Brake pade replacement w/abs

Hi guys/girls,
I have always done all of my brake work and most of all my automotive repairs for the past 40 years (yep, I am old). My new(er) Scion Xa is the very first car I have ever owned with ABS. I am nearing the time when I will need to replace the pads on the front of my car. Is there truth to what I have heard about doing damage to the ABS by pushing the piston back into the caliper without opening the bleeders? Please advise. Thanks..

 

I've never opened the bleeders to change pads. I usually take the brake reservour cap off while compressing the piston back in. Treat it as car w/out ABS, just be careful of the ABS sensor cable.

 

I've done like HotinOKC says on several cars with ABS without any problems. Watch the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow, though.

QC

 

Hi Zacman777
We are playing in the same team
I started to maintain my car in 1970 and have never stopped.
Recently, for the first time, I had to change brake pads on my daughter's WV Polo with ABS.
No worry, except the wire connecting the sensor, it is just like if there was no ABS at all.
For extra safety I had bled the cylinders alone : fit a piece of rubber petrol pipe on the bleeding valve, attach an aquarium plastic pipe so you can see the liquid and create the vacuum with your mouth, it works!
The ABS is working thoroughly, but the maintenance light is still on. It must be switched off by the garage's computer
Never mind! I know that pads are brand new.

 

Agree 100% I do not open the bleeders to push the pistons in, but I do open the top on master cylinder.

 

Thanks everyone. Sounds like it is no different than all other pad replacements. I too have opened the cap on the reservoir when pushing the piston back in. For how easy pads are to replace, I have never understood people paying the amount of $ that the garages charge.
Thanks again...

 

Any brake work is not that difficult even work beyond the pads and you save a bundle doing it yourself. The one plus when I do it is that I know that it's done right. I had problems with brake and other jobs at some service stations in the past which led me to start doing my own decades ago. I've never looked back.

 

Having been out of the loop for a while,,before I did mine I checked with two brake shops and they both warned me not to push fluid back in the lines. I did as they said and had no problems. A friend was going to have his son do his so I told him what I had heard. The boy didn't listen and ended up with a mess that took $800 to fix. I suppose if the fluid is clean there is no problem??? Your call. RW

 

one thing that most people over look is Dot 3 brake fluid is hydroscopic, that means it absorbs water out of the air, the fluid should be flushed at least every 2 years to remove the contaminated fluid and keep the system working properly, yeah i know that you have never done that before but that just means you have been lucky, i personaly bleed mine every time i do any thing to the brakes, brake fluid is cheep and a little pm goes a long way.

if we're not supposed to eat animals why are they made out of meat?

 

I am interested in flushing all the old brake fluid out and I would like to know if there is a simple method to doing this?

My book says to start at the right, rear wheel and bleed that first. I would like to know is there an easier method than the old "Loosen the bleed screw, press pedal to the floor, hold pedal down, retighten, slowly let pedal back up, repeat repeat repeat. . . .?? Something like loosening the bleed screw and sucking out the old fluid all at one time.

Oh, older car, no ABS!

 

Cbuddy2005
Your manual is mainly advising who to bleed.
For eliminating all liquid, yes you can open the bleed screw on one rear wheel and pump several times in order to send air in the pipe.
Then tighten the screw and go the the other rear wheel and so on until the front wheels.
A daring solution should be to loosen the pipe from the master cylinder and blow air to get rid of old liquid, but it is tedious.
When you have finished with your flushing job, tighten all screws and begin to fill the master cylinder with brand new liquid.
You can save some pumping by loosening the screw on one wheel, following the order of the manual and waiting some liquid to flow and tighten this screw.
After this process on all wheels you can start the bleeding process.
Usually my wife is at the steering wheel and has known the ritual for 30 years! Press! Release! Press...ad so on.
Sometimes you must be very patient because a bubble stays on the upper part of a pipe and it has to go away.
If nobody is helping, follow my tip with the aquarium plastic pipe , but beware! do not suck liquid in your mouth is is awfully bitter! Better drink Cabernet
Good luck!
Marc