2001 ford escape early start problems

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  #1  
Old 09-26-08, 10:52 AM
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2001 ford escape early start problems

I recently been having problems with my Escape ,It's been good but for some reason in the mornings and after it been parked for awhile it acts like it wants to turn off like it is not getting fuel. But what is strange that after it warms up it runs good after 10 to 15 minutes.I have replaced the EGR VALVE,all the air hoses for cracks,fuel filter just after the gas tank.Inoticed that when I spray carb. spray on the hose connection on the top of engine ,just under the valve cover that it levels off.I noticed that it looks like a black or gray small box that it connects to.could this be cracked ?Also I have not replaced the part that feeds the fuel on top engine, I guess it is electronically fed.Please advise as I am running out of options
 
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Old 09-26-08, 03:50 PM
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Sounds like you have already zeroed in on it? Any reason you do not remove whatever is in the way and try to see it better or remove it? A manual for your vehicle would come in handy as they have close up photos of engine areas, and they identify parts.
 
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Old 09-26-08, 05:11 PM
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ecman51`,do you know where I can find a manual for my escape?
 

Last edited by NAVYDAD; 09-26-08 at 05:26 PM.
  #4  
Old 09-26-08, 05:56 PM
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http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/
or google manuals, or some local librarys have manuals,
most likely either that box is cracked or your rubber seal on it is bad. if it helps the running i would remove that and inspect it very carefully for cracks/leaks.

are you going to cowboy up or just lay there and bleed?
 
  #5  
Old 09-29-08, 11:30 AM
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speedwrench,I'll try to get to it this weekend .It will be a task cause the vavle cover is right above it .it sits under this and a short piece of hose connects to it and there after a series of shorts ones and comes around to the back on the top back side.I guess I will need to purchase a new gasket for vavle cover on top.it is hard to get to in order to remove the screws that hold it in place.
 
  #6  
Old 09-29-08, 12:31 PM
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Navydad.....is it really the valve cover? or just the engine cover? V6 or 4cyl?

Can't imagine any hoses "under" the valve cover, but I've never seen a 4 cyl.

I have a V6 '01 Tribute, basically same vehicle. btw I got a Haynes manual at a PepBoys IIRC. It's been pretty accurate so far (though the pictures kinda suck).
 
  #7  
Old 09-29-08, 03:56 PM
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Hi, I work at a Ford dealer. Is it a V6 or 4? V6's are known for the upper intake o-rings to leak. Usually first thing in the morning cause they are rubber and hardened and the cold makes it worse. If you spray carb cleaner around the base of the upper intake and the idle changes, replace those. Need to know which engine though.
 
  #8  
Old 09-29-08, 05:52 PM
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Hi Dirtsnowman,it is a v6 and you're right it hesitates real bad when it been parked for awhile and after being running and or driving it for 10 min . or less it calms down.Do you what I can look for and what to try to fix this.Is it something I can do or do I have to take it to Mechanic.I have a friend that has been isolating the problem and I told him about the connection in the middle of the engine where a vaccum hose is at and it connects to a square small bx in the top of the engine.But it is hard to reach it.I sprayed a carb fuild under the intake and it levels off and around the intake.
 

Last edited by NAVYDAD; 09-29-08 at 06:19 PM.
  #9  
Old 09-29-08, 06:16 PM
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Dirtsnowman, can you tell me if and where I can find a repair manual for this SUV.The suv is great it just this annoying problem in the mornings and after it been sitting for awhile. You are right it acts like that and worse when it is cold .That is why I am in a rush to fix this before the cold season comes.the air intake is what is on top with different routes .I said valve cover but my mistake.Do I have to remove alot of stuff to repair those o-rings.
 
  #10  
Old 09-30-08, 07:22 AM
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If you have to pull the intake (I'm sure Dirtsnowman will be back and maybe he can confirm this) you should probably change the rear plugs while yer at it, depending on milage.

I think the intake has to come off to change those anyway, so why not now. Use the long life (platimum?) plugs.

Thats the one thing I forgot to look at when I bought mine. Everything else maintenance-wise is simple to do/reach. Won't forget to find out on the next vehicle.

Again, Haynes ($20)/Chilton ($25) manuals are available at most Autozones/Checkers/PepBoys. If they don't have them they'll order one, or you can buy them online at the website. Factory manuals will be thru the dealer only if available.
 
