1998 Ford Windstar Tensioner Pulley broken HELP!!

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  #1  
Old 01-02-08, 06:26 PM
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Unhappy 1998 Ford Windstar Tensioner Pulley broken HELP!!

I own a Windstar 3.8 L The tensioner pulley broke!! [At least I think it is that pulley.] My husband was driving it and he heard a pop, then smelled rubber burning. He drove it home, and a pulley is broken. The belt is still in one piece, but 2 of the ribs are missing.

I graduated with an AS in Auto technology in 1990, but haven't worked in the field since then d/t pregnancy x 3.

When I was 8 mo pregnant, I instructed my dh on how to replace a water pump, I have removed a carb bolt from the top of a piston, and done more brake jobs than I care to count.

I say all this so that you know that I am familar with tools and vehicles.

Obviously, I will be replacing the pulley, I just need to know if I can do it by myself or if it should be done by a pro.

Thanks!!


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Last edited by kwagner_51; 01-02-08 at 06:27 PM. Reason: spelling error
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  #2  
Old 01-02-08, 09:01 PM
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I am not familiar with the tensioner setup on those motors, usually it is just one bolt and a dowel pin that fits into the bracket that the tensioner is bolted to to keep it from turning. They can be fairly easy if the access is there. Do you still have a serp belt tool? It makes the job alot easier. I would get a whole new tensioner, pulley and belt. Make sure you have a routing diagram for the belt, usually they are located on the motor somewhere. You can always map your own out.
If you have a nice warm place to work its worth a shot. Right now its 5 degrees here and ther is no way I would even think about it unless I had a somewhat heated garage. Good luck.

Btw, what does "dh" stand for? I have seen it in many forums and have never figured it out.
 
  #3  
Old 01-03-08, 06:26 AM
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Here's some help, Karen:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

You may also have an idler pulley which is just sort of an extra pulley with no accessory attached that is used for routing purposes. Good time to replace it, too, as the bearings in them - like the tensioner - eventually wear out.
 
  #4  
Old 01-03-08, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Civicminded View Post
Btw, what does "dh" stand for? I have seen it in many forums and have never figured it out.
dh = dear husband, dd= dear daughter and ds= dear son.

I don't have a garage and it is about 5 degrees here too!! What do you mean by a new tenioner? Is it seperate from the pulley?

Thanks!!

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Karen RN

Failure is NOT an option!!
 
  #5  
Old 01-03-08, 02:00 PM
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The tensioner pulley is the actually pulley, the tensioner is the actual spring loaded arm which the pulley bolts to. I would imagine a new tensioner assembly would include a new pulley, though I seem to recall replacing a tensioner on a nissan??? that has the two come seprate.
 
  #6  
Old 01-03-08, 03:18 PM
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Last couple I bought (CarQuest) had the pulley included, but you can buy pulleys by themselves if they fail and the tensioner is still good.
 
  #7  
Old 01-04-08, 10:58 AM
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OK its not the tensioner pulley its just a pulley. However, I can't get it off. The bolt is too long to get it out and I need that bolt to move the tensioner.

Do I have to jack up the engine?

Any othere ideas?

Thanks!!

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Karen RN

Failure is NOT an option!!
 
  #8  
Old 01-04-08, 01:06 PM
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Just a pulley as in an idler pulley as I described before? Can you identify the item you are working on from the diagram on that link page? Should only have a bolt in the center holding it on and I don't recall it needing to have the engine jacked, but it's possible. Many FWD vehicles have insufficient clearance near the inner fender well to remove some items without removing an engine mount and jacking it up. Generally water pump bolts are the ones that are the problem and not tensioner/idler pulley bolts.
 
  #9  
Old 01-04-08, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by the_tow_guy View Post
Just a pulley as in an idler pulley as I described before? Can you identify the item you are working on from the diagram on that link page? Should only have a bolt in the center holding it on and I don't recall it needing to have the engine jacked, but it's possible. Many FWD vehicles have insufficient clearance near the inner fender well to remove some items without removing an engine mount and jacking it up. Generally water pump bolts are the ones that are the problem and not tensioner/idler pulley bolts.

