Replacing shock absorbers as simple as it appears?

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-21-08, 07:48 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,202
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Replacing shock absorbers as simple as it appears?

Is it difficult removing and installing shock absorbers? I have a 92' Ford Ranger XLT Suoercab with pushbutton 4WD. I looked in my Chilton's manual and there are only about 10 steps total for removal and replacement.

I am guessing I jack it up high enough so the shocks and springs are fully extended and not compressed? The shocks on my make/model are stand alone and not incorporated into any suspension parts. I don't think my model has automatic ride control.

I guess the things that concerns me is dealing with rusted frozen bolts,since I don't have an impact wrench. Is this task as simple as it appears, or should I avoid it. What unexpected problems might I encounter?

Thanks,
Dave
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-21-08, 09:12 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Central, IL.
Posts: 109
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
yep, it can be extremely simple.

couple of tips.
if the front shocks ahve the bolts throught eh towers and nuts on top, place your socket over the nut, and rock teh rachet up and down. Your trying to break the stud off, takes about 8-10 good cranks up and down.

If you insist on unscrewing the nuts, BP Blaster is your friend. Spray, tap, spray, tap, wait a day and repeat.

then you could always use a torch, however you will catcht eh rubber bushings on fire, have a fire extinguisher on hand.
 
  #3  
Old 07-23-08, 01:34 PM
WTDR-DTY's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 92
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
i just did all 4 shocks on my truck, 4x4. as far as you do not have to deal with mcpherson's, when shock is integrated into the suspension, it is very easy to do.
most likely, shock's rod will have a flat head protruding out of the upper nut, to grab with a wisegrip or some like that. some have hex head, so you can use proper sized socket to counter it when you losen the nut.
you want spring to be compressed. i use hydraulic jack and run it's plate underneath the control arm, about where the ball joint is attached. some cars have a crossbar in control arm, it is a good point of jacking too. i'd not attempt this with a bottle jack or a regular car jack, you need something that moves along with the control arm movenet, as it moves in arc.
remove the wheel and have it done. it's like 10 minutes on the 1st one, less on the other ones, when you already have a hang of it. rears are just totally simple. just don't forget to chock the front wheels when you work on rears, please.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: