87 CRX Questions and Issues - Plz Help

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  #1  
Old 04-08-08, 07:47 PM
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Angry 87 CRX Questions and Issues - Plz Help

ok Ive posted on this car in the past - about some prevenative things being done and such

so far the following mods and maitenance are done

Tires
Rotor Button
Distributor Cap
Plug Wires - etc.
Oil Changed out

Timing Belt was checked over - looked brand new - no stretch marks, no wear marks anywhere - looked great so left it on

Full Alarm System - Power Locks, Trunk, & Windows
All Custom stealth installed so no messy wires anywhere to be seen -- works great!!!!

New Headunit in place and new Door Panel speakers didnt use to high end they are Fosgates only like 300 Watt 3 ways

so far the car is pretty good

All this was done by A Mechanic & I even looked at the Timing Belt - it looked BRAND NEW to me as well - even had the little rubber nipples on it from manufacturing

now for the problems im having

I have only 5 Issues with this Car and Only Issue 1 will actually affect the vehicle itself - the rest are really preference and Cosmetics

Issue 1. Temperatures
Car runs a Bit Hot it seems -

Run the car a Bit around city and the temp goes up fairly high - not sure why
Turn the heater on it comes on down just fine
I sat it idle with it hot and saw the Fan come on but it only ran for like 10 seconds then turned off but the temp needle didnt go down and if it did go down it wasnt enough to see visibly

car blows Perfect Heat and Blows Ice Cold AC
so I am confused -- do CRX's Just run this hot (Above Halfway on the Temp Guage) or is something messed up?
(perhaps I should jump the radiator fan and see how it goes?)

because it runs a notch below halfway until I get into City traffic

----------------

Issue 2. -- The Cars Black Lining/Outer Trim on the windshield has shrank from age - the windshield itself Doesnt Leak its sealed just fine -- but how do I repair or replace this black trim peice - it looks naked without it!!! -- I kept the trim peice is there any way to sort of bring it back to normal size?

Issue 3. -- The Fenders are Cracking down the Sides
The Nose Panel is Cracked and some of the Bolt Holes are actually broken OFF - so its lifting and floating on air while driving at high speeds (Eventually its GOING to break OFF and fly off the CAR!)

whats the easyiest or best way to remedy the panels?
Buy new ones? or can I use like Epoxy Resin to Seal and Stop the Cracks on the Fenders and use it to also Re-Attach the Broken Bolt Holes on the Nose Panel?

Issue 4. -- REAR Quarter Panels!!!!!!
RUST RUST RUST !! - Same old Same Old on any First or Second Gen REX's - The Rear Qtrs are rusting - each panel has One pretty good size rust hole digging in

whats the best way to attack them? - can I just CUT out the Rust and tach some Good steel in and paint over?

I have found Replacement Panels that are done that way they are stamped to fit and you just cut the rust out and toss them in

Issue 5. -- Rear Speakers!!
What Speaker Setup Should I use in the Rear?
I thought of Simply using 2 Normal Door Speakers in Front and 1 Sub in the back (so a 3 Speaker System) All Voice and Instruments from Front and Heavy Base in the Back
will use Cross-Over to have ONLY Low End in the Back

im just not sure how well it will work out any suggestions

Thanks for Reading my long Post - but this car I am hoping will Last for Quite some time from now - since its Low Milage and such
 
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Old 04-09-08, 04:57 AM
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1) verify temp guage against the what the computer reads. guages are not notoriously accurate. it's almost 22 years old, if the radiator is original, it's outlived its normal lifespan.

2) take it to a glass shop and have a new window lace installed, they don't cost that much. no, you can't stretch it back out.

3&4) take it to 2 or 3 body shops and get some opinions about your nose and tail and go from there.

5) talk to some mobile stereo pros in your area.
 
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Old 04-09-08, 05:34 AM
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I'm going to revisit one topic - timing belt. You didn't mention how many miles are on the car or if/when the timing belt has ever previously been replaced. The recommended replacement interval is 60,000 miles and that is an interference engine, aka valve-bender, so if the belt breaks you are in for a repair cost that will exceed the value of the car.
 
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Old 04-09-08, 05:46 AM
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thanks TTG...i meant to bring that up. even a belt that looks fine can give up...it's a maintenance item, not a inspect and replace if necessary.
 
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Old 04-09-08, 01:54 PM
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Timing Belt and such

Timing Belt was inspected by the Mechanic all teeth are clean with no visible wear and tear - i mean I looked at it as well - it looks Brand Spanking new - no dirt, grime, or wear on it at all - like I said before the Timing Belt even had the rubber nipples on the belt from it being manufactured

plus the Plug Wires were not Stock either so someone has previously done work in this car - which leads me to also think that the car runs hotter because someone has put in a New Higher Temp thermostat in the past -- that is my educated Guess -- because it has NEVER overheated

Block was Pressure Tested, Coolant was Chem Tested - no oil or water in it - so I know the Motor is Solid

im fairly comfortable with the motor being Solid Condition

I have Direct Replacement Parts from Honda - Belt, Waterpump, and Thermostat sitting in the Trunk - I think at the end of this year I will go ahead and toss it all in

But like I said the only issue I have that bothers me is the higher temperatures - and seeing the Fan turn on for only about 10 seconds then going off at a Above Half Temp Reading on the guage

Oh and to mention it

Milage on car is -- 103780
which if you change timing every 60,000 or so that would explain why the belt looks brand spanking new - because it probably IS brand new the guy might have changed it at or around the 60K mark


Anyways now to the issues and advice

"1) verify temp guage against the what the computer reads. guages are not notoriously accurate. it's almost 22 years old, if the radiator is original, it's outlived its normal lifespan."


