2002 Chevy Venture Battery Light

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  #1  
Old 08-29-09, 09:01 PM
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2002 Chevy Venture Battery Light

Hello, I have a issue i've been dealing with for a month and need some help. 2002 Chevy Venture Battery light comes on for a few seconds then shuts off. Here's the history so far with this one. 4 weeks ago battery light came on and was on constant. One the way to local shop, abs light, traction light came on and then van when dead. The Alternator was bad and got that Replaced. A few days later, the battery light came on for a few seconds and then back off. No problems starting van or anything. Took back to shop and they said their was a issue noted by Chevy on battery cables. Mine did show some signs of battery acid on them. I went ahead and changed the cables myself (GM really loves their cables$$$$$) Both positive and neg replaced. Van was good for a week and today i Drove van for 35 miles, came to a stop light and the Battery Light came on again for 2 seconds then back off. Drove 15 more miles and nothing. My battery is ~1 year old. I;m taking it to sears tomorrow to have it tested. If it's good, I'm out of Ideas. ANy suggestions out their????
 
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Old 08-30-09, 07:48 AM
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It really can only be a few things when it comes to this:

1. Dead battery

2. Alternator

3. Cables

4. Slipping alternator belt

Definetly get the battery checked out.
 
  #3  
Old 08-30-09, 03:59 PM
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Battery checked out ok today. They did have to charge it, said it was a little low. After it was charged they tested it and said is was good. Plan to clean up terminals and see what happens. Seen a little corrosion on the neg threads. I replaced the belt about 4 months ago. Shop replaced the Alternator replaced 3 weeks ago. I replaced the battery cables last week.
How do you check for belt slippage? It has a tensioner pulley on it. I was thinking maybee a loose connector on the alternator as well??? I know the shop said it was hard to get to and do. Wonderings if a loose ground or connection maybe the cause as well. Plan on looking at that tonight as well.
 
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Old 08-30-09, 07:50 PM
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Items.

Check the battery terminals - are they tight?
Ensure serpentine belt is not slipping. Check deflection at the longest run on the belt.
Condition of serpentine belt? cracks / damaged v-grooves = replace.
Check alternator connection - tight?
Ensure all body ground are clean and tight on chassis.
What's the mileage?
 
  #5  
Old 08-30-09, 09:41 PM
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Square Head: Battery term's are tight. Have not checked deflection yet of belt. Belt is 4 months old. How much delection should i have? 1/4", 1/2"??? alternator connections are tight. body grounds are tight since i just replaced neg wire and pos wires. Miles are ~86000. (spark plug change soon)

Re-installed battery tonight and made sure all connections were tight. No battery light yet, but only had it running for about 20 minutes. It did this once i replaced the battery cables, took about a week for the light to come back on for a second. I'll have to see if problem comes back this week. Intermitant issues are a real pain.

Wondering if maybe starter could be an issue since the alternator ouput goes thru a fusable link into the starter assembly???
 
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Old 08-31-09, 09:06 PM
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Question

The belt should be very tight. 1/4'' of deflection max.
The solonoid on the starter could be stuck causing an open circuit. This would drain the battery.
When the Van is running, use a multi meter and check the volts across the terminals then right at the main lead off the alternator. It should read 13.5 volts or so. Are they the same??. If its less than 13v, the alternator is weak.
 
  #7  
Old 08-31-09, 09:18 PM
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Square Head. First of all thanks for your reply. Appreciate it.
This morning wife said light came on after ~10min's of driving then went off again. Drove probably total of 40 min's today and just the 1 light on/off indication.
Battery voltage is 12.4 volts with van off, and output of alternator is 14.5v.
Im kinda leaning away from solonoid because i would think over a week the battery would be dead and no starting at all.
I checked the deflection, which the longest run is from the tension pulley to a idle pully (~10 1/2" distance) and the deflection was 3/4 to 1". The tension pulley did move some when i pushed down on the belt. ALso check from off the alternator pulley to the tension pully and was about 3/4" deflection. I started van and watched the pulleys and can see a little wobble on the tension pulley. Do you think maybee belt got stretched during the alternator replacement? Or maybee the tension pulley? Seem's like the defelction is very high, but i'm not 100% sure I checked it since one of the 2 poins was the tension pulley creating movement. Do I need to check it on the longest run that's not a tension pulley Point?
 
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Old 09-03-09, 07:06 PM
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Update: Took the van to Chevy to have them check out this problem. They did a load test of 70a and the system was outputting 96a. No issues found wrong with the van. Belt was tight and pulleys/tensioiner ok. I drove off the lot and about 3 min's later, battery light again and then off. Then 10 min's later on/off again.

I noticed on the testing they had 105a alternator. But I know the van came with a 125a alternator. No stickers or nothing on the one the shop put in for me. I went to see the shop and they are going to look up what they put in and call me back tomorrow. I did get the tech to load test it and the weird thing was on the positive cable that runs to the engine fuse box was that the amps would go from 80a to around 50a when we rev'd the engine. Backwards when rev'ing. But amps comming right off alternator was steady and did not drop.

