Grinding/rumbling front left wheel

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-23-09, 11:48 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 219
Grinding/rumbling front left wheel

96 Geo Prizm 4 cyl 1.6 5 spd 99K (suspect more)

Recently purchased a 96 Geo Prizm with 99K on the odometer, engine and clutch are tight and responsive, but I suspect that the car has seen many more miles.

There is a rumbling/grinding sound coming from what sounds like the front left wheel well. Seems to be louder at higher speed although it doesn't change pitch with varying speed. Car turns and drives well, no clunking or banging.

I've heard suggestions of wheel bearing or hub.

Please tell me your ideas.

Thanks
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 05-23-09, 02:47 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 86
Wheel noise

Either wheel bearing - probably - or brake dragging. Suggest you jack up problem side, grasp the tire top and bottom and "wiggle" wheel. If wheel moves back and forth the wheel bearing is either loose or needs replacing. Otherwise, remove wheel and check brake componets.

BCNU

rebel
 
  #3  
Old 05-23-09, 03:24 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
A noisy bearing may not always show play Rebel.....

Drive the car in a straight line and listen to the noise. At the point where it becomes most pronounced, "Rock" the steering wheel from left to right. The noise should change as the "Sideways " load is applied...If it does...replace the hub bearings.

I'll probably catch someones wrath for this, but "Bite The Bullet, Suck it Up, spend the Green, " and Replace them as a Pair left and right......It saves the headache later on.
 
  #4  
Old 05-23-09, 05:44 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 219
Test drove and have some modifications to describe:

At low speed, sound does have lower frequency. At anything but very low speed, though the sound remains constant. I can also detect at higher speed a "whoop, whoop, whoop" sound that does vary with speed (although pitch remains the same). When I apply the brake there is no change to the sound except the faint whooping slows, so I doubt it is rubbing brake part. Here's the odd thing, the sound also doesn't seem to change when I rock the steering wheel.

What now?

Oh, is a "wheel bearing" the same thing as a "hub bearing?"
 
  #5  
Old 05-23-09, 06:17 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Iowa!!!!!
Posts: 3,740
Originally Posted by Unclediezel View Post

I'll probably catch someones wrath for this, but "Bite The Bullet, Suck it Up, spend the Green, " and Replace them as a Pair left and right......It saves the headache later on.
You wouldn't catch mine - that's good advice. If one needs replaced the other isn't far behind it. With both at the same time you only have one shop call.

Yes, wheel bearing = hub bearing. The wopping thing is probably a CV joint = half axle replacement.
 
  #6  
Old 05-23-09, 06:34 PM
nap's Avatar
nap
nap is offline
New Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: north
Posts: 4,163
check the tire for severe scalloping or cupping. I have seen supped tires make the most pronounced noise and rough ride when slow. The "whoop, whoop, whoop" kind of describes the sound a cupped tire makes.


If it is cupped, rotate the tires to see if the sound moves.


If no success, replace the hub bearings.
 
  #7  
Old 05-24-09, 05:10 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 86
Heck.

Aw, heck. If the wheel bearing is loose enough to make a "whomp" I'll bet it will "wiggle". Sometimes, a brake componet will go astray and create noises, though rarely.

I would take odds that you have a faulty bearing, however, I also like the suggestion of suspected CV Joint. Hope for a bearing, 'cause it will be a cheaper fix.
 
  #8  
Old 05-24-09, 06:48 PM
nap's Avatar
nap
nap is offline
New Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: north
Posts: 4,163
I have almost never had a cv make a noise while driving straight down the road. They make a heck of a racket on turns though. Study the design and you will understand why.

btw; I have let one on one of my cars get so bad it actually broke. The only noise prior to breakage was the clack, clack, clack when turning.


as to a bad bearing being loose when it is bad. Many times they are not. It doesn't take true looseness to make the grumble, just deterioration of the ball or race surface.

and cheaper to fix a bearing than a cv? not in a lot of cars.

from what I could see, for this car, if you replace the hub as well as the bearing, it is less expensive to r and r the shaft but they are not that far apart though.

one thing to look at while you are under the car looking;

is the boot on the cv join intact? If so, highly doubtful it has anything to do with the joint. If the boot is ruptured, it's time for a new joint regardless (btw; it is easier to replace the entire half shaft and usually just as cost effective)
 
  #9  
Old 05-26-09, 02:42 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 86
Costs

Cost for a bearing $30
Cost for a hub assbly /w bearing $119
Cost for a half axel shaft/w boot $85

The bearing is a cheaper fix.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes