Aleixo Doge Caravan 1996 Heater problem
#1
Aleixo Doge Caravan 1996 Heater problem
Hi my name is Aleixo I have one question:
I have one 1996 Dodge Caravan with heater problem. I asked a some mechanic but I have no answer about the problem. Mey be some one can help me about this problem, I have to drive 1 hour to it get beta but not to hot. The heater not work fine the fan blow little hot air. I put a new thermostat but still not heater much. What the temperatur for the original thermostat: 190, 195 ???? mey be I have to put 200f ???? I had others van with some problem one Plymoth 1994 and one Dodge Caravan with some heater problem. My be I have to replace the heater coil, or clean pipes? I don’t know what to do. Please help me. I’m sorry for my English. Thanks. The winter is here
I have one 1996 Dodge Caravan with heater problem. I asked a some mechanic but I have no answer about the problem. Mey be some one can help me about this problem, I have to drive 1 hour to it get beta but not to hot. The heater not work fine the fan blow little hot air. I put a new thermostat but still not heater much. What the temperatur for the original thermostat: 190, 195 ???? mey be I have to put 200f ???? I had others van with some problem one Plymoth 1994 and one Dodge Caravan with some heater problem. My be I have to replace the heater coil, or clean pipes? I don’t know what to do. Please help me. I’m sorry for my English. Thanks. The winter is here
#2
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Location: Owen Sound Ontario Canada
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The first thing I would check is to see if there is flow thru the heater "coil".
Find the 2 hoses which lead to the firewall and when the vehicle is hot, grab both those hoses with your hands. One should be quite warm and the other should be also quite warm but not as warm as the other one. Make sure the vehicle is warmed up and the heater is ON.
If both hoses are sort of cool then there is no flow.
I think this is what you will find.
Either a blockage of solids in the "coil" or a blockage of air.
I think it will be a blockage of air.
I would go the the auto parts store and buy one of those kits for flushing out the cooling system. They hook up to the heater hoses and you can "clean" the system.
Install the tee in the highest part of the heater hose. This is where air can hide. When filling the system, keep it open untill water flows out and then put the cap on it. It should have no air in it then.
Another benifit of getting the flush kit is that if the "coil" is filling with junk then it may help unclog it. Not likely though.
I would flush the system while I was at it.
Also I would use water while I was working on it because that may not be the problem and several drains of the system may be required while working on it.
If using water do not leave water in it any length of time in the winter because it may freeze and crack the engine.
Feel the heater hoses and get back to us. Also feel the top rad hose and see if it is hot. It should be so be carefull
Find the 2 hoses which lead to the firewall and when the vehicle is hot, grab both those hoses with your hands. One should be quite warm and the other should be also quite warm but not as warm as the other one. Make sure the vehicle is warmed up and the heater is ON.
If both hoses are sort of cool then there is no flow.
I think this is what you will find.
Either a blockage of solids in the "coil" or a blockage of air.
I think it will be a blockage of air.
I would go the the auto parts store and buy one of those kits for flushing out the cooling system. They hook up to the heater hoses and you can "clean" the system.
Install the tee in the highest part of the heater hose. This is where air can hide. When filling the system, keep it open untill water flows out and then put the cap on it. It should have no air in it then.
Another benifit of getting the flush kit is that if the "coil" is filling with junk then it may help unclog it. Not likely though.
I would flush the system while I was at it.
Also I would use water while I was working on it because that may not be the problem and several drains of the system may be required while working on it.
If using water do not leave water in it any length of time in the winter because it may freeze and crack the engine.
Feel the heater hoses and get back to us. Also feel the top rad hose and see if it is hot. It should be so be carefull
#3
First thing I would do would be to check the radiator cap. If you have access to a pressure tester, test the integrity of the cap. I dont recommend a cheap cap from the chain stores. Get a good quality cap. Its cheap insurance. Have you checked for leaks? Check the level and quality of the coolant? If the coolant is old or severly diluted then it will not cool properly. Have any repairs been done to the cooling system lately?
A blockage in the heater core is possible as well. I dont recommend those flush adapters in the heater hoses. Over time those plastic bibs will deteriorate and crack and cause a leak and you will be back to square one. If it were simply air it wouldnt require a flush anyway. The heater hoses are much lower than the radiator neck so this will not get any air out anyway. The best way to get air out is with a tool called an AIR LIFT, but there is an alternative for the DIY'er. Simply leave the radiator cap off and let the engine run for awhile till it gets good and warm. Keep the level up and this will purge the air. Replace the radiator cap and all of your air is gone.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy
A blockage in the heater core is possible as well. I dont recommend those flush adapters in the heater hoses. Over time those plastic bibs will deteriorate and crack and cause a leak and you will be back to square one. If it were simply air it wouldnt require a flush anyway. The heater hoses are much lower than the radiator neck so this will not get any air out anyway. The best way to get air out is with a tool called an AIR LIFT, but there is an alternative for the DIY'er. Simply leave the radiator cap off and let the engine run for awhile till it gets good and warm. Keep the level up and this will purge the air. Replace the radiator cap and all of your air is gone.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy
#4
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Be sure to bleed air out as stated in previous posts. I always make sure I have the heater on when bleeding the system, and cap off, & rev the engine from time to time, for a few seconds to help supply that little extra lift needed for those systems. I will watch the coolant flow back in to the rad at least 3-4 times, with no air bubbles, before I will put that cap back on. In the past, on an 87 Caravan, I had a blocked core, and removed both hoses, ran them to one of those cheap,small pumps you can attach to your drill, and into a pail of CLR, and just kept circulating the CLR through then let it sit overnight, gave it one last flush through the next day, hooked it all back up, and what a welcomed difference there was.