distributor cap

I have a 98 Honda Accord, but I don't think that is necessary for the answer to my question. I've changed a distributor cap before, on an older car, but when reading the book on this one, I read something I don't understand. If the terminology isn't right let me know and I'll get the book. Right now I'm just going by memory. I know that you want to make sure the right wires are on the right connectors. But when it talked about lining up the rotor, it said "turn it over a couple of times to line it up" but then a little bit further on, it said "don't turn the crankshaft or you'll ruin everything" (loosely translated) Pardon my ignorance, but these sound like the same thing to me. When I turn the key to start the engine, it "turns over", but I thought that if the engine started, the crankshaft was moving. Sorry for my ignorance. Maybe if the car actually moves then the crankshaft moves? I really don't know. I know this is an easy fix, and I can do it myself, but I don't want to louse it up. Can someone please clarify this issue for me?

 

I think you may be confusing sections on the distributor cap and the distributor itself. If you remove the entire distributor, then it would be a bad thing to crank the engine. That would necessitate some time-consuming steps to realign the distributor properly with the crank/cam. What you need to do is rotate the engine until the TDC mark on the crank pulley is aligned with the indicator (usually a metal pointer or a cast-in ridge on the timing cover). At that point the distributor rotor should be pointed at the #1 cylinder. There's a catch, though; you could be 180 degrees off. So as a precaution what you can do is remove the #1 spark plug and rotate the crank by hand (breaker bar/ratcher and a socket on the crank pulley bolt) until you feel compression with your thumb over the hole. The next time the marks line up you are at TDC on the #1.

 

Thanks! I'll check it again. I appreciate the help. Here's one more question. The previous owner, a very meticulous friend, said that he's always used, and recommends, Honda parts, not rebuilds or look-alikes. Do I have to go to the dealership for that? Or do I have that choice at the Auto parts shop?

 

You'll get opinions both ways on that. As for me, I can't remember the last time I bought a part of any kind from a dealer (including the radiator I just had to put in my wrecker - $600 dealer, $350 aftermarket; saved $250). there are some things that are dealer only, but for routine stuff any reputable parts store , CarQuest, NAPA, etc, will have what you need.

 

Thanks for the info, I appreciate the help.

 

TTG.,, Hate to give you a quick head up IIRC i know most honda engines are not freewheeling engine at all so if the timming belt slipped or snapped it can really bent the valves or worst.

Some of the honda engine disturbutors are directally run from camshaft itself so becarefull when you take the distubtor cap off sometime the rotor cap can actally come off espeally a worn out rotor do that.

As long you dont touch the main distubstor bolt[s] you are ok with that unless your service manual specfically stated that check the timming after install the new cap [ it will be a wise idea anyway to make sure it is on the mark even with computer contolled some case it can show up some issue with it { this is true with chain driven camshaft and distubtors }]

Merci,Marc

 

Me bad. I had V-8 Chevy on the brain. Wasn't thinking about a direct cam drive distibutor (like the one on wife's previous Camry).