91 park ave antilock issues
#1
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91 park ave antilock issues
seems that the brakes are still soft and will depress tom the floor slowly. have bleed the brakes at the cylinders, seem there is still air in system?
how do you bleed an abs system?
how do you bleed an abs system?
#2
Sounds like a defective Master cylinder.......
ABS doesnt use a fluid supply of its own, so unless the "Hydro" unit were leaking, it shouldnt disrupt fluid travel.
Starting with the furthest wheel from the M/C---(Right rear)..left rear, front right , then front left.
If you want to eliminate the ABS as a culprit, in the fuse box is a fuse for the ABS. Remove it and drive the car. If the symptoms are resolved...blame the ABS...If not, replace the fuse and continue with a Service brake Issue.
ABS doesnt use a fluid supply of its own, so unless the "Hydro" unit were leaking, it shouldnt disrupt fluid travel.
Starting with the furthest wheel from the M/C---(Right rear)..left rear, front right , then front left.
If you want to eliminate the ABS as a culprit, in the fuse box is a fuse for the ABS. Remove it and drive the car. If the symptoms are resolved...blame the ABS...If not, replace the fuse and continue with a Service brake Issue.
#4
well, try this. start your engine, shut down all the appliences to avoid any noises, and press on the brake pedal firmly. it goes down, right? IS THERE A HISSING NOISE along with the process?
usually, pedal going down like this means that your brake booster is leaking air. most of the time you'll hear wooshing or hissing noise along.
i'd start with locating your brake booster and the vacuum hose that goes from it to the valve cover, make sure that hose is not slipped off, crooked, or damaged.
there's no other test that i know off how to check brake booster. it just looks like it.
it's a serious job to replace. if you determine that's the culprit, and get a new one, you MUST do one thing. it'll have a small pushrod in the middle that engages into the master cylinder. or there will be some other ADJUSTABLE connection between the two, thus get the manual protocol for this. if you don't have that adjustment done right, you'll end up with brakes that are loose, or ones that constantly clamp the rotors and burn them out. been there.
of course, unless you have some sort of electrical or "hydraulic" booster......
usually, pedal going down like this means that your brake booster is leaking air. most of the time you'll hear wooshing or hissing noise along.
i'd start with locating your brake booster and the vacuum hose that goes from it to the valve cover, make sure that hose is not slipped off, crooked, or damaged.
there's no other test that i know off how to check brake booster. it just looks like it.
it's a serious job to replace. if you determine that's the culprit, and get a new one, you MUST do one thing. it'll have a small pushrod in the middle that engages into the master cylinder. or there will be some other ADJUSTABLE connection between the two, thus get the manual protocol for this. if you don't have that adjustment done right, you'll end up with brakes that are loose, or ones that constantly clamp the rotors and burn them out. been there.
of course, unless you have some sort of electrical or "hydraulic" booster......