It was the drive belt tensioner pulley. [Number 7 on the diagram] This is how we did it. The bolt was too long to get out without pulling the tenioner.

We used a dog leash and a 22 y/o, [year old] a 17 y/o a 15 y/o, a 13 y/o and me. The 22 y/o stood on the van and leaned back, the 17 y/o and 15 y/o propped one foot on the bumper, one knee supporting the 22 y/o and pulling on the bar tied to the other end of the dog leash. The 13 y/o braced both of his brothers and I put the pulley and bolt back on.



The pulley that broke was connected to the tensioner. I would like to know how a pro would get this dang thing off. Obviously, he wouldn't use 5 people to replace that pulley. We tried to use a pry bar but couldn't get a good grip.

The van is running but I do NOT recommend this job for a DIY unless they have access to 3 other boys or a wench.


Thanks for all your help! It was and is greatly appreciated!!!
 
  #10  
Old 01-05-08, 06:32 AM
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Teamwork!

A little late to try this, but would it have been any easier to have removed the tensioner itself with the pulley intact and then removed the pulley?
 
  #11  
Old 01-05-08, 03:50 PM
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I own a 1995 Windstar LX with a 3.8 L. Friday afternoon while my wife was driving it to pick my daughter up from high school she called and told me she smelled rubber burning and heard a funny noise. I went and looked at it and saw the belt fraided but not bad enough that I couldn't drive it home (only 2 blocks). After a closer inspection once I got it home I found the idler pulley wasn't just broken but rather completely missing, all the way down to the bearings! Today, or rather this evening I realized I'm going to have to jack the engine up to get the bolt out unless.... does anyone know how to remove the entire "drive belt tensioner assembly" that the "idler pulley" ataches to? I can't find a manual anywhere locally, AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, Parks, ect and the Chilton I have doesn't really explain or show you.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801d2c0f.jsp

This link says.. "Place a wrench on the drive belt tensioner bolt and rotate the assembly clockwise to relieve belt tension" OK, but then my question is how do you get the whole assembly off? Nobody anywhereeve at the FORD dealerships round here seems to know or can tell me which way to turn the bolt on the "drive belt tensioner assembly", either clockwise or counter clockwise to get t off?


I can't see it to good (small, dark, ect place) and its really hard turning my head and neck to get to it with a Tracheostomy.

Between my Trach and the nerve damage in my arms and hand from the strokes I've had, I'm really getting, no make I am really P.O'ed at this Windstar right now. Any advice or help anyone can give me before I end up lossing my cool (anymre than I already have thus far) and junking my daughter van?

Thanks in advance for all replies!
JACK
 
  #12  
Old 01-05-08, 06:50 PM
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I drove my van to work today and the belt jumped the tracks and shredded. I had to drive it to a repair shop. I watched as they used a neat tool to move the pulley up. I was able to move it by myself. [I think it is a serpentine belt tool.]

Being the curious type, I asked how they would have taken the pulley off. The mechanic said he would have removed the tensioner. He said that the tensioner only has the one bolt. He also said that the tensioner and pulley are actually one unit!!

So the next time this happens, I will rent the serpintine tool and replace the pulley by taking the tensioner assembly out.

With all the work done yesterday and today, I was only an hour late for work!! I an a Home Health Nurse. My boss called the patient and told her I wasn't going to be there. Immagine her surprise when I knocked on the door an hr later!!

Jack, I hope the added info helps you. That is why I followed up on this thread. I get so annoyed when someone starts a thread and doesn't tell us how it worked/ didn't work!!

Keep us posted please!!! Good Luck!!
 
