Intrigue Question
#1
06-28-08, 06:35 AM
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Intrigue Question
I have a 1998 Olds Intrigue. Bought it 4 days ago and it was starting up fine. Then yesterday I stopped at a dealership to pick up a part. When I tried to start it, nothing happened. It was like the battery was dead, because it wouldn't crank. I walked back inside and got a mechanic to come out with a jump box and battery tester. He checked the battery and said it seemed ok, and their was hardly any corrision on the connecting cables. He then proceeded to try the jump box, and it still didn't want to crank. Finally I got the car to start, after about 15 minutes.
I went over to the Auto Zone and left the car running. I asked them to double check my battery and make sure it was good. They had me to turn the car off so they could check the battery. They said nothing was wrong with the battery. Same thing happened when they tried to jump start the car. It didn't want to crank. It was like every bit of the power was zapped when I would try to start the car. The gauge needles was jumping all around, the fan on the ac wouldn't come on. the radio wouldn't play, it was very weird.
Both guys that checked it out came to the conclusion that it was in the electrical system. Possibly a short, somewhere before power reached the battery. One said it acted like his wife's Olds Alero, all of a sudden it wouldn't start. It was a faulty ignition switch. They suggested going to a good mechanic that had a big diagnostic machine they could hook the car up to, and see what everything was doing, especially the electrical things.
They said if you take it to someone who checks everything by hand, you could run into a time consuming and very costly ordeal, and you make still not get to the root of the problem. The check engine light has been staying on. It coded P176, which for GM is EVAP canister purge solenoid control circuit fault. A mechanic told me that was something that would not leave me stranded. He suggested buying a new gas cap from the OLDS dealer. I did replace the gas cap, had the code knocked out, but it came back on in about 15 seconds.
I was about 30 miles from my home when all this happened. We could not get the car to start with the jump box, so the auto zone guy went to get a truck to try and jump the car off with jumper cables. While he was gone, I tried cranking the Intrigue again, and it actually started. What was odd is this, the RPM gauge needle was all the way around to the right, as far as it can go, but yet the car was not revving up. I left and tried to make it home. I didn't run the ac or even turn on the radio. I have power windows and finally got up the nerve to put the driver's window down. I was afraid the least little thing might leave me stranded. I made it home, and after I did, I turned the car off and back on several times. I just now went out and tried to crank it, after it sat all night, and guess what, it started. The RPM needle is still staying to the far right.
I am so confused. Someone with more knowledge on this, please help. Could it be ignition problems, or electrical problems?
I went over to the Auto Zone and left the car running. I asked them to double check my battery and make sure it was good. They had me to turn the car off so they could check the battery. They said nothing was wrong with the battery. Same thing happened when they tried to jump start the car. It didn't want to crank. It was like every bit of the power was zapped when I would try to start the car. The gauge needles was jumping all around, the fan on the ac wouldn't come on. the radio wouldn't play, it was very weird.
Both guys that checked it out came to the conclusion that it was in the electrical system. Possibly a short, somewhere before power reached the battery. One said it acted like his wife's Olds Alero, all of a sudden it wouldn't start. It was a faulty ignition switch. They suggested going to a good mechanic that had a big diagnostic machine they could hook the car up to, and see what everything was doing, especially the electrical things.
They said if you take it to someone who checks everything by hand, you could run into a time consuming and very costly ordeal, and you make still not get to the root of the problem. The check engine light has been staying on. It coded P176, which for GM is EVAP canister purge solenoid control circuit fault. A mechanic told me that was something that would not leave me stranded. He suggested buying a new gas cap from the OLDS dealer. I did replace the gas cap, had the code knocked out, but it came back on in about 15 seconds.
I was about 30 miles from my home when all this happened. We could not get the car to start with the jump box, so the auto zone guy went to get a truck to try and jump the car off with jumper cables. While he was gone, I tried cranking the Intrigue again, and it actually started. What was odd is this, the RPM gauge needle was all the way around to the right, as far as it can go, but yet the car was not revving up. I left and tried to make it home. I didn't run the ac or even turn on the radio. I have power windows and finally got up the nerve to put the driver's window down. I was afraid the least little thing might leave me stranded. I made it home, and after I did, I turned the car off and back on several times. I just now went out and tried to crank it, after it sat all night, and guess what, it started. The RPM needle is still staying to the far right.
I am so confused. Someone with more knowledge on this, please help. Could it be ignition problems, or electrical problems?
#2
06-28-08, 04:11 PM
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you have electrical problems. but they could be in the wireing to the ingnition switch or a ground to the dash. what you are describing sounds like a bad ground to the dash or computer.
murphy was an optimist
murphy was an optimist
#3
06-28-08, 07:10 PM
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If the vehicle is equipped with a "PASS-KEY" security function, there is a ten minute "TIME-OUT" period between invalid key responses...Does the security lamp illuminate while trying to crank the car?
EVAP systems failures DO NOT ALWAYS lead to a bad gas cap........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Solenoids, vacuum leaks and physical damage will cause these same CODES . Granted ...the cap was cheaper than a Purge or Vent solenoid, but the 15 bucks that you spent could have been spent making progress toward fixing the actual problem..
Not to sound harsh...but after many years in the biz...The first step in diagnosing a problem is to know what the thing your working with is supposed to do.....You cant fix it if you dont know how it is supposed to work......
Without this basic knowledge , or should I say information, you are in essence, Shooting blanks in a dark room....the chance that you will actually hit something are slim to none.
EVAP systems failures DO NOT ALWAYS lead to a bad gas cap........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Solenoids, vacuum leaks and physical damage will cause these same CODES . Granted ...the cap was cheaper than a Purge or Vent solenoid, but the 15 bucks that you spent could have been spent making progress toward fixing the actual problem..
Not to sound harsh...but after many years in the biz...The first step in diagnosing a problem is to know what the thing your working with is supposed to do.....You cant fix it if you dont know how it is supposed to work......
Without this basic knowledge , or should I say information, you are in essence, Shooting blanks in a dark room....the chance that you will actually hit something are slim to none.
