2000 ford taurus pcv valve

Old 06-08-08, 12:42 PM
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2000 ford taurus pcv valve

I am having trouble finding the PCV valve on my 2000 ford taurus. It is a 24 valve dual overhead cam.
Old 06-08-08, 01:09 PM
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I looked at Wiki pedia and found this. Not my words. I saw no poster's name so I cannot credit them. Hope it helps.

On my 2001 Ford Taurus SEL, 24 valve, DOHC engine, the pcv valve is located not where you think it would be. The best way to tell you how to locate it is to follow one of the largest hoses (it's not big...probably 3/4 i.d.) coming out of the throttle body and follow that down to where it mates up to the pcv valve. To help locate the hose, it will be underneath the throttle body and will have a grey hose clamp. The hose will also form an "L". It also turns to a plastic hose too, if that helps. So... rubber "L" hose to plastic hose back to rubber fitting, then the pcv valve.

Another description...The pcv valve is on the driver's side of the car, in the top-middle of the engine under a wiring harness and close to the fuel rail. Naturally, Ford put this next to a lower radiator hose entering the engine block too. In all, it's in the worst spot ever for a pcv valve, if you ask me. I hope the engineers saw a good reason for this, because this is definitely not an easy one to access like 95% of all vehicles (usually on top of the valve covers of most cars and you can change in like, 2 minutes at most). To access this, you really need to remove the whole plastic intake and throttle body. Maybe a professional mechanic could do it without doing this, but I'd have to see it to believe it.

One more thing I forgot to add. The pcv valve for this is made by Motorcraft (part number EV-243 or part number EV-268) EV-268 has a metal hose wrapped around the part. I was told that on some Ford minivans, the metal tube is for coolant to run through.... I guess to keep the valve cool. Anyway, you won't need this for your Taurus. Simply bend it slightly and pull it off. The valve, you'll notice, has square-like sides. This is to allow you to put a pair of pliers on it to remove the old and insert the new. The part has to be turned about a quarter turn counter-clockwise to remove and the opposite to install. You'll also see that it has a rubber o-ring on it to seal it in the block. You won't be able to reach it well with just your fingers, unless you were to remove the wiring harness and fuel rail. So... simply use a pair of pliers to reach under the wiring harness and grasp the square-sides of the valve and twist it counter-clockwise to remove. I didn't need much pressure at all to remove it, although I read online where one guy's cracked when he did it. He claimed it was in there so long that the piece was siezed in the opening. Mine simply twisted out and I twisted the new back in.

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