVS ((REAL HIGH!!!)) As though the trottle is stuck, and it stays like this even when you drive it, and I refuse to drive it anywhere so it doesnt tear up the transmission /axle. (god forbid)

So I drove it a lil bit anyway hoping it would quit...it didnt... Ive seen in the past re-booting the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal would solve that...that didnt work. (unless after I was told it didnt leave it disconnected long enough?)

It being a 95' I tried to take it to autozone to have the that computer thingy hooked up to the 'check engine' terminal, because its not a 96' or up. So im screwed there...And the CHECK ENGINE light DOES NOT come on as it is, so thats out anyway.

Could this be the throttle posisition censor or somthing? Is this a bad sensor period? Lemme know.

Thanks in advance.

 

could be a tbs sensor idle air control motor vacuum leak any one of them

 

Alright, if it can be done, can you locate exactly where it is on here so ill know?......





Sorry for the LARGE res. I need to get this done ASAP.

Thanks

 

it could be alot of things besides tps and iac and vac leak could also be a throttle cable problem or coolant temperature sensor or even a bad ecm and thats just covers some of the parts that could cause a high idle assuming the wiring is ok.
you should probably see about getting the vehicle diagnosed at a shop where they can atleast tell you what is causing the problem as throwing parts on it could get expensive, you might get lucky and replace the tps or iac and it fix the problem but I wouldnt count on it, the tps and iac are both located on the throttle body and are easily seen in your first pic and you should have no trouble finding them if you just look at the new part so you know what your looking for should you decide to replace them, rather than having the car diagnosed.

 

i would have to agree that just hooking a scnner up to it would tell u alot and be well worth it then just putting parts in it

i did not include a temp sensor because if u have a temp sensor skewed to cold car will run rough do to the ecm making the fuel mixture to rich will not make the idle go as high as the poster says u can prove this to urself just unplug it ur idle will not race

 

It just acts as though the IDLE needs to be turned down, like as though if there was a idle adjustment screw.

 

Sounds like an Idle Air Control valve being faulty.
Get it scanned at AutoZone for free to be sure.
You will need the gasket as well.