9 Mountaineer front wheel bearing nub replacemnet

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  #1  
Old 04-20-08, 06:59 AM
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9 Mountaineer front wheel bearing nub replacemnet

Hi,

I have worn front bearings on my 97 AWD Mountaineer. This bearing is a sealed hub unit. Is this something that a weekend mechanic can do or will I need special tools?
The hub itself runs about $150 per unit and I'm hesitant tp purchase if it's soemthing that I cannot do.

Thaks,
 
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  #2  
Old 04-20-08, 09:30 AM
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Explain "worn". I'm curious why you feel that you need to replace the bearings.
 
  #3  
Old 04-20-08, 06:12 PM
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Thanks for responding:
I recently had the ball joints professionally replaced (about 8 months ago) and was told at that time that the bearing were going. The front end had been a bit noisy (similar to aggressive truck tires) but I haven't had the truck for that long and never thought it was anything more than the AWD system. I believe the mechanic is trustworthy (coaches in my brother's softtball league). The front end groans especially on I believe the passangers side. It's getting louder and louder by the month. The front end feels like it has some friction and resistance. I'm starting to get some vibration that I can feel at the steering wheel. This is an all wheel drive Mountaineer. I'm honestly assuming that it's the bearings but I could be wrong. The tires are all new and balanced.
I jacked up the truck and tried to move the tires from side to side but there was little movement. I also have a 94 Explorer with serviceable bearings and it was easy enough to determine worn bearing but this truck is different.
Any assistance would be appreciated.

thanks,
 
  #4  
Old 04-20-08, 06:59 PM
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They should be in steering knuckle. Most are pressed in. I can not say for sure if they have a lock ring on back side.
You can do it your self,just depends on you.
 
  #5  
Old 04-20-08, 07:02 PM
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well, jackstand the wheel in question, and rock wheel hard back and forth vertically, with one hand on the uppermost and the other hand on the lowermost points of the wheel. got any play? that would have been the 1st indicator of hub assy bearing going bad.
i understand you have 4wd vehicle and, most likely, IS front end, i doubt you'll have SA front on montaineer. thus, you have halfshafts in the front, right?
in general then, your design is pretty standard and very similar to what i have on my silverado 4wd. i have replaced driver side hub assy about 1.5 mth ago, all by myself, and it took me roughly half an hr to do, considering that i reinstalled brake shield backwards and had to disassemble it and re-assemble it. does that sound appealing enough?
what i had to do was to find the right size deep socket to remove halfshaft assy nut. it was 36mm i believe. i found that local schucks rents those free of charge in a set. cheatpipe and very good quality 3/4 inch long extension drive did the job. the rest of it was piece of cake.
losen lugnuts/jackstand the side/remove wheel/remove halfshaft nut cap(flathead screwdriver to start, tap it gently between the hub and cap ridge, then it comes out very easy)/jamm prybar between the studs and floor so that hub does not spin/remove halfshaft nut/remove brake caliper and hang it on a coathnager on the spring/remove ball joint nut/take midsize hammer and weck vigorously few times on the ball joint knuckle, untill it pops out/press with your foot down on control arm to desengage ball joint/grab hub on the sides and, pressing with your thumbs against drive shaft, slide hub off the halfshaft. in my case, i had to remove 3 bolts holding hub assy to steering knuckle, yours might be somewhat different. things to watch for is be carefull with halfshaft and not to pull on it so that CV joint comes apart. also, i had to remove brake pads bracket and brakes splash shield.
it was very simple job, and i was surprised myself how fast it went. but i have all the tools on hand. oh, yeah, and i had to unplug ABS sensor and reconnect one that came with new hub. removing hub nuts was tricky, as their heads were backed by halfshaft, so i had to sort of keep pushing halfshaft inward, thus creating gap between halfshaft and bolt heads. 2 were ok, one was harder to do, but not too bad.
you may have several problems: - halfshaft nut stuck, then use ample spray of Quickwrench or any penetrating oil, and let it sit for a while to losen up. - hub stuck in steering knuckle. same treatment. gentle taps with rubber mallet circumferencially might help to losen it up.
but main concern is not to seperate CV joint. i did not have to remove tierod end.
hub was not pressed into steering knuckle, just slightly snugly fitting in and slid right out. 76000 miles.
 
  #6  
Old 04-20-08, 07:31 PM
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yeah...grab at 6 and 12 o'clock to check for bad bearings...jacked up of course.

you do NOT have to disengage the ball joint to replace a hub and bearing assy.
 
  #7  
Old 04-20-08, 07:40 PM
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you do NOT have to disengage the ball joint to replace a hub and bearing assy.
Just a note if I'm thinking correctly......

On the "Inside" of the knuckle will be 3 Bolts that hold the bearing in place......If I remember correctly they are 15 mm 12 Point.......
 
