'03 Honda Accord Brake Pads

I'm replacing pads rotors etc on my '03 Accord. I carefully cleaned all rust from all sliding surfaces with files and emery cloth. I replaced the stainless steel slide shims with new and applied the proper lube.
Now I am able to get the new pads in the bracket okay but they seem very tight. I sort of had to force them in but there is absolutely no wiggle to them.
My question is just how tight should they fit in order to move freely back off the rotors when no braking is applied.
It would be real simple to just hit the ears on the pads with a grinder a tiny bit to get some more slack. I'm just not sure how much free play there should be but they seem tight to me as is.
As I stated above all rust was removed from these surfaces right down to the shiney steel.
Thanks in advance

 

don't hit them with a grinder, as a mater of fact you probably should not use file or emerycloth on them as you risk removing to much metal, did you match them up with the old pads to be sure of proper parts? when you install them did you clean dust out of boot area before pushing the piston back into the caliper? sliding side to side ie with the rotor is what causes brake squeal so a snug fit is good. i would lube metal to metal contac points sparingly with a good antiseaze compound and after installation and very carefull break in. check the rolling resistance to make sure the pads are not sticking, the pads do not really move back off of the rotor when the pedal is releast. they just don't squeeze it.

 

I didn't file or otherwise clean up the new pads. I cleaned the caliper and other heavy steel of old rust so they would mate well with new slide shims. And I did apply anti-sieze to these surfaces. Also cleaned and lubedsthe slide pins.
Without using a micrometer the new pads seem to be a good match. They are just awfully tight when forced in to position. By force, I don't mean a hammer or anything. I did have to push very hard using my hands and when they finally got into place they seemed really tight.
Thanks

 

Not a Grinder by any means.......But if you have a Wire wheel, Just scuff the PAINT off of the "EARS". Too much play, they will rattle around while the car is rolling, Not enough play will cause them to drag. I would assume if you can get them in place with just "Bare Hands", without the aid of a hammer, Your good to go.....

 

Thanks. I think that is what I'll do, at least on one side. One side is "very firm" and is probably ok. The other, to my way of thinking, is a tad too tight. I think by taking off about 1000th, or so, of an inch might be better. As you say just the paint or maybe even a burr that I missed.

 

caliper brecket should have alloy clips where brake pads are mounted on it. remove the clips and clean them with either brake parts cleaner or any good solvent. please, never again use file on any of those parts. soft wirebrush is plenty.
reinstall those clips and you should be fine. next step you should do is to lubricate those clips, where they are contacted by brake pads, with caliper grease. also, pull out caliper guides and clean/lubricate them. i always lube the antisqueek shims on the back of the pads, where they contact caliper.
with all that done, caliper should slide on rotor/guides back and forth, maybe 5-6 mm, from hand pressure. if it's not, you need to find the problem.
also, take a close look at the old brake pads. it is said that if the inner one is worn more than the outside one, caliper is binding on return, or release, whatever word you want to use.

 

Maybe I wasn't clear. In my first post I said that the alloy clips were new. I didn't file them. What I filed/sanded was the accumulated pitted rust that was below them on the bracket. The caliper slide pins are fine, all cleaned and lubed. My problem, or rather, question, is that the pads seemed to tight going in to the bracket.( top and bottom)
I just didn't know how tight they should be.

 

[QUOTE=
I just didn't know how tight they should be.[/QUOTE]

under any circumstance, caliper should move freely back and forth on guides.
i have no doubt you did everything right.
indeed, some pads fit snugger than others. sometimes you can find after-stamping "ridge" on the bracket grove on the brake pad, usually shave those off. sometimes the surface of the above mentioned grove is not smooth, has tiny hard "bubbles" on it, you can remove those. those little clips are supposed to "spring load" the gap beween the brake pad and bracket, to prevent clicking, when brake pad moves along with rotor, while braking.
as far as caliper moves - you are good. i, personally, have a certain level of tolerance, after which i return items if they need too much modifications to be done to fit right. esp on brakes. it's my life and life of others in it. it either fits right, or screw those who made it and let them have it.