need help!!
#1
12-29-07, 02:10 PM
need help!!
2000 Chevy Silverado. I ran out of gas and after I put gas in the truck it won't start up. The engine turns and revs but it sound like no gas is getting to the engine or something. I was told that my fuel pump or fuel filter could need replacing so I dropped the gas tank and took out the unit in the gas tank that has the floater and filter and 3 hoses attached to it. Does anybody know what might be needed for the truck to restart? Any help would be appreciated.
#2
12-29-07, 02:21 PM
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The fuel pumps on these are notorious for burning out, aspecially when you drive with the gas light on. The pump needs to be submerged in fuel to keep cool.
Replace the pump. There are cheap plastic clips that release the hoses for. If they break, you can get replacement ones at Napa.
The pump and sender are one unit.
Don't drive with the fuel light on because this probably costed you about $250.
Replace the pump. There are cheap plastic clips that release the hoses for. If they break, you can get replacement ones at Napa.
The pump and sender are one unit.
Don't drive with the fuel light on because this probably costed you about $250.
#3
12-29-07, 03:35 PM
Can anyone tell me how to check if the fuel pump is geting electrical power?, at the auto parts told me to connect the pump and see if it makes noise when I turn the truck on, I did that but I don't hear any noise at all, I want to check if the pump is geting electrical current. Any suggestions?
Thankyou.
Thankyou.
#4
12-29-07, 03:48 PM
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Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector and check for power with a test lamp. With ignition on, the pump will run for 2 seconds and thats it. While cranking, the pump is on.
I gotta feeling that your pump is shot, as HotinOKC stated.
I gotta feeling that your pump is shot, as HotinOKC stated.
#5
12-29-07, 05:23 PM
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Ran out of Gas
Originally Posted by ccmarnaj
2000 Chevy Silverado. I ran out of gas and after I put gas in the truck it won't start up. The engine turns and revs but it sound like no gas is getting to the engine or something. I was told that my fuel pump or fuel filter could need replacing so I dropped the gas tank and took out the unit in the gas tank that has the floater and filter and 3 hoses attached to it. Does anybody know what might be needed for the truck to restart? Any help would be appreciated.
Nope, you should have bleed the air out of the gas line before trying to start your engine, bleed looks just like a tire valve somewhere along line on top of engine, push needle in , air in your fuel line will come right out, engine should start right away after that
#6
12-29-07, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LouBazooka
Nope, you should have bleed the air out of the gas line before trying to start your engine, bleed looks just like a tire valve somewhere along line on top of engine, push needle in , air in your fuel line will come right out, engine should start right away after that 
#7
12-29-07, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by HotinOKC
But, his pump is not even running......
#8
12-30-07, 06:40 AM
If air is in the system, wouldn't you, more than ever, get that fuel pump whirring noise when you turn the key on?, from it trying to build pressure?
Poster said he did not get that sound.
Quote:"...at the auto parts told me to connect the pump and see if it makes noise when I turn the truck on, I did that but I don't hear any noise at all, I...."
Poster said he did not get that sound.
Quote:"...at the auto parts told me to connect the pump and see if it makes noise when I turn the truck on, I did that but I don't hear any noise at all, I...."
#9
12-30-07, 11:28 AM
I hear the voice of experience coming in......go under the truck with a rubber mallet and hit the fuel tank 3 or 4 times solidly. Then try the ignition. This tip saved me the $250. My mechanic said I would eventually need a pump, but trying this should dislodge any trash that is stopping it from working internally. It worked just fine, and has continued to work. Counting down til I need the pump, though.
#10
12-30-07, 03:27 PM
Chandler,
Maybe you never had a real problem. Maybe you whacked the plug-in to the fuel pump to a better connection. Or did you check the connection real good first? Although I have heard of it temporarily curing something with the motor by whacking, also. But the fact yours keeps going is what's got me wondering.
Happy New Years to all.
Maybe you never had a real problem. Maybe you whacked the plug-in to the fuel pump to a better connection. Or did you check the connection real good first? Although I have heard of it temporarily curing something with the motor by whacking, also. But the fact yours keeps going is what's got me wondering.
Happy New Years to all.
#11
12-30-07, 08:46 PM
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When I was in the Air Force, we used to whack the bottom of a F-15's external fuel tank with a wheel chock to dislodge debris. 
Your tax dollars at work.
Your tax dollars at work.
#12
12-31-07, 06:24 AM
I traced all the electrical, changed the fuel pump relay, did all the stuff called for normally. Would never have thought of whacking the tank on my own, but it worked. And, Mark, don't make me feel warm and fuzzy about the F15's, you just can't "pull over" and call TowGuy for one of those.
#13
12-31-07, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by chandler
And, Mark, don't make me feel warm and fuzzy about the F15's, you just can't "pull over" and call TowGuy for one of those.
Not to worry my friend, there were no safety issues with this.
The worst that could have happened was the pilot would have a trapped fuel condition, in that case, he would have to hit a refueling tanker in flight, and/or come in and land.
#14
12-31-07, 01:45 PM
OK. I put the tank back together, when I try to bleed the air like you told me,nothing came ut of the bleeding valve, I open the engine key to make the pump start and nothing happened, Is that mean the it is realy the fuel pump?.
Thankyou
Thankyou
#15
12-31-07, 02:06 PM
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I'm pretty sure it's the pump like I said in my first post.
If you have a multimeter or test light, you can see if you have voltage at the pumps wiring harness while it's disconnected.
If you have voltage (12+vdc) then your pump has failed.
If you have a multimeter or test light, you can see if you have voltage at the pumps wiring harness while it's disconnected.
If you have voltage (12+vdc) then your pump has failed.
#16
12-31-07, 03:13 PM
Originally Posted by chandler
Would never have thought of whacking the tank on my own, but it worked.
#17
12-31-07, 05:04 PM
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We do this all the time at the shop. Customers have their vehicles towed in for a no start condition. Rather than push them in, we just whack the tank a few times while cranking the engine. Drive them in the shop, replace the pump, and ship 'em down the road.
If it comes down to having to hit the tank to get your ride started, it's time for a fuel pump.
If it comes down to having to hit the tank to get your ride started, it's time for a fuel pump.
