1993 Jeep Cherokee Problems

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  #1  
Old 03-31-09, 02:40 PM
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Question 1993 Jeep Cherokee Problems

Hello. My friend just bought a jeep off of a lady for pretty cheap. It's a 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 and carbureted. It hesitates starting. When you rev it to about 3000-4000 rpms in park the engine will just die. She says driving it around feels like it's just going to crap out and stall...And it has. Her battery was pretty corroded and the wires on one side we replaced. I wonder if it is an electrical problem still though because her stereo and dash lights flicker on and off, but I'm not sure if that's a direct link to the starting/stopping problem or completely in left field.

Also she has a slight oil leak. It drips enough to go through about a quart every two weeks... So maybe not so slight. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with where a usual 93 jeep Cherokee oil leak comes from. It looks like the valve cover is leaking slightly. She took it to Pep Boys and they told her the oil filter was leaking and her oil pan gasket is leaking. I haven't checked yet, but I like to get others opinions and experiences on it before I take a parts shop word for it. Or to have her spend the money for a mechanic to look at it, or even rip her off! Also wondering if it is an oil pan gasket leak, how easy is it to change yourself? If anyone has any ideas, it's greatly appreciated!!

-Renae
 
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  #2  
Old 03-31-09, 03:20 PM
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4.0 came out in 87........It was never carbed, always an injected engine. They often have issues with the crank sensor and this could be why she wants to stall.......A weak or intermitent magnetic pulse .........Yep the valve covers leaked...in some cases the entire cover needed to be replaced. But if I was a betting man I'd be looking for a rear main seal ...........fairly easy to do on that model
 
  #3  
Old 04-01-09, 07:43 AM
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jeep

My son had one that leaked from the o ring where the filter housing mounts to the block. These things are notorius for leaking oil but they wiil run forever.
 
  #4  
Old 04-03-09, 10:31 AM
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I realized it wasn't carbed when I finally went to work on it, and I felt like an idiot that I put on here that it was. It definitely needed a tune up. I dunno the last time those spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, or rotor was changed! It all looked frosty! Only problem is, and I think this was because someone never took care of it and it was also from back east, is that when I went to take the distributor cap off (because it too was corroded) I unscrewed one screw just fine, the other one was seized in and snapped off and is now stuck in one side of the rest of the distributor. So I got the cap off, I just can't put the new one on.

I haven't checked the rear seal, I will defintely check that when I get to the garage today. I did realize that it is leaking from the valve gasket but also its leaking WAY more from the oil pan gasket. Ventilation on Jeeps, I have heard, isn't that great. I went to check the PCV hose and when I took off the hose that goes from the valve cover to the exhaust manifold? (pretty sure that's what it was going into. Not too familiar with jeeps) it was only being held to the manifold by a piece of fuel line that wasn't hose clamped (and that was actually too big) and the on the other end attaching it to the valve cover, the rubber was rotted and it just broke off. So I think I've found the ventilation problem and the reason for so much pressure to blow the oil pan gasket. I just hope I can find the part somewhere today, or find a clever work around. I mean, the poor jeep has 254,000 miles on it, but I want to get it at least running well for my friend because it's the only car she has.

Thanks for the advice... Jeeps are a beast. It's already lasted this long, I just hope I can make it last a while longer...
 
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Old 04-03-09, 04:55 PM
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Not sure of the years involved. Been quite a while but the "PCV" system was not a valve on some. Was a grommet in the valve cover with a specific sized hole to breath crank vapors.........People who didn't know often pushed the tube too far into the grommet.....or the hole closed up from crud.

rear seal is accessed by removing the pan and the rear main bearing cap.. Half the seal stays with the cap half goes around the crank and needs to be removed CAREFULLY with a punch, Hammer, and needle nosed pliers........If the unit has a ton of miles on it I'd inspect the bearings (maybe a little plastigauge????) while I was there.You'll already be lookind at the rear main.....
 
  #6  
Old 04-03-09, 05:48 PM
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How does the engine behave when revving it from 750-3,000, let's say? And also when she shifts it in drive and starts to go, under load? And what about crusing at say 1800-2200 rpm/s when not really under all that much load?
 
  #7  
Old 12-07-09, 08:52 AM
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Jeep issues?

I also have a older model jeep cherokee.
they are notorious for oil leaks at the rear main seal and at the oil filter housing.
As for the stalling most likely it is the crank positioning sensor.
I have had this problem also. I''ve done lots of research online to solve this problem. Everywhere i turn i find that the crank positioning sensor is the problem. I bought one at a autoparts store for about $50. its hard to locate. they are mounted on the transmission bell housing at the rear of the engine on the drivers side near the top.(not easy to get to) good luck!!!

steve
 
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