87 Chevy Truck won't start, gas fumes

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  #1  
Old 10-22-08, 04:27 AM
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87 Chevy Truck won't start, gas fumes

I have an 87 chevy truck that won't start. Initially, before I started replacing things, it would run for about 30 minutes, run rough and then the engine would cut out. Like clockwork, this would happen over and over again. At this point, I had replaced the following:
battery, starter, fuel pump.

Local auto parts place told me to replace the ignition module. Did that, but same issue. Then I replaced the ignition coil, and went ahead and replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, thinking this would do it. Now, it still cranks over real well, but won't start, and there are small back fires and gas fumes I smell, but it would start. Auto place said I have a few choices. Check my new battery again for voltage, or fuel pump wire for voltage or alternator, for proper voltage. Just so I am not going on a wild goose chase, I would like a second opinion.

This truck is a 87 chevy, 350, 4X4, 4 speed manual for specifics
 
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  #2  
Old 10-22-08, 04:49 AM
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Remove distributor cap. Try moving rotor side-to-side to check for play in the distributor shaft. Also look very closely to see if excess play in the shaft has caused the reluctor vanes to make contact. May need a new distributor.

Have you checked for codes?

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/

If you do, don't be surprised if you get a "42".
 
  #3  
Old 10-22-08, 03:53 PM
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Is your truck fuel injected or carbed? There were still a few carbs. around in 87.
 
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Old 10-22-08, 03:57 PM
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Hopefully doctortlove will be back.......
 
  #5  
Old 11-17-10, 01:20 AM
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87 Chevy starts and idles, dies when I try to drive off

Hello fellow do it yourselfers,

I came across your threads and seen some good info and figured someone might possibly be able to help me out.

I also have an 87 Chevy Truck (fuel injected V8 350 4x4) that will start up and run, but as soon as I put it into drive it stalls and then I cannot get it to start back up again.

My brother was driving it for awhile and he said the only way he could get it back started was to just wait a few days or pull the fuel filter out and clean it. He and my dad pulled out my tanks a few weeks earlier to drain the old gas and I guess they cleaned out a good amount of rust.

They replaced the fuel filters as well, but I guess they got clogged pretty easy after the Tank Cleaning.

After consulting with some of my mechanic buddies, they thought that the issue was with the distributor cap, rotor, and coil. After it stalled and we tried to fire it back up they tested the spark on the number on plug and said it was "intermitten" or weak I guess.

I thought it could be the fuel pump, but my friends assured me that it probably wasn't because it will set and run and idle fine, but as soon as I try to drive off it immediately dies and wont start.

Dunno if this has anything to do with the prob but a couple days before my brother cleaned my fuel tanks he replaced the steering box and I had to adjust the linkage and wasnt sure if he could have possibly messed something up doing the steering box.

Im visiting home for a short period of time and been wanting to get it fixed so I can do some hunting. I figured I would consult with some of you because I can garuntee you have more experience in this area than me and didnt want to start buying a bunch of parts and not solve the problem.

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions I would love to hear them so I can get my beast running good again.

Thanks everyone
 
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Old 11-17-10, 03:43 AM
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Rule out a CTS (coolant temperature sensor) issue. The CTS sends a signal to the PCM to send the correct amount of fuel to injectors when engine has warmed up. If the CTS has failed, the PCM will think the engine is still cold. To compensate the PCM will signal out more fuel. This additional causes flooding, so the engine stalls.

[I]More possibilities [/I](also must ruled out)

An EGR or EGR passageway issue

Static and residual fuel line pressure. (These can only be confirmed with a fuel pressure gauge).

The next time the truck stalls or wonít start attach a fuel pressure gauge and post the values.
 
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Old 11-17-10, 03:57 AM
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Thanks and Questions

Thanks for your feedback but im still a bit confused. Are you saying that the Coolant temperature sensor is probably not the problem or that is a possibility it is the problem?? and what does the PCM stand for? and are you saying that the PCM is the issue?

Sorry Im just burnt out trying to figure this out would your recommend replacing the CTS first or the PCM because what you are saying sounds exactly right as to what my truck is doing, seems like it floods when i hit the gas.

Thanks and I look forward to hearing back from you have a good day
 
  #8  
Old 11-17-10, 05:08 AM
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You did not say if you replaced the spark plugs as the original poster did (OP)
If seen startling things happen from a simple spark plug change.
I would say spark plugs are still the weakest part of a spark ignition engine.
 
  #9  
Old 11-17-10, 09:08 AM
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PCM = Powertrain Control Module, aka "computer".

Agree with both ASE & frankiee. #1, as to fuel delivery, you really need to know that there is in fact proper pressure still being delivered when the engine quits before moving on to ignition. More than once I've made assumptions and moved on to something else and been bit on the butt. Coincidentally, since ASE mentioned it, I once had a dead coolant sensor and blew by that chasing everything else in the ignition system for a no-start condition.

#2, as to the ignition system, in addition to the plugs frankiee mentioned, how long since all the preventive maintenance stuff has been replaced, i.e. plug wires, cap, rotor?

