I have a '96 Dodge Grand Caravan SE with 3.3 engine and 227,000 miles. It won't start, will crank fine but doesn't even attempt to turn over. Smell gas every time when cranking so I put an inductive pick-up timing light on the plug wires (one @ a time) and cranked engine. No spark on any of the plug wires.

I checked the Automatic Shutdown Relay and it's appears to be working. When cranking I got 8.8 volts to GND on terminal 86(coil battery) and 1.4 volts to GND (NEG battery terminal) on terminal 85(coil GND). Is 1.4 volts from ASD coil GND to NEG battery terminal normal? Does it have a bad GND connection?

I then checked the ignition coil with a digital ohmmeter and all the coils ohmmed within spec according to the Haynes manual. So then checked the B+ terminal (12 volts) on the ignition coil connector while cranking and did get about +10 volts.

Any ideas on what to check next? I have an LED-type voltage tester and was thinking about checking the coil driver circuits on the PCM by attaching the positive lead to +12 volts and probing the 3 driver circuit pins on the ignition coil connector while cranking. Is this the correct procedure? Don't want to blow up PCM - if it isn't already shot.

Any help would be greatly appreciated - Thanks!

TLH

 

Can't answer your questions; may be crank sensor or camshaft position sensor: Go to for process:
AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year

 

Have you pulled codes to see if anything comes up?

 

I did check for computer codes both ways - keyswitch & scanner - there was a 72 code, right rear catalyst
efficiency below required level. Also went to AutoZone troubleshooting site and started procedure to
troubleshoot no spark condition. Got to the last step which says "unplug the crankshaft position sensor
connector". I can't find it! The book states it is on the transaxle bellhousing. Is it on the top, bottom,
front, or back?

Thanks tow_guy and bob22.

TLH

 

I've no clue; autozone site says:
Crankshaft Position Sensor
On your 1996 Dodge Truck Grand Caravan 4WD (3.0L MFI), the Crankshaft Position Sensor is located:
Under hood, driver side, rear engine area, mounted top rear of engine

Best luck with the project.

 

checked power the ignition coil should be a gr/or wire or so, its a 6cyl so the coil shoule have 4 wires, the rest is the coil driver wires which provide ground, connect one end of test light to power and probe the coil connector circuits.

 

Checked the 3 ignition coil driver circuits at the ign coil connector. Used an LED test light with one end tied to
positive, and probed the 3 driver circuits while cranking
engine. The LED flashed on & off repeatedly with two driver circuits, so I assume they are good, but the
3rd driver was grounded all the time (thus lighting LED constantly). Checked grounded circuit with key out
of ignition & it was still grounded.

What are your thoughts? Bad PCM? Bad wiring?

 

if its a wire shorted to ground it should still start or at least sputter on the 4 cylinders, what about the or/gr wire (I think its the color) it's the asd wire. it should have power for a few secs when you turn the key on. If that checks good, I would remove the grounded wire from the coil connector and reconnect and check

 

would check for spark again as kumai mentioned above that 2 coils should be working if you have power to the coil and the pcm is pulsing ground to two of the circuits it should have spark on some of the cylinders and the engine will usually run on 4 cylinders but not well, you may have to manually check for spark as you inductive pickup timing light may not be able to detect spark on a dis ignition system.
if you disconnect the pcm and coil connectors and you still have a full time ground on the driver circuit you need to check the wiring for a short, if you lose ground and the wiring looks ok would suspect a pcm problem but you should always check the powers and grounds going to the pcm before condeming it.

 

Thanks bejay, kumai, bob22, & the_tow_guy for
all the help.

I took the grounded pin out of the ignition coil
connector & was able to run it on 4 cylinders.
The shorted pin must have robbed enough juice
to prevent the other 2 coils from firing.
Then I disconnected the battery & removed the
PCM connectors, checked the bad pin & it was
not grounded.

So, does everybody agree it looks like a bad PCM?
Or is there anything else I should check?

Does anybody have any recommendations
on rebuilt, used, or repair shops for PCM's?

Thanks for everything,
TLH

 

would see your local dealer for a remanufactured pcm you may have to take the vehicle to them as many pcm require programming and if that is the case for your model I would just let the dealer install it.

 

saw this on rockauto.com:
RockAuto Parts Catalog

 

Went to a local junkyard for a PCM because this old beast with 228,000 miles is not worth putting 100's of $$$ into.
Found a PCM with identical part number, slapped it in & checked a few things, then fired it up. Runs like a champ,
well, more like a 13 year old beater that's great for driving to work. Talked to the guy at the junkyard that got the part
for me and he put a '98 PCM into a '96 dodge caravan
and he said it didn't miss a beat.

Thanks for everything!! Great website!!

TLH