Two Maxima Questions
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Two Maxima Questions
I am not sure if two questions in one post makes sense, but here goes:
(1) 1997 Maxima: I have the ABS light on. It was intermittent for a while, but now steady on. I read a service manual about grounding a connector to count flashing lights to diagnose the source of the problem in the ABS system. Is the to-be-grounded connector in the OBD II port ? which one ? Does grounding mean to the car ?
I did some 'testing' and I think the issue is with the passenger front wheel. In a panic stop, it locks up unlike the other wheels. Also, there is a faint metalic dragging noise from that corner ? This weekend I will get a chance to take a look but could that be the wear indicator on the pad ? The front rotors have 90K miles, the pads about 35K . Would worn rotors / pads effect the ABS ? I got new ones to change them out because they look worn enough to warrant replacement.
(2) 2001 Maxima: My mom's car that sat and sat and sat (for about 7 months with only 1 or 2 couple of short mile trips. This problem is a mystery to me.
I charged the battery out of the car. Car started fine. But, the battery light came on and the brake light. After a bit of driving, say 10-12 miles, the battery light got dimmer and dimmer and dimmer, then went out: so did the brake light. Pretty much in unison. I was happy , figuring it just needed some time to charge fully by the alternator
When I slowed down, it seemed like the lights ever so slowly started to come back on, very faintly. I was driving on a secondary road with occasional stops ( avg speed of 45-50)
Then, after 20-25 miles, the lights came back on (no stops) Got bright, then the previous pattern repeated. Came back on slowly... faint to brighter to brighter.....
When I got the car back to its new home ( 50 mile drive) the lights were both on (battery and brake) When the emergency brake is applied, the brake light gets brighter. Dims when the emergency is released
Then after a day or two, the battery was as dead as proverbial door nail. The battery is only 18 months old so I (perhaps incorrectly) assume its OK, and since my charger gave it a charge that 'held' for about 2 weeks before I used the battery to start the car .........
Any ideas where to start would be appreciated
(1) 1997 Maxima: I have the ABS light on. It was intermittent for a while, but now steady on. I read a service manual about grounding a connector to count flashing lights to diagnose the source of the problem in the ABS system. Is the to-be-grounded connector in the OBD II port ? which one ? Does grounding mean to the car ?
I did some 'testing' and I think the issue is with the passenger front wheel. In a panic stop, it locks up unlike the other wheels. Also, there is a faint metalic dragging noise from that corner ? This weekend I will get a chance to take a look but could that be the wear indicator on the pad ? The front rotors have 90K miles, the pads about 35K . Would worn rotors / pads effect the ABS ? I got new ones to change them out because they look worn enough to warrant replacement.
(2) 2001 Maxima: My mom's car that sat and sat and sat (for about 7 months with only 1 or 2 couple of short mile trips. This problem is a mystery to me.
I charged the battery out of the car. Car started fine. But, the battery light came on and the brake light. After a bit of driving, say 10-12 miles, the battery light got dimmer and dimmer and dimmer, then went out: so did the brake light. Pretty much in unison. I was happy , figuring it just needed some time to charge fully by the alternator
When I slowed down, it seemed like the lights ever so slowly started to come back on, very faintly. I was driving on a secondary road with occasional stops ( avg speed of 45-50)
Then, after 20-25 miles, the lights came back on (no stops) Got bright, then the previous pattern repeated. Came back on slowly... faint to brighter to brighter.....
When I got the car back to its new home ( 50 mile drive) the lights were both on (battery and brake) When the emergency brake is applied, the brake light gets brighter. Dims when the emergency is released
Then after a day or two, the battery was as dead as proverbial door nail. The battery is only 18 months old so I (perhaps incorrectly) assume its OK, and since my charger gave it a charge that 'held' for about 2 weeks before I used the battery to start the car .........
Any ideas where to start would be appreciated
#2
For the 2001...The first thing you should do is test the battery and charging system. You need to have the ability to test the battery for amperage, either Cold Cranking Amps or Cranking Amps. And the ability to test the charging system with a load tester. Let us know what you come up with and we will lead you in the right direction. If you dont have the tools to do this your local auto parts store... Advance, Auto Zone, etc... will perform the tests for free or for a small charge. I will get back to you on the other car.
Hope this helps ya,
Billy
Hope this helps ya,
Billy
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1997 Maxima ABS light
I finally got to changing out the front pads and rotors on the 1997 Maxima. The rotors were reasonably worn and pitted and the pads were slightly less than 1/2 the thickness of the new pads.
However, the (what I call them anyway) caliper slide bolts were frozen ... not both but the lower one on each side. So I guess the front brakes were sort of half working.
Interestingly, after a short drive, the ABS light stayed on, but after the 2d or 3d trip with the vehicle, the ABS has now gone out. Would the sticking caliper cause that, and have that healing effect once the brakes were working OK again ? The brakes are much higher and firmer so it is clear there was a problem. I am just wondering how much impact that has on the ABS ?
So, now to just see if the the light stays out.
However, the (what I call them anyway) caliper slide bolts were frozen ... not both but the lower one on each side. So I guess the front brakes were sort of half working.
