ignition lock cylinder

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  #1  
Old 08-27-08, 12:46 PM
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ignition lock cylinder

I'm going to be replacing the ignition lock cylinder on a '90 Jeep Cherokee. In addition to removing the steering wheel I apparently need a "lock plate compressor tool." The info I found about the procedure includes the following step:
"Compress lock plate with Lock Plate Compressor (J-23653) for standard threads, or (J-23653-4) for metric threads. Pry retaining snap ring from steering shaft groove and slide snap ring toward compressor."

1. I suppose if I went to the auto parts store they might have such a tool for sale. Is it expensive?
2. How can I know in advance whether I'm going to need the one for standard threads or metric?
3. I don't have the ignition key available (long-lost), so how will this complicate removal?

any comments/advice about doing this myself appreciated.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 02:16 PM
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The tool is not too expensive, Advance Auto Parts and others have a loaner tool program, maybe they have one of these for rent or loan. The tool usually comes with 2 stems, one standard, one metric. Just remove the retaining nut from the steering column and check the thread on it, this is the thread you will need. Ignition key is not normally needed for lock replacement.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by wire twister View Post
The tool is not too expensive, Advance Auto Parts and others have a loaner tool program, maybe they have one of these for rent or loan. The tool usually comes with 2 stems, one standard, one metric. Just remove the retaining nut from the steering column and check the thread on it, this is the thread you will need. Ignition key is not normally needed for lock replacement.
Unfortunately I live in a small relatively remote town where the local NAPA store and the CarQuest store (only two parts stores) do not have a loaner tool program, and if I want to buy one from them it'll cost about 30 bucks.

Also, unfortunately, and apparently not so normal, to remove the lock the instructions say I need to use the key and turn the lock to the on (ACC) position to get it out. How might I accomplish the removal without the key?
 
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Old 08-27-08, 06:20 PM
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Carefully, with a 1/8 inch drill bit, drill out the lock pin, and yank the cylinder out. A moderate tug will be necessary, and make sure you drill straight in.....otherwise you will be buying a steering column.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Unclediezel View Post
Carefully, with a 1/8 inch drill bit, drill out the lock pin, and yank the cylinder out.
If possible please describe the location and appearance of this "lock pin" I would need to drill out. thanks
 
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Old 08-27-08, 07:50 PM
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Thinking back.......Dependant on your column......There are two methods of securing your cylinder..

If you have the new cylinder already..look carefully at the body of the cylinder. There will either be a small "TAB" protruding from the cylinder...or a Round "Notch" cast into it.

The notch is as simple as removing a "PINCH BOLT" and sliding the cylinder out.
The tab will need to be drilled or otherwise broken off , because it will not retract without the ignition key being turned.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 08:00 PM
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Okay thanks Unclediezel. Mine has the tab (of course!) and not the simpler pinch bolt situation. Not sure how I could really manage drill this tab out (it's not round but rectangular)using a drill bit, or how I would break it off otherwise. Any further suggestions welcome.
 
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Old 08-27-08, 09:18 PM
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Once the lock plate and turnsignal switch are removed....1/8 inch drill bit..3 evenly spaced holes into the tab.......smack it with a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. it will crack off.

Possibly if you can find a small enuff rotary bit..a Dremel can be used to grind it away until it frees up.

Patience is the key here......It will come out if your slow and careful enuff.
 
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