**Automotive Detailing Thread** NO ADVERTISING!

What's best to use on a white convertible top to get it back to looking like new? Ours isn't totally nasty but needs a good cleaning.

 

It sounds like you used a single stage paint from what you said. If it got cool where you sprayed or rained, high moisture in the air it will come out that way. You can try ultrafine wet sanding the car and then buffing it to get that haze out of it.

 

Westly,s bleach white whitewall cleaner. Make sure you wet the paint on the car and keep it rinsed as it can streak your paint. I have taken white tops that were almost black with this and scrubbed them clean with a scrub brush.

 

Glad that your forum is available. I have a 2001 Honda Accord. The driver side leather seat is showing some wear, but otherwise the interior looks clean. Except an area in front of the console/gear shift; it is an uncovered area which goes partially under the dashboard. I have probably cleaned it with the wrong type of cleaner because it is now sticky to the touch. Is there something that I could apply to this?

 

A bunch of cars from work got a light overspray of Poly_Urethane foam from workers fixing the roof. They are going to have the cars washed, clay bar and rinsed. After that it's up to us.

What do I need to do to get my car back to shiny and protected? Wax? Top coat? Heavy duty something? Full detail? Is this a two or more step process?

My car is a 2004 Toyota Corolla. It's out in the Florida sun all day. Garaged at night. If I can do anything to it at this point to recover a bit of it's good looks then that would be great.

Any suggestions? Please
Thanks as always

 

A good paint sealer would be my next suggestion. A high quality sealer won't give you that huge color popping shine, but will protect the paint and leave it with a good shine. A follow up with a Carnauba wax will give you that color popping shine.
For the carnauba, you have a couple options (besides brands).
First off, natural or synthetic.
Natural carnauba wax is said to give the best finish, with brighter colors and cleaner finish. It does however not last as long as the synthetic stuff and would have to be reapplied over the course of a summer.
Synthetic still offers an amazing finish, but is said to be not as color popping as the natural stuff. It does however last longer and can be easier to apply then the natural wax. It does also tend to cost a few dollars more then the natural stuff.

Next, paste or liquid....
I like paste. It's harder to apply and buff clear, the finish is worth it. It will be time consuming and will require more patients.
The liquid is easier to apply and wipe clean. It'll cost a bit more as you get less for the same price as the paste.

Above all... detail your car in a garage is the best. It keeps the flying dust away, and the car out of the sun while working. A bright light to work under is a must if you're going for car show finish.

I'm not a pro detailer (not an income for me), but always had my summer daily driver, car show ready at any given time.

 

Paint sealer? I saw something called "sealer and glaze". Is that what you're talking about? And then a good Carnauba wax - right?

Thanks

 

Each company uses different terms for products that do the same thing. A quick google search yielded the terms "Wax", "Paint Sealant" and "Polishing Glaze".

Using the Mothers brand for example (I personally use a combination of different company's products, not just Mothers), Their Step 2 in the California Gold line is called "Micro-Polishing Glaze". This is a paint sealant. The "Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax " (step 3 of their line) is will also protect your paint, but is designed to enhance to look more then protect.

Hopefully I didn't confuse things.
It's really hard to get into details without specifying products. Most consumer brands will call their paint sealer "Wax" where the same or similar product marketed to enthusiast may be called a sealer.
The last step of using Carnauba wax is more to get the really great look.

With our two (4 wheeled) vehicles, I'll use a sealer and carnauba wax on my car (makes the brilliant black pop). On our van, I'll use just the sealer which still makes the silver paint look good.

 

I would suggest you be aware of the possibility that the foam as it dried could have etched ther clear coat.
Urethane foam when wet can be corrosive to some materials and where it is removed could show up as spots in the finish.

I would suggest that after they clean the surface you do not do anything as there could be permanent marks.
Leave it for a few days and before signing any release papers look closely for any marks where the overspray landed in case you need to have the clear coat reapplied.

 

AAAUUUGGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!

 

I've always been a fan of Rain-X (the glass treatment).

Does anyone know if there's any advantage/disadvantage of simply putting a coat of carnuba wax on the windows instead?

 

I have and still do this both on the windshield and the headlights, although I'll use a more durable sealer wax then carnuba.
I have a couple old buffer pads (applicator pads to be honest), that I'll use to buff the sealer in on the glass. Not sure if it is any better then by hand, but it saves on the arms.

Using it on the glass has the same affect as rain-x (beading water, etc), but does make bug removal a lot easier and for winter driving, helps make removing the salt settlement on the lights. It may also help reduce the amount that sticks to them, but I have nothing to prove or disprove this.

 

Next issue.

Someone tracked gum into my Escape. On the removable floor mat.

I tried the Freezer Trick. Didn't work.

I heard that peanut butter or hair spray may remove gum. 'Any opinions?