I dont have any Reading Equipment for the ECU on this Vehicle - so im not sure what to do

like I said it gets hot in city traffic but it Doesnt OVER-Heat
just goes a little higher then I like seeing

"2) take it to a glass shop and have a new window lace installed, they don't cost that much. no, you can't stretch it back out."


I actually out of sheer luck stumbled onto more information on this area -- this peice is just the weather stripping off the outside of the windshield - easy fix you pull the old glue/sealant off -- lay new down and place the new stripping over it - let it cure and viola new seal and stripping

"3&4) take it to 2 or 3 body shops and get some opinions about your nose and tail and go from there."

Well Nose Panel, Fenders, and Possibly Quarters may be comming from a another Junked CRX - I for some reason in the past thought I cant do that becase the color is wrong

well DuH! you can SAND and Paint them to match so it doesnt matter what color they are when you get them LOL -- just change the Darn Color to match the car

so yea I should be able to snag these peices with no issues and for less then the 520.00 Quote I got from another Company

I hope to have this fully restored before December and I will be placing a Body Kit with new Bumper, Sides, and Rear Bumper, as well as Fender Flares on it sometime - I will eventually have it re-painted as well but thats gonna cost me a bit more for a decent paint job

it all depends on how she runs through this year -- if all goes well I will invest fully - but until then main things are Best Sound System I can get , and some minor appearence fixes

Atleast you can Transfer Sound Systems so thats an investment that can last for a very Long time

anyways - thanks for your advice -- keep it comming
 
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Old 04-09-08, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SangrelX View Post
But like I said the only issue I have that bothers me is the higher temperatures - and seeing the Fan turn on for only about 10 seconds then going off at a Above Half Temp Reading on the guage
like I said it gets hot in city traffic but it Doesnt OVER-Heat
just goes a little higher then I like seeing
But the gauge is much lower when on the highway? If so, that shows the circulation is all there. If it wasn't, it would overheat on the highway, too. The only difference is in traffic you are relying on that fan as sole means of cooling. At highway you do not need it. So it comes down to the fan issue.
 
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Old 04-09-08, 06:58 PM
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yupper

Yea -- on highway its staying low -- it just runs hotter during city - stop and go traffic

-- I guessed the circulation was good because the heat was blowing perfect hot air

now the Fan comes on and runs for a roughly 10-12 seconds then Stops

however I am confused on something

If the cooling fans are controlled by Temp Sensors and if someone DID put a high temp thermostat into this car

wouldnt that make the fans pretty much turn on and stay on all the time -- because the car is allowed to get to higher temperature then the default sensors would be set for?

or do people change sensors around when installing a higher temp thermostat?

because im trying to narrow it down - is it a sensor issue or a thermostat issue?

perhaps someone DID install a Higher running thermostat and they didnt adjust the cooling fan controls right - so they turn on way to late and the motor heats to high

im just not sure how these Motors control their cooling fans -- most engines ive seen use the ECU and Sensors

but all the info Im finding about this car just say it has a Fan Controller and Sensors? -- if thats so perhaps the Fan Controller can be adjusted to Turn on sooner

let me know
Thanks
 
  #8  
Old 04-09-08, 09:06 PM
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most cars will run a little warmer when driving in the city it is pretty normal as long as your fan actually cycles on and off every once in awhile it is probably working correctly.
dont believe this car has any data reading capability so you probably cant read the temp by hooking it to a scanner you might be able to get a rough idea of the temp by using a laser temperature gun at the upper hose while im unsure exactly what temp honda would have the fan to kick on would expect engine temp will be 220-230 range before the fan is even turned on,and this is normal for most vehicles.
the cooling fan is pretty much the only thing providing airflow to the radiater in any slow driving or stopped conditions and if its programmed to come on at 220 -230 it will run hotter versus driving on the highway where you have constant airflow and the temp can be regulated by the thermostat if needed.
 
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Old 04-09-08, 09:15 PM
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hrm

right thats sort of what i figured

but the car gets hotter sitting idle - so its like the thermostat is a higher temp one and letting it heat up higher before opening up

then it kicks the fan on for 10-12 seconds and the fan stops

I have not actually tested this yet without running the heater to keep temps down -- because when I notice it moving up I actually roll down the windows and turn the heater on full blast and this brings the temp needle back to the normal spot

so should I perhaps start the car and idle it for 20 mins and see where the temp actually stops when the vehicle is not being used at all?

I mean there has to be something I can do to Verify wether its a Thermostat thats doing the temperatures or perhaps radiator issues? or this car might just be Stock to run hot

I cant find the average temperature information online for this vehicle anywhere

and i was told by a friend that he has never seen any of the crx's go as warm as this one has been

let me know
Thanks
 
  #10  
Old 04-09-08, 09:52 PM
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its not the thermostat you could test the fan by idling the car would probably drive it for 10 minutes first then do the test might want to get a laser temp gun if you want to monitor temperatures but the fan should come on and once the engine cools off just as little as 10 degrees it will kick back off.
while you can probably get a lower temp thermostat you probably wouldnt notice any difference on the temperature of your engine in warm weather.
 
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