Bleeding the Clutch on a 95' Ranger
#1
06-04-08, 11:06 AM
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Bleeding the Clutch on a 95' Ranger
The clutch system on a lot of Rangers (and probably some other models also) does not bleed correctly with the 'standard' procedures...even when the Haynes or Chilton tells you it's right.
Disconnect the clutch fluid line from the concentric slave cylinder. Remove the rubber vacuum line from the brake booster and attach a long, clear tube to the hose. Run it around the outside of the vehicle to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder (after putting the appropriate closed end wrench on the screw). Makeing sure the clutch fluid in the reservoir doesn't fall low, pump the clutch about 20 times and start the engine in neutral. Loosen the bleeder screw and let the vacuum suck out the fluid/air. Have an assistant watch the top of the line to make sure ABSOLUTELY NO fluid gets to the engine (That would be a very bad thing). Tighten the screw and have the assistant remove the tube to drain into a ready container. Repeat this process several times. Just remember not to let the fluid level drop or you'll be bleeding that clutch all night.
Disconnect the clutch fluid line from the concentric slave cylinder. Remove the rubber vacuum line from the brake booster and attach a long, clear tube to the hose. Run it around the outside of the vehicle to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder (after putting the appropriate closed end wrench on the screw). Makeing sure the clutch fluid in the reservoir doesn't fall low, pump the clutch about 20 times and start the engine in neutral. Loosen the bleeder screw and let the vacuum suck out the fluid/air. Have an assistant watch the top of the line to make sure ABSOLUTELY NO fluid gets to the engine (That would be a very bad thing). Tighten the screw and have the assistant remove the tube to drain into a ready container. Repeat this process several times. Just remember not to let the fluid level drop or you'll be bleeding that clutch all night.
#2
06-04-08, 11:20 AM
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is this supposed to be a response to someone's post or just posting useful information?
while using engine manifold pressure is creative, i'm not sure it's worth the hassle...
while using engine manifold pressure is creative, i'm not sure it's worth the hassle...
#3
06-04-08, 08:47 PM
1st concern would be why would you disconnect the supply line from the slave cyl ?
my advice if you was to use vacuum to aid in bleeding this system is to use a hand help pump ,(i guess you could use manifold vacuum but i wouldnt use the brake booster line , choose a smaller line ) but in any case leave the supply line attached to the slave cylinder , hook a vacuum pump to a sealed container , then run a line from the sealed container to the bleed port , no need to pump the pedal when using vacuum , just crack the bleed port and pull fluid into the sealed container .
note: a clear tube from the bleed port to the container is useful as you can watch for bubbles , and when you are pulling clear fluid close the bleed port .
after saying all that you still will find the clutch slave cylinder will be hard to bleed .......a trick most of us ford techs use , is simply to jack the rear of the vehicle up as high as you can , then just bleed it the conventional way , first gravity bleed the system just by opening the bleed port and allowing fluid to pour from it , then close the port , have your buddy pump the pedal 4 or 5 times then hold it to the floor , then you open the bleed port allowing fluid to flow then close the port and repeat until all air is bled from the system ......it works everytime
my advice if you was to use vacuum to aid in bleeding this system is to use a hand help pump ,(i guess you could use manifold vacuum but i wouldnt use the brake booster line , choose a smaller line ) but in any case leave the supply line attached to the slave cylinder , hook a vacuum pump to a sealed container , then run a line from the sealed container to the bleed port , no need to pump the pedal when using vacuum , just crack the bleed port and pull fluid into the sealed container .
note: a clear tube from the bleed port to the container is useful as you can watch for bubbles , and when you are pulling clear fluid close the bleed port .
after saying all that you still will find the clutch slave cylinder will be hard to bleed .......a trick most of us ford techs use , is simply to jack the rear of the vehicle up as high as you can , then just bleed it the conventional way , first gravity bleed the system just by opening the bleed port and allowing fluid to pour from it , then close the port , have your buddy pump the pedal 4 or 5 times then hold it to the floor , then you open the bleed port allowing fluid to flow then close the port and repeat until all air is bled from the system ......it works everytime
#4
06-05-08, 05:28 PM
Problem with Ranger stems from having both the input and output hoses on the same LOWER end of the cyl........
The easiest way to bleed it is to disconnect it from the PEDAL..remove it from the firewall and turn it so the hoses are at the HIGHEST point of the cyl...........Vacula from the slave and when finished reinstall in the firewall........Works every time
The easiest way to bleed it is to disconnect it from the PEDAL..remove it from the firewall and turn it so the hoses are at the HIGHEST point of the cyl...........Vacula from the slave and when finished reinstall in the firewall........Works every time
