**Automotive Detailing Thread** NO ADVERTISING!

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  #1  
Old 10-31-08, 04:12 PM
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**Automotive Detailing Thread** NO ADVERTISING!

I created this sticky thread for any members with automotive detailing tips, tricks or questions.

Please keep all posts within this sticky related to automotive detailing.

There will be NO ADVERTISING allowed. Advertisers posts will be removed and the member will be permanently banned.
 
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Old 11-01-08, 04:35 PM
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Auto Detailing Thread. Lets Keep it going!!

Hello all. I posted a while ago to see if I could help start an Auto Detailing forum. Well thanks to some people on here we have one.
So I am here to help. If anyone has any questions about detailing cars, trucks, SUV's, motorcycles, etc or have any questions on how to detail certain parts of the vehicle please post here. I will be glad to help!! Thanks so much!!
Chris Plank
 
  #3  
Old 11-05-08, 05:33 PM
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Quick question... How many times can you use a claybar before it becomes too contaminated? Does it deteriorate with age?

Thanks
 
  #4  
Old 11-05-08, 07:07 PM
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Sorry for the Previous Post. This one is more reader friendly!!!

Washing your car is like changing your oil; it needs to be done regularly to keep your car healthy. However, just as inferior oil can shorten the life of your car's engine, washing with a bad wash mitt or drying with an inferior drying towel will cause paint damage. The #1 culprit of paint damage (swirl marks, cob web effect, paint dullness) is a poor wash mitt or sponge. Even a good wash mitt can cause damage if it's not kept clean. Bad or inappropriate drying towels run a very close second to inferior or dirty wash mitts. Microfiber detailing towels, not old bath towels are the appropriate choice for drying your car. HERE ARE SOME TIPS:

***NEVER USE DISH DETERGENT TO WASH YOUR VEHICLE*** Why?: Because it is designed to cut through any substance to get rid of it. So doing so it will remove all the wax from your car. Also some detergents have abrasives in it.

***IF YOU GO TO THE CAR WASH DON'T USE THE BRUSH TO WASH YOUR VEHICLE!!!*** Why?: People use the brush on tires and wheel wells where it can pick up stones & debris. So when your using it on your paint you will be amazed at the scratches it leaves.

*HATE THOSE WATER SPOTS THAT ARE DRIED ONTO YOUR PAINT AND WINDOWS AFTER YOU WASH YOUR CAR* After washing your vehicle use a 100% cotton terry cloth towel, chamois, or microfiber towel. This will prevent these annoying water spots.

***HOW TO WASH YOUR VEHICLE***

*NEVER LET SOAP DRY ON THE PAINT, DO SMALL SECTIONS AND SPRAY THE SOAP OFF*
First step is to walk around your vehicle before you do anything and check any spots you wanna spray with a special chemical that is specialized for bugs, tar, etc. (When doing so, do not use a brillo pad or scotch brite pad to scrub these areas!!! Use a designed brush for this)Also some products used to remove bugs and tar have chemicals that remove wax.
After that spray your car to get all the dirt and loose debris off the car. Second do the spot cleaning mentioned above. Third, now its time for the paint. Start at the highest point and work your way down. If you started from the bottom up, when you get to the roof and go to spray off all those suds, they will run down over all the previously cleaned areas.
This is my routine: Roof, Hood, Trunk,(RINSE) Front, one side,(RINSE) back and other side(RINSE) Tires/rims/wheel wells/mudflaps last. Never start with the tires/rims unless using a separate bucket. If you start here your water will be filled w/ all kinds of stuff that could scratch your paint.

***DEGREASE AND DETAILING THE ENGINE BAY***
There is nothing I love to see is a super shiny engine bay!! This is by far the way to make your car look new again. Care is to be taken when doing this. Make sure to inspect for damaged wires and loose connections. This can cause problems. If your skeptical you can use a baggie or something to that effect to cover those sensitive areas. You can use a pressure washer or the traditional hose. If your using a pressure washer don't spend a lot of time spraying those electrical wires and connections, spark plug areas, distributor, etc.
Also I have heard some people start their engines to warm any grease or oil up so that it comes off easier. I don't necessarily like this. If the engine gets to warm and you go spraying it off with cold water this could cause a cracked block. I know it sounds crazy, but vehicles now a days are not cheap.
Here is how to do it. First you wanna do this before you wash your car. Spray the engine bay with water. Then take your degreaser and start spraying from the lowest point to the top. Let it set a little bit say 1-3 minutes. Then take your hose and spray that off. You should see the difference while your spraying. Then I take a tire shine a spray that on while its still wet. The water that is on there helps distribute the tire shine evenly for a very nice look. Don’t forget to get the underside of the hood.
Well hope this helps some people out. I know there was a question about the engine detailing on my first post, so hope I answered it. I did not mention any of the product names I use b/c I didn't know if that would be considered as advertising or not. Feel free to post and ask questions. If I can't answer them I will find the answer for you. I am still in a learning process with some products.
Thanks
 
