2000 Silverado AC blows cold awhile then ambient
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2000 Silverado AC blows cold awhile then ambient
It always comes on at first, but after a while it shuts off and won't come back on, like it should. If I turn off the air for about 3 minutes it will come back on. All my problems started when my stereo got stolen. It caused many electrical problems. All the others were fixed with new fuses. I took the truck to 2 different ac shops the first one said it was the control head and would cost $600 to fix. This shop looked at another of my trucks at the same time. I told them to fix it and they mis-diagnosed it. So, I decided to take the Silverado for a 2nd opinion. The 2nd shop said it was going to need a new compressor. They said the system was shuting off like it should, but when it was supposed to click back on it wasn't engaging. They quoted me $900 to fix.
If it is $900 I am going to leave it broken till at least next summer, but I can't help but feel that it is some kind of sensor or something that got fried when the wiring for the stereo was yanked out.
When I frist turn the truck on it seems to stay on longer, when it is really hot. and it seems to do different at night. I saw several little silver boxes in the fuse box and in the owners manual. I checked on the price for these and they are cheap(I couldn't figure out how to change and Advance Auto was no help). I also so some cheap parts on a website, like an Ambient air temperature sensor($17), an interior temperature sensor($24) and a climate control sun sensor $8. wOuld it be prudent to try changing some of these chea parts? How do you remove the ones in the fuse boxes? Would the other cheap parts be on my system,, described below? Where would I find them on the truck? Can they be tested?(I have a friend, who is good) Which ones should I try first?
The AC system is pretty basic, it has the three round knobs left fan speed, middle temp control and right dash/floor/bilevel/bilevel2/defog). it has two buttons on bottom left fresh air/recycle and right a/c on/off. It is not digital. The engine is the 4.8 litrer small V8.
TIA
If it is $900 I am going to leave it broken till at least next summer, but I can't help but feel that it is some kind of sensor or something that got fried when the wiring for the stereo was yanked out.
When I frist turn the truck on it seems to stay on longer, when it is really hot. and it seems to do different at night. I saw several little silver boxes in the fuse box and in the owners manual. I checked on the price for these and they are cheap(I couldn't figure out how to change and Advance Auto was no help). I also so some cheap parts on a website, like an Ambient air temperature sensor($17), an interior temperature sensor($24) and a climate control sun sensor $8. wOuld it be prudent to try changing some of these chea parts? How do you remove the ones in the fuse boxes? Would the other cheap parts be on my system,, described below? Where would I find them on the truck? Can they be tested?(I have a friend, who is good) Which ones should I try first?
The AC system is pretty basic, it has the three round knobs left fan speed, middle temp control and right dash/floor/bilevel/bilevel2/defog). it has two buttons on bottom left fresh air/recycle and right a/c on/off. It is not digital. The engine is the 4.8 litrer small V8.
TIA
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The relays you are talking about are easy to change they just pull out like a fuse does. But they generally either work are they don't I think if your comp. runs and cools then shuts off and will not come back on you may just have a bad high pressure switch that is located in the dryer line not sure on that model but try unplugging it and jumping the wires with a paper clip and see if your comp. comes back in I will check on this thread to see if that worked for you.
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the system could also be low on refrigerant and that could cause it to freeze up and quit cooling. Do you have any way to find out what the system pressures are when it is running?
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Try watching your compressor while it is running. You have to give it the evil eye to see what I am talking about. When you see it engage it should be a quick crisp engagement. If it is bad you may see it move a little and then engage. You may even see it move a little and not engage.
Some thing else that happens to those particular vehicles it that the wiring at the low pressure switch on the accumulator will break inside the insulation. You can check this by manipulating the wiring at the switch and watching the compressor clutch for a reaction. If it is you can get a repair kit that has a pigtail and two butt connectors to replace the bad one.
Some thing else that happens to those particular vehicles it that the wiring at the low pressure switch on the accumulator will break inside the insulation. You can check this by manipulating the wiring at the switch and watching the compressor clutch for a reaction. If it is you can get a repair kit that has a pigtail and two butt connectors to replace the bad one.
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I already had the clutch , 2 pressure sensor and vac and filled my compressor will stay on till it get cool then shut off and never engage again I had a shop put my clutch in and vac they could never fix the problem. They think its my compressor. I dont know about that it will run longer in hot weather than cold as long as it does not engage
I got tired of the part changing Mech. They have
I got tired of the part changing Mech. They have