The only other parts that havn't been checked is the positive wire from the alternator with the fusable link that connect's to the started solinod, and then the Started. Going to do a resistance check on that fusable link while i'm waiting for the shop to tell me what amperage alternator they put in it. (hoping 105a then that would hopefully explain the interm battery light)
 
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Old 09-04-09, 01:51 PM
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Checked out the fusible link from alternator to starter solinode post. Checked out good. .3ohms and stays the same when i move it around. Cleaned up all the connections at the starter. Surprisnly it had some corrosion on it, my batt cleaner was bubbling around the post. polished up the connectors. Cleaned everything real good and then re-connected. Checkout outputs with engine running and it's better now. Voltage at battery ~13 and at fuse box ~13. Before i cleaned it all up bat ouput was ~13 and at fuse box ~10.

Went to shop and they did put the correct alt in the van. 120a. Got the tech to re-check the amp output and now the alternator output at the alt and the output at the fusebox are matched(more so than before). Yesterday they were different.

I'm keeping my fingers cross'd but I think this issue is licked. Time will tell. I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks for all the help.
 
  #10  
Old 09-08-09, 05:32 PM
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Hopefully, the issue is resolved.
FYI-the serp belt will not stretch from the alternator change. I was leaning towards the tensioner pulley.
How old is the battery anyway?
 
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Old 09-08-09, 09:32 PM
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Battery light still coming on. Came on 2x's today. Battery is 1year 3months old, sears battery. Tensioner pulley seems like it has tight tension. I was thinking if belt was slipping it would show signs of glazing on the belt. Belt is ~2months old and does not show any glazing, can see the fabric markings.

This is what i'm thinking. Interminant alternator output under load. I'm thinking since i see the lights dim during acceleration, the alternator may not be keeping up or interminantly dropping out. Then the vechile is pulling that missing power from the battery, the battery drops below 11.2 volts and kicks on my Battery light. then the alternator comes back and re-charges the battery. The schemtics for battery light show it will come on if one of the 3 conditions are meet: if voltage drops below 11.2v, above 16.5v, or a stopped generator. (battery light illuminates when key is put to on position due to stopped generator) Now with the car running at idle, everything tests fine around 13.4volts, which is not really using any battery power so the light should not come on. But if the alternator drops out or dips in voltage and the battery being used, the battery will not last that long along and trigger the battery light. What do you think?
 
  #12  
Old 09-09-09, 11:38 AM
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It sounds like the voltage regulator in the alternator is faulty. Does the unit have warranty? I'd take it out and take it back for an exchange.
Also, go with a quality unit like Hitachi or Champion. Much better components inside.
 
  #13  
Old 09-09-09, 12:19 PM
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Ya, the alt does have a warrnty to it. I already talked to the shop that installed it and they agreed with my diag and are going to warranty replace out the alt tomorrow, thursday. I'm not sure on what brand the alt is, but they will have to warranty it out with the same one. Hopefully this is it since the alt was the begining of all of this. Will update tomorrow.
 
  #14  
Old 09-09-09, 09:25 PM
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i hooked up my scanner to the van and monitored the battery voltage thru the scanner.
Keyon 11.9V
Started: 13.7 volts
Engine running/Air cond full on: 11.9V
Driving with air cond on: 11.4-11.9V
Idle after driving 5 min's: 11.5V

Drove to autozone and they tested battery first. Said voltage was a little low. Then the alternator test he said was all good. Alt peaked at 101amps, diode pattern was good, and regulator volts was 13.01v.

Not sure what's going on, still may be a interminent alt issue. New Alt will be installed tomorrow and will go from their.
 
  #15  
Old 09-10-09, 08:49 PM
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Alternaor replaced today. Initial drive from the shop show's improvement. I monitored the voltage thru my scanner while driving and battery voltage reading was 13.5. Driving with A/C full on and light's on high, voltage did not drop below 13.0. A/C is not slowing down either like before. Accelerating van and voltage still stays above 13. Turned on everything the van came with and still voltage above 13. I'm thinking problem is solved, but have to wait and see. I'll post an update in a week or 2.Beer 4U2
 
  #16  
Old 09-11-09, 07:57 PM
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Test the volts under the hood with a multi-meter and compare it to the scanner reading.
Do the hot lead (Red) on the alternator and at the battery as well. Glad to hear it sounds like the issue is solved.
 
  #17  
Old 09-13-09, 05:26 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the charging system voltage with a good battery be ~14.7 or 14.8 volts when the engine is running???? To me 13.5 sounds low,,,, Do you know if this alternator is controlled by the E.C.U??? Roger
 
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Old 09-13-09, 01:14 PM
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Not sure if this would be the issue. Did the vehicle spill any oil onto the belt? When the alternator went bad on my 95 Jetta, I asked my mechanic to change the serpentine belt at the same time. She mentioned later that it was a good idea since the belt was oily and beat to you know what. It is a brother/sister shop. She runs the business, he fixes the cars.
 
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