  #5  
Old 11-05-08, 07:26 PM
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Claying

This is one of the areas I am still learning about. Most consumer clay should only be done once or twice a year. If you have a professional grade you may do this about once a month. Claying to often can increase the risk of damaging your cars paint.(Marring, Scuffs, Scratch's) Some clays require a lubrication to help the clay glide over the paint and prevent sticking.
Discard the clay if dropped or when a clean surface can no longer be exposed.
There are alternatives to claying if you are not comfortable using a product that is used mainly by the pro's. It is a spray on cleaner/lubricant along with a cleaning block. One bottle and this block will do 20 cars.
Hope this helps. Sorry I can't list the name of the products. PM if you want them. I think it will be an advertisement and I don't wanna get in trouble for that!! -
 
  #6  
Old 11-06-08, 05:43 PM
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Thanks for the info. I usually cut the bar in half and use it that way if I drop it I still have the other half left. I usually use a brand name QD spray as lubricate and it does a excellent job.

I was told by someone else that if it looks dirty retire it...so i just went and bought another bar. Think I have done about 8 cars with it (4 on each half of the bar)
 
  #7  
Old 11-06-08, 06:10 PM
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Yeah, sounds like your using it right from what I have learned so far. I have only used clay a couple times. Plus clay is reasonably priced so you aren't throwing money away when you get rid of a half a bar. Thanks for posting! Would love to see this a permanent forum!!
Chris
 
  #8  
Old 11-17-08, 08:33 AM
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polishing compound

Should I use a polishing compound on an older car, black paint without clear coat? I plan on using a good wax after, but I just want to try to bring out the paint a bit before waxing---any suggestions?
 
  #9  
Old 11-18-08, 06:17 AM
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Is the finish a dull black?? Is it rough?? I have never had this problem b/c all my cars I detail have clear coat. I am doing some research and asking friends. I did find a wax made by mequire's that in the application section says you can use it on clear coat or cars w/o clear coat. The only thing I am worried is you apply the wax/compound and it will just dry right on and not come off, kinda like when you get wax on your plastic trim. I will post back with an answer!! Thanks
 
  #10  
Old 11-19-08, 06:19 AM
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My black paint is not dull, still has some shine to it, it's just a bit rough. The car is a 95 altima. I use Turtle wax Ice--it's a synthetic wax that can go on everything but the glass--it doesn't dry white and they say it can go on in sunlight. I have used it before on this car and like it--I just want to clean up the paint a bit before waxing. A black car in Texas, talk about hot!

Also, can canuba wax be affected by hot sun after it's applied?
I mean after it's applied and buffed off a temperature appropriate surface.

Thanx
 
  #11  
Old 11-19-08, 06:29 AM
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Another question.

What is good to use on windows? is there a window wax or something like that out there?

Thanx
 
  #12  
Old 11-19-08, 10:03 AM
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Since your paint is rough, I would use some kind of wax or compound that has a cleaner in it. If you know how to high speed buff, I would use the compound first, then the wax.

Carnauba wax is a great wax and it brings out the most in your paint. It can be a little pricier than the traditional wax's. It don't last as long either like wax does. Traditional length is roughly 2-4 months. You can apply it to a panel/section and remove. You don't need to wait for a hazing effect b/c there won't be any.

I use Malco Imperial paste wax. It is also has carnauba wax in it and contains an anti swirl agent. It leaves a great smooth finish. Its like ice on the car. I love it and have only used that. I did try a meguire's product and didn't like it at all. There was wax dust all over the car when I was done. Its best to do all your waxing in the shade. Also humidity plays a big role on how the wax is applied and removed. If its super humid out, the wax will not come off very easy.

About your windows. Well I have an inside hook up for that! HAHA My dad is in maintenance. He get the centers out of the floor pads they use to buff the floors where he works. They are great for removing bugs, water spots, tar, etc on the paint or windows. I spray my cleaner on the windows, use the pad then use a microfiber towel. Cleans up great w/ no streaks. If you mix up ammonia, vinegar, and water in a bottle that is one of the best window cleaners out there. I use it. I will have to get you the mix ratio. Its written down out in the garage. Hope this helps!!!!
 
  #13  
Old 11-20-08, 10:49 AM
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I have also had a BAD experience w/Mcguire's. I bought the full line to really go after some old paint on my '87 VW Golf. When I got to the wax part, the wax got sucked into the paint! I had white swirls marks in the paint I could not get out. That wax has also been hard to remove whenever I used it on any paint. Now it's Turtle wax Ice--synthetic and it goes everywhere except windows, leaves no white stuff in the seams/cracks.

