92 taurus acceleration probs
#1
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92 taurus acceleration probs
quick question about a thread i just read. i was looking for info about my car accelerating when i'm wanting to brake. i came across a tranny thread (also having that problem) it says that a vehicle speed sensor or throttle valve can cause similar tranny "symptoms" ... my tranny is shifting really hard and slow when it's shifting down .. say around 45 mph and 35 mph. it's not a continuos thing though. anyhow.. do ya think this is maybe the tv or vehicle speed sensor causing all of this? i need an answer pretty quick cause i'm driving this car to work everyday.. like 30 miles one way.

#2
Let me see if I can be of any help. I the throttle valve could cause this because if it broke or seized up then the tranny could be stuck at full line pressure causing the hard shifts and the accelerating when your braking. I would see if it was broken or seized by taking it off at the throttle body and working it by hand. See if it moves freely. also follow it down to the tranny make sure it is working on that end also.
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clown shoes
Are you wearing clown shoes or do you have a cast on your right foot. Are you a right for gas and left for brake kind of person?
Get rid of the floor mat. The factory rigid (w/ wire around edge) style can slide over the top of your gas pedal.
Does it actually accelerate when you try to brake or just not slow down? The computer should have some input from the brake pedal make sure that switch is ok. Do your brake lights work? If you have cruise control test and see if the slightest touch to the brake pedal disengages cruise.
What does it do in neutral? Does it rev and then drop to idle normally? If not look for vacuum leaks. If it idles high all the time, look at idle control valve and vacuum leaks. If the car is very rusty and it does not slow down check tv as suggested plus smooth operation of pedal, return spring and throttle cable. Don’t lube the cable, replace it.
Is the t-stat stuck open? Do you have normal heat? Temp gauge normal?
Another long shot may be bad motor mounts that allow a change in geometry where the throttle cable acts as a motor mount.
If you have overdrive, try driving in D instead of OD. You will get worse highway mileage, but eliminate rough 4th to 3rd shifts.
Is check engine light on?
Shift to N at 45 mph and brake normally. If you stop ok but you engine speeds up, shift to N at 45 mph and let off the gas but do not brake. If the engine does not rev, and you gradually slow, suspect a vacuum leak related to the brake booster.
Get rid of the floor mat. The factory rigid (w/ wire around edge) style can slide over the top of your gas pedal.
Does it actually accelerate when you try to brake or just not slow down? The computer should have some input from the brake pedal make sure that switch is ok. Do your brake lights work? If you have cruise control test and see if the slightest touch to the brake pedal disengages cruise.
What does it do in neutral? Does it rev and then drop to idle normally? If not look for vacuum leaks. If it idles high all the time, look at idle control valve and vacuum leaks. If the car is very rusty and it does not slow down check tv as suggested plus smooth operation of pedal, return spring and throttle cable. Don’t lube the cable, replace it.
Is the t-stat stuck open? Do you have normal heat? Temp gauge normal?
Another long shot may be bad motor mounts that allow a change in geometry where the throttle cable acts as a motor mount.
If you have overdrive, try driving in D instead of OD. You will get worse highway mileage, but eliminate rough 4th to 3rd shifts.
Is check engine light on?
Shift to N at 45 mph and brake normally. If you stop ok but you engine speeds up, shift to N at 45 mph and let off the gas but do not brake. If the engine does not rev, and you gradually slow, suspect a vacuum leak related to the brake booster.