Ruff Ideal, I mean rough idle – 2002 Toyota Sienna

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  #1  
Old 06-21-09, 09:48 PM
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Ruff Ideal, I mean rough idle – 2002 Toyota Sienna

I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna minivan with V6 that has been running great until the last many months. Here is what is does… It has been having troubles starting from time to time, specifically a rough idle when it first starts up. When the problem occurs it is hard to get it into gear without the car dying. Once it finally gets on the road and running there is no problem.

History: We bought the car used many years ago with about 34K at the time and now it has 105K. It’s been a very reliable van with no major problems and very few minor issues.

The problem occurs very infrequently. Maybe, once every one or two months. When it happens it only happens that one time and doesn’t happen a lot. I thought it might be a temperature issue nothing seems to correspond. Maybe a grade of gas, but we’ve tried all the grades and different stations with no change.

The issue occurred before the 100K mark and after this mark we had the following done since we plan on keeping the car for a while longer. Had the timing belt replaced and spark plugs (not wires) replaced. The spark plugs are the iridium type that’s only changed every 100K or so. I was hopeful there might be a change after this but I wasn’t so lucky. I even recently had to change the battery due to age and there hasn’t been a change. I’ve even run a can or two of fuel additive (Sea Foam and other) cleaner thru with no change.

When the problem hits, it runs rough - lower than normal idle and feels like it’s missing a cylinder(s). I can rev it up with no problem, when it comes back to an idle it dies. I have a 50/50 chance of keeping it running if I try and gently bring it back down from high rev to a normal idle…. Getting in to gear and moving is the tough part.

It doesn’t seem to follow if the engine is cold or warm.... The problem has happened on a cold engine or one that’s been driving for several minutes.

So here I am, asking for more trouble shooting ideas? Change the spark plug wires?? Fuel filter??? Retry any of the above ideas?
 
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Old 06-22-09, 05:28 AM
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Try the plug wires. You can also change the fuel filter if it's been a while, but I don't think that's the problem.
 
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Old 06-23-09, 05:56 AM
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the_tow_guy,

Thanks for the reply. Someone else mentioned the fuel filter as a possible suspect and I'll try that first since's it should be easy to get to.

Regards.
 
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Old 06-23-09, 10:57 AM
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Good plan. The fuel filter would be a routine maintance item anyway, so nothing lost if it doesn't fix the problem.
 
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Old 06-23-09, 11:56 AM
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Since this problem occurs only occasionally (once a month or two), should I reply back to this thread or start a new one since this thread might be "old"?
 
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Old 06-23-09, 12:14 PM
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Just mark it and reply back here. Once you reply, whats old is now new again...lol.

You can use the subscribe function under thread tools if you like.
 
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Old 06-23-09, 12:21 PM
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Hi ahenchmen, my sister had the simular problem your talking about, it was her fuel filter and she had a short in one of her wrires. Easy fixes. I too have a toyota and needed one wrire but had to buy all 4 it cost me 54 dollars, just thought i'd let you know. BTW I would start a new thread. God bless! christine P.S. Maybe you can get your codes read to help find the prblem. Some place do some for free. Good Luck!
 
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Old 06-23-09, 12:24 PM
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Hey thanx Gun Guy 45 did not know that.
 
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Old 06-23-09, 12:44 PM
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I assumed henchman meant if he had further questions for the same problem/vehicle or to update the results. Just easier to keep it all in one thread. I like the subscibe function when I really want to follow or follow-up on a thread...easier than searching 2 weeks later.

You can look at your subscibed threads under User CP.
 
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Old 06-24-09, 08:57 PM
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Thanks for the tips on how to re-address this thread.....


But before I go down that path I need to ask a simple question.

Where is the fuel filter located on a 2002 sienna?

I did a bit of research and what I found said there is a filter in the tank and one under the air filter box under the hood. I purchased a filter at an automotive store and it is not the tank type, it is an inline filter, the type to bolt to a frame or similar.

Tonight I pull the air filter box out of the engine compartment and...... I can't find the fuel filter.... where is it?

I even looked under my nose but it didn't see it. Any ideas?
 
  #11  
Old 09-21-11, 12:19 PM
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If nothing else you tried works you probably need to replace or clean you Idle Control Valve located on the throttle body. Takes between 1 and 2 hours depending on your experience.
 
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Old 09-21-11, 05:08 PM
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oh, wow. since 6/21 and 9 replies, NO ONE actually told him to read error codes?

1. ahen, go to any parts store and read codes.
2. you should not have plug wires. I am safely betting you have coil packs, one per each plug, and those are VERY RELIABLE and seldom go bad
3. you do have 2 filters; one is a pre-filter in fuel pump and one should be somewhere on the firwall, looks like a fist size barrel with 2 banjo pipe connections. they do look like banjos. I CAN BET IT IS NOT YOUR FUEL FILTER, as at only 100 plus thousand miles, they do not go bad. unless you drive on tar, not gasoline. you can change it if you want to, no big deal and expense, but why?

STOP REPAIRING ON A WILD GUESS. read error codes. most likely, you either have a bad sensor somewhere, or air leak. air leaks tend to be repetitive along with ambient temperature (outside temp), sensor can be whatever, or sensitive to humidity.

for the sake of it, dedicate some time and have full inspection under the hood done. look for loose connectors, hissing noises, loose vacuum hoses and lines, soot or spills. all engine servos, including idle speed valve, are computer controlled, and computer relies on sensors. hence, READ CODES.
 
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Old 11-07-11, 07:31 PM
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Just to update everyone with this thread. I've been a busy and haven't been able to keep up with my internet reply's.

Many thanks to all that have replied. Yes, checking codes is a good thing and I would have check if I had any. No check engine was on so couldn't go down this path.

I finally took the van to the dealership and the trouble shooting results was the IAC valve needed to be replaced as it was most likely dirty with carbon build up and it was going to cost, XXX. I don't recall the $ number but as a doityourselfer I knew there as a better way and cheaper way. The dealership actually proved to me they were right by starting the car with rough idle and then very gently tapping on the IAC valve area and wouldn't you know it, the car instantly rev'ed to normal idle.

After a bit more research online and youtube videos I found a quick fix by squirting some carb spray cleaner down the throttle body where the IAC valve. That seemed to work for short duration, weeks to months depending on how much build up would dissolve away at the time of use.

About 6 months ago I finally found some time to dedicate to this annoying issue. Rockauto.com prices for a new IAC where ??150??ish I decided to first try to take off and clean the IAC valve. After taking a couple pictures of the throttle body connections I was ready to start. I couldn't just take off the IAC valve off the throttle body because the position of the screws were upside down and not very accessible in the tight spot of the engine. So I end up taking off the entire throttle body.

With the entire throttle body off it was actually very easy to clean the IAC as well as the throttle body with an old tooth bush and carb cleaner. I actually also used some fluid from a can of carburetor soak fluid from Gunk. After a little bit of cleaning and rinsing it looked like new.

Put it all back together and it runs like new and has been for at least 6 months now. The van now has 146K and still running great.

Thanks again for the comments. Hope someone in the future can learn from this, that's why I like to document the results online when I can.

Thanks.

The final answer was a dirty IAC (Idle Air Control) valve.
 
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