Like the tip about floor buffer pads! I work in a hospital and see the housekeepers every night, time to schmooze 'em.

What type and where to get some good microfiber towels??

Thanx for the help/tips.
 
  #14  
Old 11-20-08, 02:32 PM
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Well I got mine from Sams club. They are blue. I am sure you could pick up a nice set from advance auto or autozone. I got them there b/c I got like 50 rags for 15 bucks. I love it. If you have rough hands though the fibers feel like they are sticking to your fingers. Its a weird feeling. Remember the buffing pads, they are only the centers of the pads. They get punched out so the big screw can fit in the hole of the pad. Make sure they aren't to rough either. THey are almost like a scotch sponge that you use on dish's. Hard to explain!!
 
  #15  
Old 11-21-08, 04:33 AM
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I understand what you mean by both!

The towels are very light blue. The fiancee (sp.) bought me some of those, probably @ Sams. I have kinda' messed up the few I have. One thing I do is put one out flat on my waxed car and use the orbital buffer on top of the towel to buff the wax off. Works well because all my other buffer covers are full of old wax and they do not shine up the finish like a clean, soft towel.

The buffer pads are green I believe.

Also, if you ever need a good bug&tar remover, I highly recommend Turtle wax in the black spray bottle, green label, red bug on it. Shake it up well, it's thick. I use it as a back-up parts degreaser too.
 
  #16  
Old 11-22-08, 07:14 AM
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For you waxing buffer pads, I use the terry cloth type to apply the wax. I use paste wax, I take a 2inch putty knife and scrape the wax out of the can and apply it to the terry cloth. That will usually do the whole hood. I will do the whole car, then clean the wheels and door jambs, then by then the wax is usually hazed over and I remove it with a microfiber buffing pad. I was using the microfiber pad to apply the wax but the wax seems to get super hard on the pad after it is washed. I was getting about 2 or 3 uses out of them. The terry cloth, I think I did about 10 cars out of the one pad.

For the tar remover I use Target. It is from Malco. It smells like gas. Once you break that bubble of tar, it just comes right off. Its great stuff. If you ever run out of tar remover, you can use gas on your vehicle!! As long as you going to be waxing it though right after.

THANKS!
 
  #17  
Old 12-28-08, 06:33 PM
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How do I remove swirl marks?

How do I remove swirl marks?

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  #18  
Old 12-29-08, 07:04 PM
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MPI - BUFF LITE™ II FINISHING CRÈME

This is a link to a product I use. It does great. This stuff has 1500 grit particles in it so it is kinda like a wet sand.

It does leave some dust behind, but after I use this I wax the car so by the time I am done there isn't any dust left. This needs to be used with a high speed buffer/polisher. They run about 200+. Depends on how deep they are or how visible, but you may be able to get them out by hand. If you do try this, don't push to hard or you'll create more marks in the paint. This stuff works great for those scratches under the door handles. They come from your fingernails, or item you may have in your hand when you open the car door. They leave fine scratches.

If these scratches are deeper and you wash your car a lot or take it through an automatic washer this product will only hide it for a while as it gets washed out so to speak. That is only if they are deep.

Can you see white in the scratch or is the paint just faded in the swirl?

Let me know how you make out!
 
  #19  
Old 02-16-09, 05:59 AM
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attention automotive painters

hopefully i have gotten somebody's attention that can help me, OK, i have a 1985 318i BMW and i needed to paint it due to clear coat peeling and a nasty blister that went down to the metal on the hood, well i prepped it and shot the first coat of diamond black metallic paint. code #181, the first coat never looks the best I'm assuming, the second coat went on very nice and shiny, went home and came back to the shop the next morning and it seems that the finish has a haze or a cam shell hue to it. when you look at it the light above seems to be clear and shiny, but to step back and look at the finish it has that hue, what did i do wrong??
thanks for any input in advance, Chris
 
  #20  
Old 02-16-09, 06:44 AM
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Divot,

What type of primer? Did you sand between coats? Where was this sprayed?
 
  #21  
Old 02-16-09, 07:16 AM
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primer type

the primer is ppg and yes i sanded between coats and it is in a heated pole barn, i work at a golf course
 
  #22  
Old 02-16-09, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by divot91 View Post
the primer is ppg and yes i sanded between coats and it is in a heated pole barn, i work at a golf course
Could have been the temperature and the fact a barn is not a good place to spray a car. Dirt, dust, etc will get under the finish resulting in a blotchy job.
 
  #23  
Old 02-16-09, 07:37 AM
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blochy finish

how can i save this paint job?
 
  #24  
Old 02-16-09, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by divot91 View Post
how can i save this paint job?
Sand it off and respray in a booth, or prep it all yourself and have one of those MAACO type places spray it for about $200-300.

