2001 Silverardo 4x4 front brakes

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  #1  
Old 11-05-07, 04:34 AM
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2001 Silverardo 4x4 front brakes

Hello all, is it difficult to replace the front pads?? any special tools required?? Thanks all.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-05-07, 05:38 AM
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Best buy a Haynes manual for your vehicle so you've some instructions and photos on how to do this. Usually regular shop tools and a large C-clamp are all that is needed and not too difficult. If you've ABS system on the truck, it can complicate things. Better read up in the manual first to see if it is within your skill level (no insult intended).
Bob
 
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Old 11-05-07, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bob22 View Post
Best buy a Haynes manual for your vehicle so you've some instructions and photos on how to do this. Usually regular shop tools and a large C-clamp are all that is needed and not too difficult. If you've ABS system on the truck, it can complicate things. Better read up in the manual first to see if it is within your skill level (no insult intended).
Bob

None taken, is it advisable to open bleeder valve at caliper before compressing the cylinder??

Thanks
 
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Old 11-05-07, 03:45 PM
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You do not need any Haynes manual for a basic pad change.

Just remove the two small bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket. Once these are removed, remove the caliper and support it so the brake lines are not kinked.

Just push the pads out.

They have a caliper piston tool you can rent at a autostore, but you can probably push the piston back in with some force. Just make sure you remove the reservoir cap prior to this. You do not need to open any bleed screws.
 
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Old 11-05-07, 04:26 PM
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"Hot" is definitely on the right track that it is pretty straight forward job. But it seems that way to those who have done this work. If you have never done this before you do have to know a few things.

After removal of the piston caliper, you can slip off the outer pad.

Then you have to slip off the rotor (the big disc) to be able to get off the inner pad.

Be observant of any spring clip that might ride over the top of the pads, and how it goes in case it comes off on you! Observe - THEN remove parts! Not bad idea to have digital camera to take close up pictures first, even.

Be observant as to what pad goes where, the big one and the small one, and which direction they face, that the curve is the right direction.

Scrape any scale off the glides that the brake pads slide on.

Compress the piston with a c-clamp , with it centered, (do not use some out-of-aligned c-clamp!) and go slow and be observant that the rubber seal around the piston folds back in and does not or is not torn.

Position inner pad on the glides, and push to the back. Put the rotor back on. Slip the outer pad over the glide.

Make sure your piston stayed fully pushed in. Sometimes they try to push back out some and you can't get the caliper to fit over the new thick pads. (can be frustrating if you don't know why, and what I just said is why)

You will likely also need to push the rubber grommets/ferrule that are around each bolt, back inward. You will never get your caliper to slip back over the pads and to bolt back up unless those rubber grommets/ferrule around the bolt are pushed back so that none of it is INSIDE the caliper.(toward the engine direction!)

If you get the caliper back on and bolted up successfully, then check your brake fluid level. It may have remained the same. (If not, add of course) Upon moving the vehicle, be careful as it will take several pumpings of the brake to get the pedal feel back to where it originally was. If you just simply start the car and back out of the garage, you may notice the car won't stop well. As said, you will need to depress the brake several times before the pedal action returns to original.

If any one else has more to add, jump in. I just changed the ones on my car about 2 weeks ago, and it was easy and fast for me, but for someone who maybe never ever did it before - that is why I wrote all that I did. To save you grief from experiencing head scratching things I went thru the very first time I did this.

(Never have done a 4 x 4 and there may be other issues, I am not aware of.)
 
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Old 11-05-07, 06:25 PM
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Thanks for the reply's. Got the front done tonight. Must be the rear making noise will get those pads in the morning The old age isn't let me her noise to good I guess... Got a T55 for the front is the backs any different????

Thanks guys.
 
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Old 11-06-07, 11:58 AM
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How were the condition of the pads in the front, and did the job go well for you, without any head scratching or cursing?
 
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Old 11-06-07, 08:23 PM
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if i remember right it is a t55 and 18 mm bolts for the brackets

also the rear will have park shoes inside the rotor which can make it hard to remove the rotors at times
 
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Old 11-07-07, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
How were the condition of the pads in the front, and did the job go well for you, without any head scratching or cursing?
All is well now. The backs had about nothing let, the fronts had 1/4 inch or more. The backs took a 12MM and a cresent to hold the inner part, but they came off easy.

Thanks for the reply's guys.
 
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