1998 ford taurus

generator problem? ive looked in the owners manual called the dealers ,and the ford co. no one will tell me what to two plug in diodes are for in the power distribution box are they part of the generator charging system , the 175 amp and other fuse and the belt is ok hate to have to pull out the generator .looks like a real pain to do just to find its something simple

 

Symptoms please???
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I assume you are talking about the alternator, not a generator?

 

on one of the wiring diagrams it refers to it as a generator , but i guess thaty are all called alt now sorry if i am an old timmer

 

Can you tell us what problems you are having now?

 

im still trying to find out what the two plug in diodes in the power distribution box are for ,are they part of the charging system i hate to have to pull ou the alternator just to find it was somethig simple.

 

AC compressor clutch, and Ignition system......


Neither are related to charging system.........To us oldtimers, the rectifier diodes are internal, and are not field replaceable.....Prepare to pull the alternator.

 

old alternator was checked at store and was bad old battery would not hold charge... so new alternator and battery .mega fuse and other fuse ok but the battery sign is still on at the dash, and putting a battery/charging meter shows its still not charging... what next im stumped

 

I merged your thread into your original. Please bookmark this page so you can post future questions regarding this issue into this thread.


Are you saying you have the new battery disconnected from the cables, and your battery charger is not showing a charge?

Have you inspected your battery/alternator cables to make sure they are not corroded?

If you replaced the battery and alternator, then that only leaves the cables.

 

sorry thought i had the problem licked . the meter i am talking about, is hand held , its supossed to tell you if the battery is good under load and if the the charging ckt is working. it has two leads and a button to press to put the battery under a load , hold for ten sec. and its suposed to stay in the green with the car running the battery symbol lite is on in the dash, with the battery connected and the meter on the battery is shows the charging ckt is not charging the cables look clean

 

The battery cables is definately not a bad place to look. Peel back the insulation and see if the cables are green inside. If so replace the cables as they are corroded and unable to do their job.
Also Fords are notorious for having fusible links in the wiring. Check around the battery for some of these and feel near them for soft insulation and melted wires.
Do you have a DVOM? If so, start the car and put the DVOM on the respective battery terminals and tell us what the charging volts are.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy

 

what is the voltage with the engine off, what is the voltage with the engine running? you should see a voltage rise of at least 1 to 2 volts over the engine off voltage when the vehicle is started. if you are not charging with a new alternator you will need to make sure that the wires to the alternator are not damaged or open. I also would use a good volt meter not a cheep load center.

life begins when the kids leave home and the dog dies

 

life is good when the last two (twins girls) of eight kids leave home and the 6 cats disappear at age 63 ive had enought lol......is it still true with the new comp cars that you can disconnect the battery cable once the car is started and if the alternator is good the car should still run ???? i am going to go down to the shop and try to check all the wires next with my good dvom i will check for continuity and res. look for corroison the parts store said there is a slim chance that i got a bad ,new alt. but it was a hang of a job to replace it as we had to pull out the axel to get it out. two things ive learned .first have them check out the alt before i leave the store. second dont put everything back till you sure it works i,e, the axel

 

Dont pull off the battery cable with engine running. The new computer controls in cars do not like power surges and you could fry something very expensive.
Get a multi meter from radio shack a small digital one not a high cost item but sure a good tool to have.
Put it on the DC scale for the voltage close to but over 12 volts.
Put the red lead on + and black lead on - of your battey it should be about 12 volts. Next get car running and do the same thing reading should be around 13-14 volts. next turn on some lights it should not drop very much if at all. Report back.