Won't be no factory finish, but it will look decent.

A good factory finish will cost thousands.
 
  #25  
Old 02-17-09, 09:55 AM
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Thumbs up

to remove tar you can use WD-40
 
  #26  
Old 02-21-09, 03:44 PM
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Clear coat peeling

I have a black sunfire and the clear coat is coming off on the rear scoop and behind the moon roof, can you buff that out or is there anything else I can do except repaint??
 
  #27  
Old 02-21-09, 04:02 PM
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Randy..its pretty much a repaint...
 
  #28  
Old 03-05-09, 01:02 PM
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hotinOKC i found the cause

it seems i sprayed the first coat on OK, but the second coat i messed up bad , I'm old school painter and didn't research the new characters of the paint thats available now a days, well, i just simply shot the second coat on way to heavy, and the reducer got trapped in the paint i was trying to get the old wet enamel shine i needed to dust the second coat on for matallic to be even and for the clearcoat to grab on to, i need a red foreman boot
oh well, geuss ill sand it and shoot a dusting on it and get some clearcoat on the car.
thanks again OKC
 
  #29  
Old 08-22-09, 03:34 PM
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I used a dish detergent on my car without realizing it would cause damage to the paint... Is there any thing i can Do now, besides repaint...
 
  #30  
Old 08-22-09, 04:47 PM
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Dish soap shouldn't "damage" the paint...but it might strip off any wax or sealer you had. Wash it again with a car wash and then try rewaxing..or take it to a detailer and have them clay bar it.

JMO..no expert.
 
  #31  
Old 08-22-09, 04:49 PM
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Thumbs up Welcome to our forums Steve!

Any damage would be with long term use.
It strips off any wax that is on the surface.
Use a good hand applied wax, plenty of elbow grease and the paint will be fine.
 
  #32  
Old 09-21-09, 08:31 AM
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Smile Maybe this will work

You could try an all in one product like the glosser. I have used it quite a bit and it gets all of the film and dirt off and leaves a nice waxed finished all in one step. I'm a fan of easy when it comes to car care and this is about the best you can get. Best of all they are fairly inexpensive. Just a thought. Hope it works out well for you.
 
  #33  
Old 10-05-09, 05:56 PM
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I also agree, but for those car fanatics out there, time or money isn't an issue. When I do a car it takes me a while. I am not your drive up and in an hour or less your car is spotless kinda worker! I do about 60 cars a yr and charge no more than 125 for the biggest kind of vehicles. I just did a van this past weekend and it took me 5 hours! That is from engine, to wax, shampoo, everything!!

Also I have found out the hard way, thankfully on my own vehicles that cheap is not always the easiest way either!! A cheap wax for example will give you swirl marks and make your job even harder!
 
  #34  
Old 10-19-09, 10:27 AM
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HELP! ran short on clearcoat

car needs 1-2 more coats, ran out last night after supplier was closed, been 12-13 hrs since i sprayed. its Omni brand CC # MC260, can i save this paint job? somewhere i read you have a 24 hr. window with some CC? any truth to this? any help would be great guys, thanks
 
  #35  
Old 05-29-10, 04:28 PM
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Mesh onion bags work good for bug removal from windshields too. Also you can allegedly remove tar with peanut butter
(cannot speak from personal experience, saqw it in a helpful hints book).
 
  #36  
Old 12-17-10, 11:37 AM
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Tree Sap Remover

Use hand sanitizer on Tree Sap on the paint. The alcohol in it breaks down the sap in about 15 seconds, use clean terry cloth to get it off the paint. It works on windshields as well, but not as efficiently. Do this in the shade.
 
  #37  
Old 07-10-11, 07:44 PM
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spot of rust

Hey, guys! Haven't been on diy.com in a while, so its nice to see a thread JUST for detailing. Here's my issue:
A small object hit the top of my roof. Didn't notice it until my last wash/wax job. Now there's a spot of rust about 1 cm wide. It's a 2008 Prius, so what do you recommend I do? I've heard/read all kinds of stuff, but wanted to be sure before I invest a bunch of $$ and time.
I'd greatly appreciate any help!
Thanks!
 
  #38  
Old 11-06-11, 04:46 PM
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Spot of rust

I've got a small spot of rust on the roof of my car, no bigger than the tip of a pencil eraser. What's the best way to remove it?
 
  #39  
Old 11-07-11, 06:04 AM
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Don't know what a pro would do, but for me I would dab a little rust conversion product on it and then top coat with touchup paint.
 
  #40  
Old 01-02-12, 08:21 AM
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For chipped paint, its best to get OEM touch up paint. I believe it the touch up paint should have a clear coat with it to prevent the rust from spreading.
 
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