89 Honda Accord SEi no crank gd batt, starter

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  #1  
Old 03-23-08, 09:11 PM
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89 Honda Accord SEi no crank gd batt, starter

Hi-

My son's car is a 1989 Honda Accord SEi fuel injected, with auto tranny. Last fall, we replaced the starter because the car had a fully charged battery, yet when the key was turned, nothing happened.

The same thing happened yesterday, so I took off the starter and got an exchange from the auto parts store. This time, however, the car still wouldn't turn over. If the key was placed in the on position, however, you could jump across the starter connections with a screwdriver and it would start.

Tonight, when he got to work, (about a 35 minute ride) after he turned the car off, he turned the key and it would start normally! Does anyone have any ideas?? If it had anything to do with the neutral safety switch, it wouldn't start when jumped, would it? I've been thinking it must be the ignition switch, but don't want to buy an expensive part that won't be taken back if that's not it.....any ideas????

Thanks all!
 
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Old 03-24-08, 12:48 AM
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With the Ignition switch, play with it, but try starter relay first.

Swap Relays with same one in fuse box

Safety Neutral, shift between park and neutral while cranking.
 
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Old 03-24-08, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mlass View Post
With the Ignition switch, play with it, but try starter relay first.

Swap Relays with same one in fuse box

Safety Neutral, shift between park and neutral while cranking.
Sorry, but I guess I'm thicker than even I suspected! Swap what with what????

In case you aren't aware, the rebuilt starter came with a new solenoid. I have no idea what you are referring to as the starter relay, let alone that there is one in the fuse box; and that would be under the dash or under the hood?? I've never seen any hint of one....

Aside from that, I've jiggled the hell out of the key and auto tranny shift in Park and Neutral, with no effect...

Thanks....
 
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Old 03-24-08, 07:31 AM
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What he's suggesting is to locate the starter relay either in the fuse panel or in an auxiliary panel under the hood. Rather than immediately buying a new relay for troubleshooting you can usually look at the other relays in the same location and ID one that is the same (same part # printed on the side). Then you swap IT into the starter relay slot and try it.

I'm assuming you've thoroughly checked the battery cables and connections?
 

Last edited by the_tow_guy; 03-24-08 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 03-24-08, 08:51 AM
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"however, you could jump across the starter connections with a screwdriver and it would start."

Most likely means your ignition switch is not doing what its supposed to. Either the cylinder where the key goes ( LC14950 $27.99 at AutoZone) OR the Ignition switch itself ( LS896 $74.99) Here is the link to AZ so you can see the pictures of the items. www.autozone.com Go there input your vehicle info or search for those 2 part numbers.
 
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Old 03-25-08, 12:20 PM
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[QUOTE=dcjredline;1336433]"however, you could jump across the starter connections with a screwdriver and it would start."

Most likely means your ignition switch is not doing what its supposed to.
-------------------------------------------------

That's what I thought, but wanted to check with you folks first.

Yes, Tow Guy, the battery cables and connections are all good. When I turned the key, (before it mysteriously started working again) what's weird is the light for the heat/AC cluster went out or dimmed, but the headlights and dome light didn't dim at all. The battery was reading ~ 12.5 volts. I didn't find anything marked starter relays in the fuse boxes, but I'll take another look when I can get hold of the car again. At the moment however, the %$^&* blanking thing is working just fine!!
 
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Old 03-26-08, 05:35 AM
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here's the definitive test...at the starter solenoid (it's mounted on or part of the starter) is a small black wire with a white tracer. this is the wire that activates the solenoid which in turn, connects the battery to the starter to make it crank.

you have to do this test when the car won't start...put a volt meter or a test light on that black/white wire and have someone try to start it. if the light lights or you read battery voltage, the problem isn't the ign switch, it's in the solenoid...given that you have replaced the starter already...my guess is that you will NOT see any voltage or light the test light which means that it's NOT the starter/solenoid. it's an automatic trans car so it does NOT have a starter relay (only on manual trans vehicles...don't ask me why!) the black/white wire comes from the ign switch, then to the neutral safety switch on the shifter, then to the starter. 6 of one a half dozen of the other to me whether you go to the N/S switch or the ign switch. during crank you should have light (or voltage ) present on that wire at the ign switch...no light=bad switch. if that's ok, go to the N/S switch and you should have light on BOTH sides of that switch during crank. light on one side only=bad N/S switch.
 
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Old 03-26-08, 12:31 PM
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Woo hoo! Thank you Car Guy--I figured there had to be something like that. I've been cussing a blue storm trying to find the GDFing non-existant starter relay also, so I appreciate the help.

I guess it's simply a matter of waiting for it to screw up again, and then we can determine whether it's the NSS or Ign switch.

Thanks again everyone!
 
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