Interestingly, after a short drive, the ABS light stayed on, but after the 2d or 3d trip with the vehicle, the ABS has now gone out. Would the sticking caliper cause that, and have that healing effect once the brakes were working OK again ? The brakes are much higher and firmer so it is clear there was a problem. I am just wondering how much impact that has on the ABS ?
So, now to just see if the the light stays out.
#5
97 Max = Possible of dirt build up on the tone ring and when replacing the pads/rotor, you "accidently" removed some of the dirt on the tone ring. Seize/froze or "hafl working" on calipers will not affect the ABS system. Soon as the car move, if anything wrong with the ABS system, light will comes on. If you don't have scanner that can read Nissan ABS, disconnect all 4 wheel speed sensors and check the resistance on the sensor itself, 800-1500 Omh is normal reading on good sensor.
01 Max = Alternator problem. Check the big cable that goes to Alt and make sure there's no "burnt" mark around the connection. Disconnect the two way connector on top of Alt. then start up the car, if both Battery and Brake lights are out, you need new Alternator.
01 Max = Alternator problem. Check the big cable that goes to Alt and make sure there's no "burnt" mark around the connection. Disconnect the two way connector on top of Alt. then start up the car, if both Battery and Brake lights are out, you need new Alternator.
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Maxima ABS system
Where is the 'tone ring' for the '97 maxima ?
(97 Maxima) When I replaced the front rotors, they just (with jacking bolts) come right off the hubs. Is the speed sensor for the ABS inside the hubs? I am guessing it must be because the connections for the braking system goes into the back. Wondering out loud though, I did give a few taps onto the old rotors with a 2 lb hammer to loosen them from the hubs. I suppose that could knock some crud loose. Thanks for the help.
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Today or tomorrow I will get at the other Maxima. I was told that the alternator was replaced only a few miles ago, and the existing problem was not fixed by that change.
What do the brake and ABS lights have to do with the charging system ?
(97 Maxima) When I replaced the front rotors, they just (with jacking bolts) come right off the hubs. Is the speed sensor for the ABS inside the hubs? I am guessing it must be because the connections for the braking system goes into the back. Wondering out loud though, I did give a few taps onto the old rotors with a 2 lb hammer to loosen them from the hubs. I suppose that could knock some crud loose. Thanks for the help.
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Today or tomorrow I will get at the other Maxima. I was told that the alternator was replaced only a few miles ago, and the existing problem was not fixed by that change.
What do the brake and ABS lights have to do with the charging system ?
#7
The tone ring is a part of the hub/bearing and it's on the back behind the knuckle on the front and it's behind the spindle if it's in the rear.
The brake and ABS light has nothing to do with charging system, but if the brake and the battery lights comes on at the same time, it's an indication of either worn brush/amature or bad rectified/diot in the alternator, part of the charging system is wired to the brake and battery indicator circuits behind the cluster/dashboard, when alternator goes bad, usually it's shorted out internally which allows the circuit completed it path(grounding) and turn on the lights.
The brake and ABS light has nothing to do with charging system, but if the brake and the battery lights comes on at the same time, it's an indication of either worn brush/amature or bad rectified/diot in the alternator, part of the charging system is wired to the brake and battery indicator circuits behind the cluster/dashboard, when alternator goes bad, usually it's shorted out internally which allows the circuit completed it path(grounding) and turn on the lights.
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Lights and brakes
Thanks NG for the input. The 97 now seems to be fine, but I am perplexed with the 01 Maxima. I suppose a new alternator could be bad and one was supposedly installed last fall; the car has been driven less than 100 miles since then.
Interestingly, yesterday, I ran the car for about 1/2 hour and for about 10-15 minutes, in the middle of the half hour, the battery light went out as well as the ABS and brake lights(which went off by itself <ABS> about 5 minutes into the idle). Then just the battery and the brake light came back, and stayed on. Perplexing....
Looking at the location, does the alternator just 'fit' down from the top side , next to the radiator? Or does anything significant need to be disconnected ? It sure looks like a tight fit
Interestingly, yesterday, I ran the car for about 1/2 hour and for about 10-15 minutes, in the middle of the half hour, the battery light went out as well as the ABS and brake lights(which went off by itself <ABS> about 5 minutes into the idle). Then just the battery and the brake light came back, and stayed on. Perplexing....
Looking at the location, does the alternator just 'fit' down from the top side , next to the radiator? Or does anything significant need to be disconnected ? It sure looks like a tight fit
#9
The best way to remove the Alt is from the bottom, all you have to do is loosing the a/c compressor (loosing it, not removed it) and the Alt will comes out from the bottom, if you wanna remove from the top, you will have to drain the coolant and remove the Radiator(too much work), the service manual will tell you remove it from the top because they don't want you to mess with a/c system, but then again, you can get the Alt out from the bottom w/o remove the a/c compressor. Don't forget disconnect the battery first.
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Maxima Electrical
I wanted to post what I found with the above problems. It was the alternator. I spoke to a knowledgeable technican near by and his experience is that he gets a lot of bad-remanufactured alternators. So, even though the alternator was 'new' (rebuilt), it was bad. I guess the eratic voltage output causes the ABS light etc to get squirelly and caused that system to think its bad because of the unstable voltage. Problem solved. Thanks for all the help.