Hey, I know I'm not a mechanic so therefore I don't act like it but I also know I am able to do many vehicle repairs as I have in the past. I have completed task from changing brakes, alternators, full tune ups, starters, oil changes and now I am in need of new front rotors. I was wanting to know if anyone could tell me what is (1) the reason for rotating rotors and what is meant by that exactly? Is that just like rotating tires? (2) Can you flip rotors over and use the other side? (3) What are some of the make sures when it come to replacing the rotors? I'm driving an 2004 F-150. I know it may sound like I should let some pros do the job because of my unfamiliarity but, what are we on doityourself for?

 

never really heard of rotating rotors as the brake pads are on both sides of each rotor so you are already using both sides and when they are worn below width specifications and cant be turned by a lathe to true up you just replace them.
shouldnt be that bad of a job if youve changed brake pads im sure you can install new rotors as most vehicles just slide off with a little persuasion with a hammer after removing the caliper and mounting bracket. might try autozones website to see if they have procedures for your specific vehicle or see a manual.

 

Thanks BeJay that's the info I was looking for.

 

that's true. some topics are not welcomed, but indeed - rotors are fairly easy.

i agree with the previous poster. never heard of rotating rotors. tires, yes. though, there might be some to it. try it and see what happens.

the way brakes work is, basically, slowing vehicle down by transfering inertia into heat, utilizing force of friction between brake pads and rotors. during this procedure, metal heats up. as braking is never done totally equally and evenly all over the surface of a rotor, you start getting hot and hotter spots on rotor. eventually, it warps - develops minute "hills and valleys" so to speak, or goes from perfectly flat to slightly "crooked" shape. this results in 1. uneven braking 2. shake in steering wheel during braking.

by turning rotors with lathe, mechanic pretty much resurfaces rotor and trues it back to acceptable standard.

all you need to do is to remove rotors. find proper procedure in chilton manual/local library. please, do not use hammer on rotors. use mallet. most of them come of just fine by themselves. you'll find rust where rotor mates to the hub, clean it, and apply antiseeze to the surface before installation, so that next time it comes off as easy.
some cars have 2 holes with threads tapped in them in rotors. those are to assist with removal. you screw in 2 bolts of the proper size, and they pry rotor away from the hub. mallet always did the job faster though.
then bring your rotors to the best priced shop that turns them. many parts stores do same. call around. spare vehicle comes handy, as your truck will be disabled inbetween.
safety, safety, safety! jackstand securily. i, also, removed rotors one at a time, when i was away from my jackstands, and simply remounted wheels back so that i could lower car down on them.
if your rotors warp fast and notoriously, replace them with slotted ones. you'll never have to turn them again. before mounting rotors back, ask us how to break in rotors for longer life.

 

The term you are looking for is "RESURFACING " the rotors.

Be careful here , as some Manufacturers recommend that their rotors not be resurfaced. Ford is one of them. It has to do with the material and process that is used to cast the rotors at the factory. I've had mixed results, some turn out fine, others pulsate and shake worse than before I took them off.
Remove the caliper, and Mounting bracket. Squirt some penetrating oil around the center hub, and into the stud holes, Then around the back of the rotor.....most rust accumulation will occur between the Rotor hub and the bearing flange. with a hammer and wooden block, smack the rotor a few times and it will pop off.

 

good to know, thank you. ford's being ford. another reason to swap them to aftermarket slotted ones.
no offence to ford, honda has s..... metal in its rotors either. 15K miles - turn rotors, and so on.. got tired, got slotted, 70K miles down the road sold the car, never touched them again.

 

I think "resurfacing" is not a proper term for turning rotors. Resurfacing implies you are adding new material when infact you are just lathing down old.

 

Absolutely True......

I usually refer to it as CUT ....but the new generation of younger people Now take this as "Slotting " their rotors.

While on the subject of terminology, One of my Smart- Aleck Lube boys, when asked to rotate tires, rolled the car back two feet and said ---"See ..the tires have been "ROTATED"

 

Hey, Hey, Hey, I didn't know this world was available but I'm glad the spirits brought me across it. Thanks to all and anyone who has anymore advice is more than welcome to throw it at me. I attempt to do most of my laboring myself I like to consider myself a pro-ameteur. This way I learn through my trial and error and I also save some quarters making more available for the $5 gas (well its coming). Thanks all.

 

FWIW, with the price of aftermarket replacements nowadays a lot of people are simply replacing them vice turning the old ones. I paid $26/ea for the ones I recently replaced on wife's Camry, had the entire front brake job accomplished in under an hour, and never had to leave the house from start to finish. The new ones came already trued and balanced.

 

Thank to all who assisted with my rotor change. It actually went pretty well. Thank You.

 

ok so this is the thing. there is a large bolt on the outside of the rotors in the middle. I was told to take that off. the problem is I don't know what size of socket to use. I know it's mettric but I don't want to spend a forton on a set that i only need one socet from. the cheepest one is like $300.00 and i really can't do that with all the work i have to do on the car. can anyone help me get this fixed?