Your engine is likely very close to what I'm running. If in fact you have a weak/intermittent spark issue there are several items that could contribute as ASE talks about; the last ignition issue I had was a dead coil, but before I got to that I had eliminated all the more common causes (plugs, wires, cap, rotor). Other possibilities (I'm sure I'll forget some that ASE will tack on): ignition module, pickup coil, or the distributor itself (excess play in shaft due to bearing wear). Some of these have test criteria that can be checked with a simple multimeter or manually in the case of play in the distributor shaft. Check autozone.com for the info.

Troublehooting can be a PITA, but you have to take it one step at a time and ensure a definitive result from each item on the list before moving on, i.e. make certain it's definitely an ignition problem before you start troubleshooting the ignition system.

Good luck and post back how you do with it.
 
  #10  
Old 11-17-10, 10:13 AM
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Thank you ASE, tow guy, and frankiee,

tow guy you are right I need to slow down and be more methodical about things, I dont have a fuel pressure gauge but im sure I can attain one from a friend. Ill def. make sure to check things off now instead of move on and skip something.

to be quit honest I don't think the preventative maintenance pertaining to the plug wires, caps, and rotors has been done in awhile, that is where my friend the mechanic recommended I start. and I'm sure it needs new plugs as well (Thanks Frankiee).

The thing that is weird is I had it running perfectly fine about 2 months ago, then I leave to go back to college and my brother starts messing with it (cleaning out the fuel tanks, etc..) and now its doing this.

Im going to eat some lunch and head out and do some troubleshooting and I will definatly let everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks everyone you have been very helpful and I greatly appreciate your kindness.

Ill post back soon for an update
 
  #11  
Old 11-17-10, 12:47 PM
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You're Welcome.

(Quote) I need to slow down and be more methodical about things

You also need to know what youíre dealing with.

The engine in your truck is a GM model LO5
350 V-8 (TBI) Throttle Body Injection
300 ft lbs of torque
210 Horsepower
used in 1987
on V10, V20, and V30
chevy trucks


Letís start off slow and easy
use the link that tow guy sent you
to check for error codes
check for codes even if the
check engine light is off
post any codes you find.


Get back to us with
fuel pressure psi values
they should be 9-13 psi
you can borrow a fuel
pressure gauge for free
from Auto Zone
Advance Auto Parts
or OíReilly Auto Parts


(Question) Are you saying that the Coolant temperature sensor is probably not the problem or that is a possibility it is the problem??

Possibly is the problem
go back and look
at my first response
youíll see I use
the terms possibilities and rule out These terms indicate an organized way of troubleshooting


(Question) and what does the PCM stand for?

EEC= Electronic Engine Control.
ECM = Engine Control Module or Electronic Control Module.
PCM = Power Control Module.


The above are just (a few out of many) technical names for what everyone calls the computer.

(Question) and are you saying that the PCM is the issue?

Possible but
not probable
letís deal with
above for now
and focus on
the PCM later


The fuel pressure regulator is inside the TBI.

The TBI is the part attached to the intake manifold that looks like a carburator.

A rebuilding kit is avaliable for rebuilding the regulator from any well stocked auto parts store. If the regulator has never been rebuilt, rebuilding it now would be a good idea.

Check back in about 2 hours for the link to check the CTS. (Coolant Temperature Sensor).
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-10, 02:12 PM
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Throttle body injection.

I purposely kept this description as simple and basic as possible.

Throttle body injection uses one or two injector valves mounted within the throttle body housing. The injectors spray fuel into the throttle body at the top of the air horn. The mist of fuel mixes with the air coming through the air horn. The mixture then enters the engine via intake manifold vacuum. Within the throttle body injection assembly is:

Throttle body housing
Fuel injectors
Fuel pressure regulator
Throttle positioner.
Throttle position sensor
Throttle plates.


The throttle body housing looks like a carburetor. Thatís why so many individuals mistake it for a carburetor. It sits on a gasket on top of the intake manifold and bolts to the manifold. The housing (aka assembly) contains the metal castings that hold the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and throttle plates. The throttle plates are in the lower portion of the body. A linkage (or cable) connects the throttle plates to the accelerator pedal. An inlet fuel line and outlet return fuel line connects to the body via fittings

Click below.

Google Image Result for http://compnine.com/smallimg/17089082.gif

Click below for CTS test.

| Repair Guides | Fuel Injected Electronic Engine Controls | Engine Coolant Temperature (ect) Sensor | AutoZone.com
 
  #13  
Old 11-17-10, 06:15 PM
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Somebody that likes to type should mention the procedure for checking fuel pressure.
 
  #14  
Old 11-18-10, 04:46 AM
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If his is like mine there's no test port so will need an adapter; I defer to the Master.
 
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Old 11-18-10, 05:34 AM
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(Quote) Somebody that likes to type should mention the procedure for checking fuel pressure.

Good point not the only mechanic here
donít want to hog the whole show
thought Iíd let you post the
procedure for confirming
fuel pressure.
 
  #16  
Old 11-18-10, 03:59 PM
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Dr. Love, let's start out with whether it has a test port or not. If it does it should be somewhere near the throttle body or the rear of the engine compartment near the firewall perhaps. If it has a port all you need to do is beg, borrow, or steal a gage to connect. If no port, you will either need an adapter or a gauge kit that includes an adapter. Try checking with local parts houses, many have tool loaner programs and may have a gauge kit. If you need to buy an adapter let me know; I can give you a link for one I bought recently for my truck.
 
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