  #13  
Old 01-05-08, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by chatnjack View Post

This link says.. "Place a wrench on the drive belt tensioner bolt and rotate the assembly clockwise to relieve belt tension" OK, but then my question is how do you get the whole assembly off? Nobody anywhereeve at the FORD dealerships round here seems to know or can tell me which way to turn the bolt on the "drive belt tensioner assembly", either clockwise or counter clockwise to get t off?
What you are probably going to want to do here is remove the whole tensioner assembly as has been mentioned. If this designe requires that you use the tensioner assembly BOLT iteself to turn the tensioner in order to relieve belt tension then you will want to turn the bolt the OPPOSITE way in order to loosen it. Most of the time there is some kind of little square 3/8 or 1/2 hole in the tensioner body itself that allows you to relieve belt tension without using the tensioner bolt.

As a side note, almost all tensioner bolts that I have ever taken off (which is ALOT) loosen counterclockwise just like any other bolt.
 
  #14  
Old 10-02-08, 12:20 PM
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Just changed out my tensioner pully. Here's how...

I've been reading the how to's here for years and finally have a contribution to make! Ford Parts depts only sell the arm and pulley together as an assembly, and its was $87 here in Spokane, WA. However, the arm will generally never fail, and NAPA Auto Parts sells just the pully for $18! It's plastic and has the bearing pre-pressed in place. It took longer to type these steps than it did to swap the pulley
-You'll need 18mm wrench, 15mm wrench (closed end better) and Blue Loc-Tite thread locker.
------------------------------------------------------------
First, make a diagram of the pully route, or locate the diagram in the hood area. (Ya, right... you'll remember later AIO )

Insert a bar into the clearance area between arm and block to take tension off of belt.

Slide belt off end of tensioner pully. You don't need to remove the belt from the other pulleys if this is the only fix you're doing. Just pull it back and tape it to the front brace.

Use a 15mm wrench to break loose the pully bolt while still mounted to the block. Conventional lefty loosy threads. I had to use a 1 1/2" pipe to get the leverage to break it loose. It is Loc-Tited in place.

Don't try to remove bolt pully bolt yet, jest get it loose.

Remove the bolt holding the tenstioner arm from the engine block using a 18mm wrench. (long sockets wont fit in wheel well clearance) the spring tention is all internal, so no worry about things flying apart as you remove the bolt.

Take the whole arm off. Remove the pulley bolt completly and replace with the new pulley.

DON'T SKIP THIS! Apply blue Loc-Tite thread locker to the threads and finger tighten. (you'll properly torque it after remounting the arm to the block)

Apply Loc-Tite to the threads of the arm mount block. Tighten the arm mount bolt really tight.

Tighten the bolt on the pulley really tight now that it's mounted solid.

Use your bar to pull the pully arm back, and slide the belt back in place.

If you can, let it all set for at least 4 hours so the loctite can set before heat and vibrations kick back in.
 
  #15  
Old 01-10-13, 10:45 AM
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sepentine belt pulley

I don't know what type of 98windstar you have, but if it's like mine all you need is a 15mm socket for the pulley and an 18mm for the tensioner itself.
A tensioner pulley tool will make the job a lot easier, they are inexpensive. The bolts for all items are not long-you can do the job without 5extra bodies, just yourself. The bolts will come off fairlly easy. I have done mine many times and you're looking at approx-30 to 40 minutes to do the job.
Good Luck..
 
  #16  
Old 01-10-13, 01:16 PM
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Thread is 4+ years old; might not even own it any more.
 
  #17  
Old 02-24-13, 03:20 AM
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Tensioner question

It seems like this is pretty straight forward, I'm going to remove the belt and then remove the tensioner bolt which will remove the tensioner and pulley assembly which is one piece. what I'm confused about is the easiest way to move the tensioner to take the belt off and then replace. Watching some you tube videos it appears there is a way to put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it clockwise to take off the belt.. but then I read about a tool and people prying the tensioner SO.... what is the best way to get the belt off. And finally my belt is like knew, can I just take it off one of the pulleys so I could remove the tensioner assembly and then the belt re-routing will be easy?
 
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