Millenia Codes are back
#1
03-25-08, 10:55 AM
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Millenia Codes are back
After about 50 miles of driving, 3 codes came back on the Millenia (I have since decided not to buy it, but a friend owns it, so I am trying to get more info for him... ). Evidently the car stalls from time to time as well, normally after a period of prolonged idle (5+ minutes) and resuming driving.
The distributor cap was recently replaced, as was the air intake to the air cleaner (which had been cracked).
The mazda codes he gets are
P1195 EGR Boost Sensor Ckt
P1521 VRIS Solenoid '1' ckt
P1792 Barometer Pressure Ckt
Any potential common causes or is this most likely multiple issues?
Thanks
The distributor cap was recently replaced, as was the air intake to the air cleaner (which had been cracked).
The mazda codes he gets are
P1195 EGR Boost Sensor Ckt
P1521 VRIS Solenoid '1' ckt
P1792 Barometer Pressure Ckt
Any potential common causes or is this most likely multiple issues?
Thanks
#2
03-26-08, 05:15 AM
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some asian diagnostics are sketchy due to the fact that they have to be translated...some of the detail gets lost.
here's an example...the diagnostic routine for the egr boost sensor has you checking for 5 volts...fairly typical for a sensor circuit.
the diagnostics for the vris solenoid has you checking for voltage but doesn't say how much...one would assume that since it's a controlled output that it would be battery voltage...but then again, that's assuming.
both of those things are important to proper performance and emissions but won't keep the car from being driven...
on the last code, my search tells me that it's not a baro code but a closed throttle switch code, which would contribute to the stalling situation. that one, while numerically higher and we typically diagnose from lowest to highest, seems more important to me since stalling can cause loss of control and whatnot. i'm not sure this helps you much...but really, that car ought to go to someone with asian experience to be sorted out...perhaps one issue at a time to lessen the "sticker shock"
. with the price of gasoline and 5200 square miles of ice shelf getting ready to fall off of Antarctica, i'm very pro emissions and performance. 
here's an example...the diagnostic routine for the egr boost sensor has you checking for 5 volts...fairly typical for a sensor circuit.
the diagnostics for the vris solenoid has you checking for voltage but doesn't say how much...one would assume that since it's a controlled output that it would be battery voltage...but then again, that's assuming.
both of those things are important to proper performance and emissions but won't keep the car from being driven...
on the last code, my search tells me that it's not a baro code but a closed throttle switch code, which would contribute to the stalling situation. that one, while numerically higher and we typically diagnose from lowest to highest, seems more important to me since stalling can cause loss of control and whatnot. i'm not sure this helps you much...but really, that car ought to go to someone with asian experience to be sorted out...perhaps one issue at a time to lessen the "sticker shock"
. with the price of gasoline and 5200 square miles of ice shelf getting ready to fall off of Antarctica, i'm very pro emissions and performance. 
#3
03-26-08, 05:45 AM
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Thanks carguy,
I found that code as well (regarding the P1792). On the sites that actually listed specific manufacturer codes, however, it always came up with the baro code, when it listed them as more generic I saw that one and a transmission code.
In general overall searches I have done in various forums, it seems like these codes occur hand in hand (2 of the 3 are common together) and are often due to carbon EGR ports in the trottle body (that really need cleaning). I may suggest that to him as a "cheap fix" before putting significant cash into it and see what happens.
The stalling out reminds me of a car in a past life that had an issue with a temp sensor. It would think the car was cold and flood the car out. When he told me it tended to stall after idling and he had just had the air intake hose replaced, I was wondering if it was sensing incorrect air flow and either causing a flooded condition or a too lean condition. I have suggested he check the seal.
I agree, it may be wise for him to bring it into a shop with Mazda experience, it sounds like his current shop is doing little more than swapping parts when it may be a real simple fix.
I found that code as well (regarding the P1792). On the sites that actually listed specific manufacturer codes, however, it always came up with the baro code, when it listed them as more generic I saw that one and a transmission code.
In general overall searches I have done in various forums, it seems like these codes occur hand in hand (2 of the 3 are common together) and are often due to carbon EGR ports in the trottle body (that really need cleaning). I may suggest that to him as a "cheap fix" before putting significant cash into it and see what happens.
The stalling out reminds me of a car in a past life that had an issue with a temp sensor. It would think the car was cold and flood the car out. When he told me it tended to stall after idling and he had just had the air intake hose replaced, I was wondering if it was sensing incorrect air flow and either causing a flooded condition or a too lean condition. I have suggested he check the seal.
I agree, it may be wise for him to bring it into a shop with Mazda experience, it sounds like his current shop is doing little more than swapping parts when it may be a real simple fix.
#4
03-26-08, 06:04 AM
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ok...the more i look, the more i learn. the vris solenoid controls the intake tuning valve on that engine...i'd be surprised if carbon deposits were to blame for that one...carbon deposits on the EGR sytem...most definately a strong possibility there.
on the closed idle switch, it's actually part of the TP sensor...so the sensor can work fine but if the switch is bad, you have to replace the whole thing. the switch basically tells the engine controller when it's time to control idle. again, here like the EGR system, deposit formation in the throttle body, esp on the back and edges of the throttle blade can wreak havoc with correct idle control. so it could be just a maintenance thing as far as the stalling goes...the switch failure may just be coincidental...but it's turning the light on nevertheless.
on the closed idle switch, it's actually part of the TP sensor...so the sensor can work fine but if the switch is bad, you have to replace the whole thing. the switch basically tells the engine controller when it's time to control idle. again, here like the EGR system, deposit formation in the throttle body, esp on the back and edges of the throttle blade can wreak havoc with correct idle control. so it could be just a maintenance thing as far as the stalling goes...the switch failure may just be coincidental...but it's turning the light on nevertheless.
