Can someone tell me were the pcv valve is located on a 2003 Ford Taurus. Thanks

Figure about $65 an hour at some shop. Plus picked up all new parts for both rears, except only one cylinder and one drum. I spent many hours yesterday redoing just one side. What a mess. The drum had ground down severely. And the wheel cylinder fell apart due to the spread, and leaked out fluid down the tire. Had to take backroads home. Could not get off the drum due to that ridge from drum being ground by worn-out padless shoes. Could not turn the adjuster star wheel as it was seized. Did not help by squirting penetrating oil in the backplate slot. Had to pry out, and hold out at same time, while chiseling off (not much room to swing hammer) those anchor spring pins that go through the backplate at the 3 and 9 oclock position so I could FINALLY wrangle off the drums. Once I got inside there was a pile of chunks of brake pad and goo - one greasy mess. Had to buy ALL new parts (for both rear wheels), including cylinder. 2 trips to parts house and also hardware store as - get this - the brake shoes did not come with the emergency brake plate attached! Factory brake shoe had emergency brake plate punch press type rivoted in place, and not like Haynes manual that said about removing an e-clip. No such thing. Mine had about a 3/8ths solid pin through both plates and was swedged by punch press. I had to use grinder and grind off. So I had to get a shoulder type bolt (stainless)at hardware store. Then I had to drill out the brake shoe hole larger to accomodate. (I had called up 2 parts houses and they only sold regular replacement brake shoes for that car, but knew nothing of that emergency plate mounted to it, nor how I could remount mine so it could turn. (Maybe Dodge OEM sells that shoe, only?) Had cylinder mount screws, and brake line fitting into cylinder soaking with penetrating oil quite a while. Brake line fitting turned, but unfortunately so did the brake line and the line tore 1/2 inch upstream, so had to splice in new line. Clean up everything thoroughly with wire brush and brake cleaner spray. Installed every single part new. Adjusted star wheel so brake drum would barely slide over the shoes. (Never had to adjust it any more) Bled brake myself (took only 2 pump/bleed sequences, and very little brake fluid to re-add, even though I had brake line cut and hanging there!, and brake pedal then felt hard = good. Put wheel back on. Moved stuff out of the way. Removed safety blocks of wood holding car in case jack fell. Removed jack. Took car for test drive, forward and backward driving = perfect, no rubbing noises, instant stopping, no pull to any side when braking. Excellent. Came back to garage and spend 1/2 hour spraying greased up tools with brake cleaner and putting away tremendous amounts of tools, etc. ......................................................... Granted, garages who do this sort of thing all the time are quicker. But considering all that I said above, what do you think they would have charged me for this. Again:$65/hr. plus drum cost $30 + cylinder cost $12 + wheel spring kit (for one side) cost $6 + shoes cost $15 for one side + brake fluid, brake parts cleaner, penetrating oil + stainless bolts-washers-nut cost about $3. So what about would I have had to pay?