2001 S-10 Blazer 4X4 issue......

Hi all. My 2001 s-10 blazer has dropped into low range on the 4X4 electronic switch and will not come out. Anyone here ever had this problem or know how to resolve this issue? Thanks in advance........ ALAN

 

It's likely the switch or module = need to have it scanned.

 

i'd start with switch. they are notoriously poorly made and became an infamous problem on chevy trucks. esp if you have same one as 2000 or 2001 silverado, which i don't see why chevy will stretch it's ingenuity to design something different for s-10.
mine went off at around 60K miles only. it's a quicky to replace and costs around $65 stealership, probably much less of internet.
otherwise, your servo motor went bad.
i still think it's switch. that's why wise men buy them trucks with manual shifter. no pushbuttons!

 

this may be more testing than you want to do...it could be the switch altho i've not seen alot of problems with them (full size trucks early on...like my 2000 Tahoe which was repaired under warrenty at the Dealership). unfortunately they did have quite a bit of troubles with encoder motors...that's the electric motor that engaged 4WD and low range. were you using 4 wheel low and then it wouldn't come back out? hear any noises? make sure you don't have any pressure on the drivetrain when attempting to change ranges. also try backing up a little...

 

Ok........ I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, reconnected the leads, turned the ignition switch on and off 5 times to reset the computer. Wallah!!! Back to 2WD again. However, I can select the Auto 4X4 button and it works fine, but, I can't go back to 2WD. Reset the computer again and it defaults back to 2WD again. I removed the battery holder while disconnected, and checked the vacuum lines under there. I then pulled the passenger side kick panel off to investigate the TCCM (transfer case control module). I found two wires corroded. Cleaned them up a bit, to no avail. I am pretty certain the TCCM is functioning properly as I can hear it clicking when the key is turned. Currently, I have 2WD or Auto 4X4 as needed. On a further note, the button station has only one button lit up at a time as usual. Although, when depressed, no other buttons will attempt to light up or flash as if trying to change. I do not hear any vacuum leaks outside either. Is there any way to temporarily short the wires in the dashes button station to further troubleshoot the switch and see if, in fact, it is bad before buying a new one. I hate to start throwing parts and money at this without KNOWING, for sure, what the problem is. Thanks again guys!!!............ Alan

 

alan, i looked at your switch, it does look somewhat different from mine in silverado. auto awd button is over to the side, the rest of it looks exactly the same and is, probably, made by the same company and to the same (poor) standards.
so, instead of going through all that time spent tearing your truck apart, why not to call junkyards around and get that switch for some 20 bucks and replace it? for that money it is worth trying. not that i'm telling you what to do, it's your project and your decisions, but it takes 5 minutes to replace that switch. i had mine stuck in all kinds of options, and even drove for few weeks with toothpick jammed to hold 2HI button in place, then just replaced it.
just a suggestion, you have it your way. i am just trying to keep it simple, and if you scope it on the internet, there are TONS of issues with those switches, that's why wise guys opt for chevy trucks with floor mounted lever type 4WD shifter, instead of push button switch.

 

the early switches were not very dependable, but that was corrected...mine was replaced at 9k...now 145k and still the same switch...ditto for my best friend with a 2000 silverado.

 

Ok........ For $30 I figured I'd simply replace the switch and HOPE that this takes care of the problem. I'll post back with the results when I get this thing installed and test it. Thanks for the replies!!!!................ ALAN

 

Does it click when the button is pressed?...There are relays internal on the tccm module, Which can make noise, but not make proper contact. This can be made worse by The encoder Motors that were mentioned, drawing too much current, or dragging , jamming, or physically damaged.

 

Those switches are not the best. I have taken those apart in the past and repaired them. They have little rubber plungers inside of them that push when you activate the switch, Chrysler used the same setup on their factory radios. Actually what happens is the rubber plunger presses against two brass contacts on the PC board which causes a change in capacitance, this in turn tells the control to switch. Take it apart, clean the contacts with an eraser followed by wiping it with alcohol, then wipe the rubber plungers with a q tip and alcohol or brake cleaner, reassemble and you're good to go! If you have ever repaired a TV remote control, it's basically the same thing. Before you remove it from the truck check the lights on it, they are known to burn out too. Radio Shack should have the bulbs, 12V "grain of wheat" bulbs.

 

AMEN to that!
have little doubt it'll cure it.

 

Well gentlemen......... I replaced the switch for $27 and all is well again!!! Thank you, so much, for the time and attention. It was very much appreciated!!!!!............ ALAN

 

I have had that same problem with my 2001 chev s10, all i did was unplug the modual behind the passenger side kick panel and it has worked fine ever since.