I recently installed a rebuilt CV shaft in my 1993 Plymouth Voyager in my driveway. I have been searching for the camber and toe settings so that I can set the geometry back to where it should be. Does anyone know what those settings are? I love doing my own work but realize that it will need to go to an alignment shop at some point.

 

I know it's in a manual. But I would just take it in and get it realigned. Let them do it.

 

Camber adjustments are made at the strut to Knuckle bolts. The struts are slotted, allowing In and out movement of the knuckle. There may possibly be "Eccentric Washers" on the "Head of the bolts" . Loosen both "NUTS" and rotate the upper bolt to adjust.

Toe is adjusted by the threaded portion of the tie rod.

As mentioned it is best to take it in and let them do it.

 

sure wish you would have asked first. Very few vehicles need to have the strut unbolted to remove the axle shaft.

 

True, but many times it is easier to "Match Mark the adjusters, and move the strut, than to fight with a Rusted BJ nut.Any kind of "Marking" you put on the parts to ensure reassembly "Orientation" will be gravy for you.

Many of my customers ask why their strut bolts are Bright Orange?....

 

The problem of doing your own alignments is everytime you make an adjustment you have to roll the car back and forth to allow the wheels to reset and nowadays the cars are so low to the ground you have to jack it up to get to the ajustment.
Alignments must be done level and at actual curb hieght.

I use to use a telescopic curtain rod for tow and a level for camber.

I agree with Unclediezel about marking your postitions and counting turns before removing the parts.

 

the camber and toe specs are minute and in degrees...or portions thereof. how would you know in your driveway if you were close or not? you could, for the sake of just getting it somewhere, stand a level against the tire vertically and adjust to level...this would equate to zero degrees camber...it's ballpark but the care will be driveable. you can use a string to do toe as well...same measurement from the inside back of the tire side to side as the front of the tire would be considered zero toe...most all FWD cars run some toe out. it's real easy to get your steering wheel off center by messing with this one...keep also in mind that todays vehicles are VERY sensitive...all suspension and steering a djustments should be made relative to the centerline of the vehicle (this is called thrust alignment) because the rear wheels have a great influence on steering stability and directionality.

it's also tru, you disassembled way more than you needed to for a half shaft...get it aligned at a shop that uses good equipment.