overheating again

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Old 03-27-09, 05:45 AM
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Angry overheating again

I have a 99 Kia Sportage 4X4 and a few weeks ago it overheated while i was on the interstate so i got it towed to my local garage.
A few hoses , a new thermostat and new bypass hose later i got it back from them.

i have only driven it back and forth to work , about 11 miles, and for the most part the tempgauge is in the normal position until i near the end on my journey and it starts to climb in between 3/4 and H.
Today when i got home and switched the engine off i heard hissing and the coolant was steaming out of the overflow bottle.
Any ideas what it might be? it has already cost mt $500 and obviously it still isn't fixed.
 
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Old 03-27-09, 05:53 AM
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The $64,000 question is how bad it was overheated. You could very easily have a head gasket issue. That's something that should have been checked by the garage.

Having said that, it would have been good to replace the radiator cap.
 
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Old 03-27-09, 05:59 AM
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the guy at the garage said the cylinder head was ok
 
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Old 03-27-09, 06:15 AM
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quick question

How easy should the fan be to stop while the engine is running?
I just rolled up 1 sheet of newspaper and pushed it into the fan and it stopped it, as soon as i took it out again the fan started spinning again.
 
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Old 03-27-09, 06:33 AM
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I've never done a test quite like that, but it depends on the temperature conditions.

Here's some additional info:

http://www.mwrench.com/Whitepapers/FanClutchtest.pdf
 
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Old 03-28-09, 07:31 AM
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Have you gone thru the normal procedures to reduce/eliminate overheating yourself ? :

1. Use a heavy duty detergent ON all sides of the radiator and condensor followed by a good flushing with hose. Be careful not to bend any fins.

2. Clean out cooling system internals by adding Prestone Cleaner followed by their Tee flush as directed on the package. Open block drain valves while your flushing.

3. If you live in a climate where it doesnt get below 20 f, then run 75% water to 25% coolant ( water is best for heat removal ) . If it never gets to 32 f, then run even less coolant . Add a bottle of RedLines Water Wetter which is a good surfactant and has pump lubricant and anti rust agents in it.

4. At idle, run your engine to 3,000 rpms and see if the lower radiator hose collapses .

5. Even though your belts are new, examine for slippage .

If none of the above helped, then id remove the engine thermostat as a temporary measure until the problem can be isolated and fixed. (Ive removed my thermostat in the past with good results and no adverse affect on the engine).
 

Last edited by RVlover; 03-28-09 at 07:33 AM. Reason: Typo made in #1 .
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Old 03-28-09, 10:27 AM
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Are you 100% sure the repair guy bled all the air out of the system when he changed all those parts? it would not be unusual for airlock after, because they rushed the bleed process.
 
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Old 03-29-09, 04:11 AM
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Question

in answer to the flushing, i didn't do that myself,but is was supposed to be done by the "professionals"

It was a nice day yesterday so i pulled out my lawn chair , started the car up and listened and watched the cooling fan for a good 30 mins ( boring , i know) It never cycled once but it did increase ever so slightly when i put more rpm.
So me in my infinite wisdom decides it IS the fan clutch
How hard can it be to replace, only 4 bolts , right?
Well, try as i might i couldn't get those suckers unfastened even after lots of liquid wrench.

so i have another question.............would they by any chance, tighten and losen the opposite way than normal?

standing infront of the car, my fan rotates clockwiseBeer 4U2
 
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Old 03-29-09, 12:23 PM
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I have mentioned this in other posts but at most auto parts stores there is a product called PB blaster. It is so strong that it can dissolve a styrofoam cup. Using it I was able to take out bolts for an 89 Cherokee that should never have been taken out. The can costs something like $4 and is stronger than liquid wrench.
 
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Old 03-29-09, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nightowlpunk View Post
I have mentioned this in other posts but at most auto parts stores there is a product called PB blaster. It is so strong that it can dissolve a styrofoam cup. Using it I was able to take out bolts for an 89 Cherokee that should never have been taken out. The can costs something like $4 and is stronger than liquid wrench.
Ill try PB..sounds good. What other uses does it have ? Thanks. David.
 
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Old 03-29-09, 01:34 PM
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Same as most other products of this genre, prevents rust, helps loosen bolts, stops squeaks etc.
 
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Old 03-29-09, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike.B View Post
Are you 100% sure the repair guy bled all the air out of the system when he changed all those parts? it would not be unusual for airlock after, because they rushed the bleed process.
I'd agree with above, sometimes it's not so easy to get all the air out of the system when refilling coolant. But it is important.
 
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Old 03-31-09, 05:47 AM
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thanks for all your replies , guys
Turned out it WAS the fan clutch, so i swopped it out and it runs fine now
 
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Old 03-31-09, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nightowlpunk View Post
......a product called PB blaster. It is so strong that it can dissolve a styrofoam cup.
Just thought I'd mention that from a scientific standpoint, that just because something is strong enough to do one thing, does not mean it is strong enough to do something unrelated. For example - bleach is so excellent at removing mildew that you can spray it on and the mildew disappears without even touching it! However, the same cannot be said if using bleach to try to remove soap scum, for example.

Not do say that PB Blaster does not accomplish the task it is supposed to. Just making a point that validating one point does not necessarily validate something else.
 
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