  #11  
Old 09-30-08, 10:39 AM
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thanks Gunguy45, I'll try it out,I have the plugs ,It is hard to get to the ones in the back and your right it hard You have to remove the intake .I hope it solves my growing headache with this problem.It seems to be a vaccum leak coming from the area.
 
  #12  
Old 09-30-08, 02:24 PM
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I would feel confident saying that no more diag is needed and just to replace those gaskets. Very rarely the lower intake gaskets leak on those. they stay soft because they touch the block and are much warmer than the uppers. If any vacuum lines are oil soaked or soft just replace them also. otherwise just do the gaskets. they are usually only like 6-8$ a piece for the o-rings. you need 6.

I agree to put plugs in it with the intake off. They take double platinums. Don't use autolites. they say compatible with ford but I see nothing but problems with them. Use motocraft. you can get those at wal-mart or autozone. they are cheaper than the dealer. If I were you I would just get a haynes manual, from advance auto or something. If you want something specific I could send you copies from a shop manual.

The o-rings can be done in like 20 minutes. All you have to do is remove the egr tube at the egr valve, 27mm. Remove the bracket holding the accell cable and cruise control cable. Disconnect the connectors on the back passenger side of the intake, remove all the 8mm intake bolts and just lift it up and pull it forward. put like a block of wood under it to hold it up. then just slap the new o-rings in and thats it. by the way, where do you live?

later
 
  #13  
Old 10-01-08, 11:21 AM
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Dirtsnowman,If You don't mind I would like to have those copies if all possible.I leave in Corpus Christi ,Tx You can contact me at [email protected] Let Me know how I can contact You.
 
  #14  
Old 10-01-08, 05:49 PM
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dirtsnowman,be careful sending copyrighted info such as factory manuals
 
  #15  
Old 10-02-08, 09:11 AM
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Escape Questions

Try this site http://www.escape-central.com/
 
  #16  
Old 10-08-08, 07:52 AM
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Having the same problem with my son's 2001 Ford Escape V6. I changed the plugs (front and back) and replaced the six upper intake gaskets in the process. Still having the same problem. I don't doubt that it is still the gaskets, as I recall them being pretty lame since they seat inside the upper intake, but just seem to sit on top of the lower manifold (i.e., they don't seat in the lower manifold). And NavyDad, maybe the carb spray is getting sucked-in around those gaskets, and that's why the engine revs.

Pretty sad that the intake manifold is made of plastic now. With a plastic manifold and rubber gaskets, I'm sure there is a lot of expansion/contraction with temp changes. This sucks and proves why cheap American cars don't last.
 
  #17  
Old 10-08-08, 11:11 AM
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jdjohn84,Iam still having the same problem,I replaced all the of upper gaskets and now Iam checking on the part where the hose(small) connects on the top of the engine. I am thinking that it might have a crack on it. and when Ispray carb. spray around the area it makes the engine settle down. Iam still trying to isolate the problem.
 
  #18  
Old 10-09-08, 09:17 AM
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Navydad,
As I sugested before you might want to post your question on http://www.escape-central.com/ there are a lot of guys there that know a lot about Escape specific problems. There is one guy "fourthmeal" who has acess to a large data base about these vehicles.
Mike
 
  #19  
Old 10-11-08, 05:54 AM
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Well , I finally had a personal mechanic look at it and it turn out to be the lower intake gaskets and the vaccum connection on the top of the engine was loose as well as replacing the back spark plugs it did the trick . But the engine light came on but I am thinking it is one of the senors that has gone bad. But as far as the engine itself ,on acting bad it did the trick.Now all I have to do is connect the computer to see the codes it is throwing Me.A little at a time but I am getting there.
 
  #20  
Old 10-19-08, 12:07 PM
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UPDATE: I changed the lower intake manifold gaskets on my son's Escape, and it did the trick! I had already changed the upper gaskets and spark plugs, but that did nothing except help get me prepared for removing the upper intake manifold all over again. Removing the lower manifold was tricky due to the fuel rail and injectors. I recommend leaving the fuel rail and injectors connected, and just flipping the whole assembly over right on top of the engine. It is, however, necessary to remove the electrical connectors from the fuel rail and injectors. FYI, the gasket kit comes with both upper and lower gaskets included (and some others that I didn't need), so you might as well change both since you are paying for them anyway.
 
  #21  
Old 10-19-08, 12:12 PM
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This is new to me: Upper AND lower intake manifold gaskets. Can someone explain this?

One or the other is not the exhaust gaskets? They are both intake?
 
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