  #8  
Old 04-20-08, 08:38 PM
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here's chilton instructions. apperently, "spindle" is pressed into knuckle. how hard is the bond to break - i don't know. sounds like good news for ford, bad news for you



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Old 04-21-08, 04:03 AM
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Thanks to all;

I'll take my time and give it a shot; I called Advance Auto Parts they rent the socket that I will need to remove hub nut. I'll let you know how I make out.
 
  #10  
Old 04-21-08, 07:21 AM
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One more question;

Once the locking hub nut is removed will I need a puller to remove the hub from the spline? Also once removed will I need to have the new hub pressed on or will it slide far enough in so that I can catch the locking nut and press it back on?
 
  #11  
Old 04-21-08, 07:26 AM
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the axle shaft will slide pretty easily thru the hub once the nut is removed...altho you may need to hit it with a hammer to get it going. be careful that you don't hit the threaded part.

the hub is bolted to the knuckle (spindle) from behind according to uncle diesel....the axle nut only holds the axle in the hub.
 
  #12  
Old 04-21-08, 11:47 AM
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1. do not even think about hitting halfshaft with a hammer. with all respect to other posters, it's a heat treated metal, and 2 things happen: -it crackes/splinters; - threads go smooshed and good luck after that. you either use a rubber mallet or, even better, find one of them yellow tipped ones - the yellow tip is very hard polyurethane, and you can weck with it all you want on metal without damaging it. if you just have no choice but regular steel hammer - place a piece of hard wood against the driveshaft and weck it all you want to.

2. if the spindle is bolted to the knuckle, why does chilton say "pressed into the knuckle"? pressed is pressed, bolted is bolted. if it's bolted - which would have been blessing for the guy - then chilton would have had directions how to remove spindle from the knuckle using bolts. all they have is how to remove spindle/knuckle assembly. i am afraid is IS pressed into the knuckle, and to disassemble it, a press is required. i'd have to see how it's made to have it figured is the 2 pieces can be seperated by simply hammering spindle out of the knuckle, using a VERY LARGE socket. knowing ford, i am just shaking my head...
buddy has 96 ranger 4wd and the best price for that assembly, off junkyards, is $400 plus. i'd definitely have the game plan worked out down to the slightest step, before tearing it all apart. good luck and all the best.
 
  #13  
Old 04-21-08, 12:18 PM
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i can't answer your questions about why chilton says what it says...i don't have a chiltons manual.

hub and bearing assemblies are bolted on on FWD and 4WD vehicles because a pressed in hub could come apart. According to my service information, it's bolted on.

To the original poster, please have a look at your hub assembly and let us know if it has bolts holding the hub assy to the knuckle.

BTW...a spindle and steering knuckle are the same thing.
 
  #14  
Old 04-21-08, 03:41 PM
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1. do not even think about hitting halfshaft with a hammer. with all respect to other posters, it's a heat treated metal, and 2 things happen: -it crackes/splinters; - threads go smooshed and good luck after that. you either use a rubber mallet or, even better, find one of them yellow tipped ones - the yellow tip is very hard polyurethane, and you can weck with it all you want on metal without damaging it. if you just have no choice but regular steel hammer - place a piece of hard wood against the driveshaft and weck it all you want to.
I'll probably catch hell for this...but ...

In the center of the Half shaft is a "Dimple" for this purpose. Hammer and a junk phillps screwdriver and it is out in 5 smacks..Without damage to the threads.
 
  #15  
Old 04-21-08, 05:57 PM
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I do appreciate all the inputs received; I will take it slow and determine exactly how the hub is attached to the spindle. I have a Hayes Manual and must admit it's not at all detailed for this truck although it is the correct manual for a 97 Mountaineer. Unfortunately I could not download the Chilton attachment but I'm sure it's better than my manual. Due to family illness I won't be starting the job until Friday or Saturday and will update over the weekend.

Thanks,
 
  #16  
Old 04-21-08, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by fd19993 View Post
I Unfortunately I could not download the Chilton attachment but I'm sure it's better than my manual.
Thanks,
PM me, and i'll send you my email and we'll get those chilton pages for you one way or another.
also, you can get them at any local library.
if you are buying your spindle at autozone, they should be able to pull Alldata repair guide on how to seperate it from knuckle. it is not a problem to remove knuckle/spindle assy. takes virtually 10 minutes to do. problem is - if the sucker is pressed into the knuckle - to seperate it from the knuckle. THAT might take some scouting and prep work, in case it just must be done using a press.

ok, i think i have answer to the dilemma. look at this:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/4WDrive/Mer...HS00006/641221
that should be your hub/spindle. so, just looking at it, it's exactly the same design, with slight variation, as my silverado. it's then a nice and easy job. i did not even have to remove knuckle, just unbolt it from behind - read my first post - and slide it off the knuckle. piece of cake. silly me, should have done it long time ago.
 
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